First Start of the year and High Oil Pressure

[Trueblue95gt]

Maybe, testing the guage/wiring means abating the sender from the circuit during the test, i.e. grounding/applying 12 volt (+) to the sender wire and reading guage

Your info reads as including the sender as part of testing. Hard to convict the sender when your test doesn't remove the sender during testing

But I narrowed down the signal changing to the output of the wiring from the sender right? If the gauge was bad, it wouldn't have changed output based on changing signal from the sender. Or maybe I'm wrong. I did find out that actual oil pressure is normal.

 

[Trueblue95gt]

But I narrowed down the signal changing to the output of the wiring from the sender right? If the gauge was bad, it wouldn't have changed output based on changing signal from the sender. Or maybe I'm wrong. I did find out that actual oil pressure is normal.

**** I'm getting 240 ohms of resistance from the sensor when testing it. Is that within range?

 

[dubs283]

But I narrowed down the signal changing to the output of the wiring from the sender right?

Not as I read it. See my post #20

The true test is removing the sender from the circuit. You must first test a solid ground, then with confirmed ground test sender wire to guage. This means using a known good ground (both sender ground lead and battery) and known good 12 volt (+) lead.

In your post you say you simply remove and reinstall leads at the sender. This doesn't definitely prove fault of the sender.

As I mentioned earlier, if you're still experiencing an audible alarm when the engine is running you must use a compatible diagnostic tool in order to ascertain the active fault

 

[Trueblue95gt]

Not as I read it. See my post #20

The true test is removing the sender from the circuit. You must first test a solid ground, then with confirmed ground test sender wire to guage. This means using a known good ground (both sender ground lead and battery) and known good 12 volt (+) lead.

In your post you say you simply remove and reinstall leads at the sender. This doesn't definitely prove fault of the sender.

As I mentioned earlier, if you're still experiencing an audible alarm when the engine is running you must use a compatible diagnostic tool in order to ascertain the active fault

I'm not getting the audible alarm anymore. I think it ended up being the drive lube. However, if I take the wire off the sender, I'm getting 0psi on the gauge. If I put it back on the sender, I get 80+ psi. Do I need to ground out the wire to the sender to completely test?

 

[dubs283]

Do I need to ground out the wire to the sender to completely test?

No

You remove the wire(s) from the sender and test accordingly. It helps if you understand how an electrical circuit works. Source, supply, load(s) and return.

To properly test any electrical circuit you must understand not only how it works but also why it works.

 

[Trueblue95gt]

No

You remove the wire(s) from the sender and test accordingly. It helps if you understand how an electrical circuit works. Source, supply, load(s) and return.

To properly test any electrical circuit you must understand not only how it works but also why it works.

While I understand how an electrical circuit works, it's unknown to me how that signal of 12-14v gets manipulated by the ECU and passed to a gauge. Please let me know.

 

[dubs283]

While I understand how an electrical circuit works, it's unknown to me how that signal of 12-14v gets manipulated by the ECU and passed to a gauge.

Depends on the harness/guage wiring. Some vintages of mercruiser used analog and digital readings.

Your picture of s/n indicates mercruiser mpi which decidedly indicates known smartcraft faults when not equipped. Quite common but not an indicator of audible faults.

It's great you no longer have an audible alarm which given your setup means you most likely can operate your engine with little to no worry.

However, as I have mentioned earlier and will again the only way you can ascertain fair witness to previous faults is with a proper diagnostic tool

 

[Trueblue95gt]

Depends on the harness/guage wiring. Some vintages of mercruiser used analog and digital readings.

Your picture of s/n indicates mercruiser mpi which decidedly indicates known smartcraft faults when not equipped. Quite common but not an indicator of audible faults.

It's great you no longer have an audible alarm which given your setup means you most likely can operate your engine with little to no worry.

However, as I have mentioned earlier and will again the only way you can ascertain fair witness to previous faults is with a proper diagnostic tool

Thanks, from a likelihood perspective, would you say it's more likely the sender? I'm not completely sure what the resistance should be at 0 psi but it's 243 ohms.

 

[stresspoint]

if i had to take a guess ????, i would be looking at the gauge or the wires going to it .

 

[Trueblue95gt]

Depends on the harness/guage wiring. Some vintages of mercruiser used analog and digital readings.

Your picture of s/n indicates mercruiser mpi which decidedly indicates known smartcraft faults when not equipped. Quite common but not an indicator of audible faults.

It's great you no longer have an audible alarm which given your setup means you most likely can operate your engine with little to no worry.

However, as I have mentioned earlier and will again the only way you can ascertain fair witness to previous faults is with a proper diagnostic tool

Is there a tool I can buy to check faults on these that's not super expensive?

 

[dubs283]

Is there a tool I can buy to check faults on these that's not super expensive?

Not really. The cheapest option from rinda would probably be the techmate which is $500 or more