Floor Rivets

[Starman8]

Deciding between screws and/or rivets.

Using 1/2" plywood for the floor. What size rivet? Alum OK?

If screws, what length/size?

Thanks

 

[dozerII]

Re: Floor Rivets

On my 16 SS I used aluminum rivets, with aluminum stems. 3/16 X 1" and they worked good. I think screws would eventually work loose. If you don't already have one look for an air riveter they are pretty cheap and are so much eazier to use than a hand one.
Glen

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Rivets

I understand the 3/16, but is the one inch the rivet length overall or the spacing size(GRIP RANGE)? In addition, using 3/16 warrants what pilot hole size? 1/8th? or 3/16th?

Thanks

 

[dozerII]

Re: Floor Rivets

Th overall length was 1" and you will need a 3/16" bit. I also choose the ones with the large dia. head.

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Rivets

Ok, so I am setting a rivet into 1/2" plywood and into an aluminum stringer/rib, so do I need a grip range longer than 1/2", or not?

Seems most of the HD/Lowes/HF online have 3/16 with a 1/2" grip range.

Are these insufficient? Maybe 5/8" grip?

 

[dozerII]

Re: Floor Rivets

Here is a link to the type I used.
http://www.bylerrivet.com/products/item-details.aspx?mfg=5&cat=354&pid=214

 

[Crazyman1225]

Re: Floor Rivets

No disrespect, but think about what you are asking. Going through 1/2" plywood and into the stringer to secure. Do I use 1/2" inch long rivets? Not really! The rivet will only get you through the plywood and not into the stringer. So, the rivet should be minimal of 3/4", 1" would be better. Easiest way to figure it out, is to add the thickness of all the material that you are fastening together, then go longer to protrude through everything. Hope this helps.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Floor Rivets

^^^^Right. Plus getting rivets with a grip range really close to the thickness of the overall material assumes that the plywood is going to initially lay really flat on the stringers and ribs. That's probably a bad assumption. I had one spot in the rear of mine where the plywood had warped up a bit and it was a b!tch getting it fully attached. If you run into this scenario with rivets, I think a good solution would be to run some deck screws in to tighten everything up, then put in a rivet or two, and then if you desire, replace the deck screws with rivets.

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Rivets

thanks guys, I am a glue and screw guy who never used rivets. I started the floor yesterday and used 3/16 with 3/4 grip range and they are working. Manual tool so 2-3 squeezes per rivet..............sore hand and wrist.

I will use screws for the outside rib connections.

I read a few resto's where some guys added a few lateral supports between the stringers to either tighten up the vessel or build rod/ski lockers.

Wondering if that change in design would stress the hull negatively? I am considering adding one at the first strapping aft where piece 1 and 2 connect as well as where piece 3 and 4 connect.

The first one would provide floor support for the aft deck and the second one is about where the 2 seat bases would be. When you are motoring and rockin in your seats, seems to me the lateral movement of the riders stresses the stringers port to star and star to port.

Any comments?

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: Floor Rivets

I went with a 3/4" deck and believe me, the screws are not going to loosen anytime soon. They were dipped in 3M 5200 before inserting, countersunk, and then coated with another layer of epoxy resin.

This incapsulated the screws to hopefully reduce any possible corrossion issues. Not necessarily the best method, but a pretty good way to go. Time will certainly tell.

I couldn't easily locate rivets long enough to bite thru 3/4" of ply so I opted for the deck screws and the deck tied together nicely.

There shouldn't be much lateral movement with all those rivets/screws clamping it down to the stringers and ribs.

Next time around I will go thru Fastenal since I now have a buddy who works there, since aluminum rivets are best to use for corrosion issues in my opinion.

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Rivets

well, when I inspected the stringers, the ones I needed to fix with rivets were right where the previous owner pulled the jump seats and installed 2 floor bases half-arsed in 3/4 plywood laid over the rotten original floor.

In other words, the plywood was laid onto the old floor and rested on the trim flange of the sidewalls????????????

I am sure the moving floor caused the rivets to break off in those areas.

Thus, the question of bridging the stringers between the front seats for a better "one-piece" floor at that seam with piece #2 and # 3.

 

[dozerII]

Re: Floor Rivets

Where my seat pedastals were mounted I doubled the ply before hand by gluing and screwing a doubler underneath the floor. This gave me zero flex in the floor. I also got rid of the 1/8 aluminum flat pieces they had from the factory to join the floor sections and glued and screwed strips of ply underneath about 4 inches wide to give the joints lots of strength.
Glen

 

[djpeters]

Re: Floor Rivets

Where my seat pedastals were mounted I doubled the ply before hand by gluing and screwing a doubler underneath the floor. This gave me zero flex in the floor. I also got rid of the 1/8 aluminum flat pieces they had from the factory to join the floor sections and glued and screwed strips of ply underneath about 4 inches wide to give the joints lots of strength.
Glen

I like this idea. After you got the floor down, did you then use screws to join the floor sections together? Did you 'glass or epoxy the top and joints afterwards as well?

 

[Pugetsound]

Re: Floor Rivets

Why not run a Aluminum strip about 3 inches wide, length wise on both sides . At least you would have a solid surface to screw or rivet to as close together on the sides as you like??

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Rivets

All great ideas and also thought of them also. Lowe's has reasonable prices on aluminum angle, so I bot a few lengths to fiddle with.

I am going to double the stringer width between sections 1 and 2 and 3(about 9') then rivet the braces(star/port) at those connectors for more "nailing" surface each way.

If this causes the chines or keelribs to implode, tough sheeeeiiiit. I will call Scott at Starcraft anyway because he is hoot to talk construction with.

Anyone want his direct #..............

 

[Pugetsound]

Re: Floor Rivets

All great ideas and also thought of them also. Lowe's has reasonable prices on aluminum angle, so I bot a few lengths to fiddle with.

I am going to double the stringer width between sections 1 and 2 and 3(about 9') then rivet the braces(star/port) at those connectors for more "nailing" surface each way.

If this causes the chines or keelribs to implode, tough sheeeeiiiit. I will call Scott at Starcraft anyway because he is hoot to talk construction with.

Anyone want his direct #..............

Worked for me good luck

 

[dozerII]

Re: Floor Rivets

I like this idea. After you got the floor down, did you then use screws to join the floor sections together? Did you 'glass or epoxy the top and joints afterwards as well?

I used stainless steel screws to join the pieces. Everything was sealed before going in ther boat and I just caulked over the screw heads with 4200. I didn't want aluminum on top of the plywood floor as I used Dekmaster vinyl flooring and everything under it that is above the ply shows. I attched a Thumbnail off the progress, you can see the ply tabs added.

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Rivets

The work looks great!

Planning change. Been in contact with Atwood about their ski tow tripods. After all the options for that as well as an aft deck, closing off the back wall, and creating storage, I feel like a boat builder................lol

So, please comment on the ideas. I am closing off the back wall but will have 2 access panels on piano to the perm gas tank business end and the trim motor. All the juice wires will feed forward into the aft deck where a battery box will be housed starboard with hatch.

The deck will run the entire 60" or so laterally. The aft deck will also have a swiveleze threaded pin base, a cooler, and other storage hatches. Two areas will be doubled up for the skitow clevis'.

 

[Starman8]

Re: Floor Rivets

Floor is in, new(never had) aft deck framed and waiting to be installed, rear wall constructed with access hatches for the PT and fuel tank, plus the back wall can be removed for any replacements, topside painted, then on to the consoles, electrical, and the bow deck modifications.

No pics as this is a rehab and NOT a full restoration. I was 21 in 1979, and I prefer 2010 style, function, and technology. And I also want to stay within budget for this old goat.

 

[djpeters]

Re: Floor Rivets

Floor is in, new(never had) aft deck framed and waiting to be installed, rear wall constructed with access hatches for the PT and fuel tank, plus the back wall can be removed for any replacements, topside painted, then on to the consoles, electrical, and the bow deck modifications.

No pics as this is a rehab and NOT a full restoration. I was 21 in 1979, and I prefer 2010 style, function, and technology. And I also want to stay within budget for this old goat.

Your excuse for no pics is LAME! We can only imagine so much.