Flooded bilge now motor wont start

[Fishermark]

Don't use just any kind of pump to remove fuel from the tank. Your messing with gas and explosions can happen.

Fuel pumps are shielded from sparks and pumps like water pumps are not. We just got to know you and we don't want to be reading about you in the papers or on TV. We have a lot more teasing to do before were done

If you don't have an electric fuel pump use a siphon type pump and hose

I was a little concerned too at first when I read where someone said something about a bilge pump.... As I re-read the posts, I believe the point is to make sure the OP has a good bilge pump on an auto switch to help ensure that the boat doesn't get full of water. NOT to pump the gas out. But yes, it is good to make sure everyone is on the same page on this issue.

Back to the carb - I still think your best best is to take it apart. I'm not talking complete rebuild - simply taking the top off and using a rag to clean out the bowl. That simple. If you don't feel confident doing that, maybe you have a friend who can help. I wouldn't waste money on the additives to absorb water - most are nothing more than alcohol anyway.

 

[Fishermark]

If you do decide to tackle taking the top of the carb off, simply take good notes and some pictures as you go. Here's a mercarb I recently rebuilt. You just take the fuel line off, take out about 8 screws and then the top will come off. There are a couple of linkages that will need to be disconnected, but if you take a good photo or two you can easily put it back the way it is supposed to go.

Here's what the bowl looks like. The chances are good you will find water and sediment at the bottom. Simply clean it out and put it back together. Easy!

 

[DaveG55]

Empty the tank until you are pumping gas only out, then stop. The gas, if it was reasonable fresh is not bad. But if you're really worried then go ahead and pump it all out. I'd not try to dispose of it, what I'd do is mix it half and half with fresh and run it through lawn mower or even my truck. If it is non ethanol gas you're really fine, if it was ethanol fuel then it has absorbed some moisture but it would do that in a marine environment anyway.
I would pull the top of the carb off, it's way, way easier than you fear. Clean out the carb bowl and don't forget to blow out the fuel line and put a new water seperator on.
As for the tank seal, I would make a gasket and use some fuel resistant gasket sealer on it as wwell.

 

[alldodge]

Also the sending unit didn't have a gasket under it just some blue stuff like a make your own gasket, what should i do when i put it back permenantly?

Take a piece of regular writing paper and put it over the tank opening. Trace the opening and punch through the screw holes. Cut the inner circle out and then cut an outside circle on the outside of the screw holes. You can make it bigger then the sender outside diameter. Go to an auto parts store and ask from some cork gasket material. Transfer the paper cutout to the cork material and cut it out. Then punch the screw holes through, use something small like a screw.

Put the gasket on your sender and screw the screws through slightly. Then put the sender back on the tank and secure it down.

 

[Fishermark]

If you do make your own gasket I have found that the little brass rings used in compression fittings make great little tools to make the holes for the bolts / screws. Especially the 1/8" compression rings for nylon lines going to oil pressure gauges. I have a whole drawer with misc compression fitting parts - they come in handy for other uses like this. Simply place the ring where you want the hole and tap it with a hammer. Instant neat, clean, small hole. (Especially useful when you need bigger holes like for 3/8' bolts. Just use the bigger compression rings.)

 

[HT32BSX115]

Howdy,

Don't waste your time making a gasket for the fuel sender. Just go over to West marine and get a gasket. They're only a couple of bucks!

They'll also have new screws. they also might have sealant but with a new gasket, it's really not needed. DON'T over tighten the screws.

Go to Home Depot etc and get a 20' piece of 3/4 clear vinyl hose to use for siphoning. Put a PVC ball-valve on the other end of the hose so you can close it.

fill the hose with fuel and close the valve. have a helper hold the end with the valve and put the suction end in the sender hole (put a piece of PVC pipe on the suction end so you can move it around in the tanks to get it to the lowest corner of the tank)

With the bow "UP", you can easily put the suction end of the hose/pipe into the lowest point in the tank.

All the water and other debris will be "vacuumed" up when your helper opens the valve out at the fuel receptacles on the ground.

If you live on a hill or steep driveway etc, a longer hose will allow you to get more height between the tank and the fuel receptacle you're running the fuel into.

(it's called "head-pressure") as long as you keep the suction end in liquid, you don't lose the siphon and with the ball valve on the other end of the hose makes switching fuel receptacles easy and spill free....

Do this outside, have a fire extinguisher ready and NO SMOKING!!


Cheers,


Rick