foam by the block, my solution for flotation

[salty87]

i'm guessing i kept somewhere around 65-75% of the flotation and kept my drainage. it's not locked into the stringers and hull like it normally would, the blocks all pull out.

test run...50 ml part a + 50ml part b...made well over 3 liters (86 degrees today)

i used trash bags to line the area and some shims of wood that could be removed to make pulling the foam out easier

poured the foam, let it set for about 15 mins, pulled the shims...bags came off easily

some areas need to be trimmed but that's pretty easy with a hand saw

the deck fits pretty tight on most of the foam, it's locked together better than i thought it would be. i going to pour some 2-3" sections in bags to put on top of the exhaust pipes to help muffle it some.

deck soon, carpet is already here waiting...

 

[salty87]

Re: foam by the block, my solution for flotation

i'm bumping this one up since i never got any comments...

this post doesn't explain that there are limber holes through the stringers fore and aft of the engine. the bulkheads allow water to flow forward or back as well.

i did my project outside and it needed drainage. by cranking the trailer all the way up and then all the way down, water is moved to either the foreward or aft drainage and then into the bilge.

the foam can't get saturated this way, it isn't going to sit in water....ever

 

[jcsftwre]

Re: foam by the block, my solution for flotation

Can you please explain more about what you have done for drainage? What did you use and how was it installed if anything?

 

[salty87]

Re: foam by the block, my solution for flotation

sure...thru the stringers i sealed-in pieces of pvc pipe. if you look at the last pic just to the left of the brass water intake..you can see one there. these are on each of the main stringers, fore and aft of the engine compartment. i have a direct drive inboard, the squared-in section of stringer is for the engine. these holes were cut after glassing the stringers and sealed well.

the outter, smaller stringers also have holes. here's the holes at the transom:

there are holes amidships too for the outter stringers.

water flows under/runs off the blocks of foam. other than the holes in the stringers, the rest is just water being allowed to run along the stringers and under the bulkheads.

i can't even tell a difference in noise with the exhaust...it used to be encased in foam. i have a pic of that too...check the port side exhaust pipe and the results of the factory's shoddy job of pouring foam...

when the foam seals itself to the stringers and hull, water collects in every little pocket. the pockets on top of the foam here were still full of water when i pulled the old plywood off.

 

[jonesg]

Re: foam by the block, my solution for flotation

Nice clean job, better than the factory did. !

I'm trying a different approach, being cheap.
My foam is done quite well (Chrysler deep v boat) but its wet next to the stringer.

first pic is bilge, the stringer is removed/broken and laying in the hull bottom, the foam is 18" tall , that would be a lot of foam to replace. I left the glass slot to position the new stringer into. But the glass slot is constantly wet from the wet foam...what to do?

second pic, I cut it back away from the stringers 5 inches (the stringers are being replaced) to allow water to run back to the stern, I'll put limber holes at the back. Already I notice the foam is draining and drying where I cut it.

 

[salty87]

Re: foam by the block, my solution for flotation

mmm...i can almost smell it from here.

bad news though, wet foam will never dry. it has to come out or your new lumber is doomed to an early death. it's easier to work with it out of the way, and you really need to have a clean/dry surface to re-glass. you won't be able to get your grinder in there good.

 

[oops!]

Re: foam by the block, my solution for flotation

jonsey, as salty said....the foam will never dry....ever.....

even if you get the bulk of the moisture out of it.....the second it comes in contact with any moisture....it will suck it up like a sponge!

any contaminated foam has to go......all of it....no exceptions

 

[jonesg]

Re: foam by the block, my solution for flotation

you really need to have a clean/dry surface to re-glass. you won't be able to get your grinder in there good.

its dry already and I've sanded the inner glass with a block....by hand.
I went straight in with the chainsaw 8 inches up and straight across until I felt the hull , so its undercut the foam quite a distance. All the foam was damp when it came out, reaching under there now it feels quite dry, so the foam is staying.

The foam doesn't touch the wood til its almost 8 inches off the hull, it was quite dry at that point, the foam can get as wet as it wants now, as the water has a place to go .

What will be tricky is getting the cloth in there with the foam in the way but I have a way, first bed it into the old glass slot with homemade seacast, after it goes off, bend the stringer back and run tape on the inside joint. Apply matt and resin to inside of stringer and bond it to the foam.

Write me a check for $800 and I'll be happy to do it right, til then, I have no income and I'm doing it as right as I can afford.!