First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

[eavega]

So after a lot of CL browsing, and hand wringing about how small underpowered, and outdated my current boat is (see signature), I pulled the trigger on what I think is a real find. Introducing my "new to my family" 1988 Stingray 176 SVB. Boat has a Mercruiser 3.0L (130 HP, I think) with an Alpha I outdrive. This is the first time I have bought a boat that is water ready. I picked it up for $2800, and seller included all the extras he had with it (Bimini top, canvas cover, ski ropes, fenders, anchors, etc). Everything on the boat works (although the fuel gauge only marks from full tank to half tank. I have to investigate that). The boat needs nothing. I could not find a single weak spot on the deck, transom, seats, etc. No tears or gouges on any of the vinyl. There is no abrasions or chips on the hull. About the only thing is that the gelcoat is a little bit faded, but the seller even gave me a bottle of 3M marine rubbing compound to buff out the gelcoat! I had enought time to take one picture of it before it got too dark, but here it is.



So, knowing absolutely nothing about I/O boats, and wanting to stay completely on top of all maintenance, I need recommendations as to what the service schedule is, where I can obtain good reference material, etc. All of my previous experience is with Johnson/Evinrude outboards, and my first purchase after acquiring the motors has always been the OEM manual. I can't seem to find the right manual for this motor, and it looks like I need a separate manual for the motor and for the Alpha I outdrive. Again, any resources you all can point me to would be greatly appreciated.

Rgds

 

[catbones]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Looks real nice and sounds like you did a good job with your search of getting a deal. Doing my own research few weeks ago almost everything I came across either had a soft spot (one but still right) or a tear. Sounds good. Post more pictures. Good luck on finding the manuals, wish I could help but I'm new to all of this stuff and I've got an outboard to be looking after

Nice boat you got there for sure.

 

[Susquehanna Squid]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Looks like you did well. The motor is 130 horse and you really should have no problem finding a manual. It is one of the most common engines used ever. Same goes for the outdrive. You can start by checking out Iboats website! Though this site is great for info and reference, it also has a great selection of parts etc. Make sure you check the bellows. Depending on the service history, it may need replaced (very common). I would replace all of the oil in the engine and the drive, make sure your hydro trim cylinders are lubed, maybe some plugs, wires, and points if it still uses them. You should also check the fuel filter and add new fuel. I like to run Seafoam through my boat every few fuel-ups or so as well. Other than that, any local service shop can help you out. Good luck!

 

[CILO]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Congrats Man!

Nice to see another 80's Stingray owner on the boards. She looks beautiful

 

[Chris1956]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

It looks like the original seats, which means it was well protected from the elements. Was it a freshwater boat? Check the drive belts, driveshaft and shift cable bellows, gear lube, engine oil, fuel filter, anodes, PTT fluid, etc.

If the boat is all freshwater, the exhaust manifold and riser are probably still good. If it has seen saltwater, you might pull the manny and riser and look them over.

Change the waterpump impeller and inspect the water hoses. See if the thermostat operated properly.

 

[eavega]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Yup, this boat never saw salt water. It lived the majority of its life in a lake house shed. The last two years it has lived in a carport. Supposedly (and the condition of this boat bears this out) the boat came out of the shed two or three times a year when the previous owner's grandkids came to visit the lake house, and was used exclusively for pulling them around on tubes. He moved away from the lake house and took the boat with him, thinking he could tow it to the nearest lake when he got the urge. Well, the grandkids don't visit as much, and when they do, they didn't want to make the 2 hr trip to his closest lake. After having the boat de-winterized this year he realized he didn't want to pay to have it winterized and de-winterized every year to just use it once or twice (he had taken it out only once this year), so he decided to sell it.
So, when you say "Check the bellows", what am I looking for? worn, cracked?
Would I be better off getting a real mechanic to do a full-on inspection of the condition of the motor and outdrive, or are all these checks something that can be done with relative ease? I'm not afraid of turning a wrench, but there comes a point where spending two days taking things apart and putting them back together is more expensive than a few hours of labor and parts from a mechanic.

Rgds

 

[capecodtodd]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

it loks like you got a nice deal on that boat and the trailer looks in nice shape as well. I have a 1998 20' Stingray with a 3.0 I/O and it is a decent enough engine. It is was actually the go to engine for several manufacturers when they had to power a affordable boat. you will like the gas mileage the 3.0 will give you, depending on what you do of course ie pulling a tube or just putting around. Doing water sports like skis, wakeboard, kneeboard I can get 6-8 hours before fill ups. This depends on your tank size though.
One trouble spot I found out the hard way on the 3.0 was the water pump was starting to drip and I should have replaced it right away because the leaking water came to rest on the timing cover and it wasn't until that started weeping oil from the pinhole leaks the rust caused I replaced it. It wasn't easy and about $500 later I had it back together. I do have a manual. You might want to check it.
Speaking of manuals you should be able to find one it is a very popular engine. I'm surprised the original owner didn't have it. maybe call him before he finds it and throws it out. If I had the money it would be nice to have a mechanic go through the engine and outdrive checking the bellows and water pump impeller etc..
happy boating
Todd

 

[Susquehanna Squid]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

If you have a little "walking around money" definately take it to a mechanic. Especially because it has sat for so long.

 

[BF]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

congrat's on the buy... I'm on my 3rd season with my I/O... a 1990 Searay with 3.0 mercruiser. Mine was also a boat house queen, but the outdrive sounded dry (growled a bit) when running so first thing I did was pull the outdrive... I replaced the gimbal bearing which seemed a bit worn, but didn't change the U-joints... they seemed fine, just in need of greasing. I also changed the impeller.

Unless you're looking to spend $$, I would skip the mechanic "check over" and get the manual and figure out how to pull the outdrive yourself. It's not that hard. It needs to be pulled to grease the U-joints, so you should learn how to do it. Aside from the manual, you'll also need (minimally) an outdrive gasket kit and a can of merc "perfect seal" to R&R the out drive. An alignment tool would probably be a good thing to have, pretty much essential if you're replacing the gimbal bearing.... I bodged one together.

Aside from the first work I did on it when I got it, I've pulled the drive on mine each fall to grease & inspect... just a month ago the original lower shift cable let go, so I had to pull the drive again to replace that (a 2 evening job). The lower shift cable on those drives are supposedly not the greatest, so if your shifting starts to feel mushy, that's probably the cause. The replacement cable (genuine mercruiser part) is more robust. Oh, and winterizing these is an easy job... so no need to pay someone.

 

[BF]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

I forgot to mention... go into the iBoats Mercruiser I/O forum and look at the "adults only" locked thread at the top (don't be scared). Read away....

 

[eavega]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Folks, thanks for the replies. I am so antsy to get this on the water! So, a quick question. I finally got a copy of the work order detailing the last work don on this boat. The previous owner did have it de-winterized (commissioned) for the season, and included a carb service as a line item. Would there still be concerns that this boat isn't water ready right now? I ask because I am running out of time this week to get stuff inspected, and I won't be able to get to it in time to get on the water this weekend. Thoughts?

I have already ordered my own copy of the motor manual, and am looking to get the outdrive manual. easier than trying to work the online copy. I suppose I should order a drive alignment tool, too. Are the $40 ones I see on ebay sufficient?

Rgds

 

[oldjeep]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Thoughts? Put the muffs on, start it up in the driveway - if it runs and stays at operating temp then put it in the lake and go for a spin. I swear that some of the guys on here disassemble their boats completly before each time out

 

[eavega]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Thoughts? Put the muffs on, start it up in the driveway - if it runs and stays at operating temp

Done.

 

[emoney]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Check your fluids, THEN put it on the muffs and afterwards, take it to the lake. Probably wouldn't hurt to put the batts on a charger overnight before you go.

Oh, also, after it's on the muffs, shoot a temp and make sure she's cooling off the way she's supposed to. If she does and the oil & lower unit fluid doesn't look like chocolate milk, then have a great time. The most difficult thing in the world, however, is to NOT take it out if something shows up. Good luck.

 

[palace]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Stay away from the Seloc and Clymer manuals way to generalized. Check ebay you may find a complete service manual set. Does not sound like you went for a test drive. Take it out on the water and run it with the engine cover off to spot any leaks and listen for strange noises. You can also see how the carb is running. If you have points bring a dwell meter and check that along with the timing. It wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and inspect them. Then do a compression test, making sure to write the numbers down. This will be useful information down the road.. Enjoy most of all!!!! and Welcome aboard!

it loks like you got a nice deal on that boat and the trailer looks in nice shape as well. I have a 1998 20' Stingray with a 3.0 I/O and it is a decent enough engine. It is was actually the go to engine for several manufacturers when they had to power a affordable boat. you will like the gas mileage the 3.0 will give you, depending on what you do of course ie pulling a tube or just putting around. Doing water sports like skis, wakeboard, kneeboard I can get 6-8 hours before fill ups. This depends on your tank size though.
One trouble spot I found out the hard way on the 3.0 was the water pump was starting to drip and I should have replaced it right away because the leaking water came to rest on the timing cover and it wasn't until that started weeping oil from the pinhole leaks the rust caused I replaced it. It wasn't easy and about $500 later I had it back together. I do have a manual. You might want to check it.
Speaking of manuals you should be able to find one it is a very popular engine. I'm surprised the original owner didn't have it. maybe call him before he finds it and throws it out. If I had the money it would be nice to have a mechanic go through the engine and outdrive checking the bellows and water pump impeller etc..
happy boating
Todd

 

[eavega]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Check your fluids, THEN put it on the muffs and afterwards, take it to the lake. Probably wouldn't hurt to put the batts on a charger overnight before you go.

Also done

Oh, also, after it's on the muffs, shoot a temp and make sure she's cooling off the way she's supposed to. If she does and the oil & lower unit fluid doesn't look like chocolate milk, then have a great time. The most difficult thing in the world, however, is to NOT take it out if something shows up. Good luck.

LU oil is dark, but not milky at all. I suspect its only been used once since it was changed out. Definitely no signs of water incursion. I will re-check the temp with my pistol thermometer. Good point, no sense in simply relying on the instrument panel, since I don't know the reliability.

I'm intending that this boat last a long time, so I will make sure that it is as water-ready as I know how to make it.

Thanks again for the advice.

rgds

 

[eavega]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Stay away from the Seloc and Clymer manuals way to generalized. Check ebay you may find a complete service manual set.

Nope, got the Manual #10 off of e-bay. Should be here next week. I am kicking around the idea of getting #6 which also covers the outdrive, but I don't want to go crazy spending just after having dropped the cash for the boat. That one will keep.

Does not sound like you went for a test drive. Take it out on the water and run it with the engine cover off to spot any leaks and listen for strange noises. You can also see how the carb is running. It wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and inspect them. Then do a compression test, making sure to write the numbers down.

Correct, I did not get a lake test, HOWEVER, we did start it and run it on flushette, shifted gears forwards and reverse, I pulled all the plugs and did a compression test on all four cylinders, 125 PSI ~ but even. Plugs had a nice even tan color.

If you have points bring a dwell meter and check that along with the timing.

Now you finally got me. Dwell Meter? Oh well, Google Is Your Friend...

Rgds

 

[BF]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

If it runs on muffs, and you know it was gone over at the beginning of the season, I don't see any reason why you shouldn't be good to go. I was gonna say make sure gear oil is full (use real mercruiser lower unit oil... it's synthetic and probably has an easier time passing through the smallish oil passage up to out drive the mid section)... engine oil is full, and watch the engine temp... I think the hose pressure when on the muffs can mask a poorly performing impeller. So it might not heat up on the hose, but could on the lake.

And no, I don't think it needs to be disassembled/inspected before every trip, but I knew when I bought my boat from asking the previous owner that he had never had the out drive pulled in the time he owned the boat. So even though it ran "fine"... it was WAAAY overdue for a U-joint greasing. That's supposed to be an annual thing. My boat was very very slightly used as well (a few hours per season), that's probably why the u-joints didn't need replacing, even though they were starving for grease. Oh, and even though mine cooled OK on the lake, I found 1 vane on the impeller was broken off when I replaced it. Temp shouldn't go much over 140 degrees.

Consider this weekend more of a "shake down" cruise than a weekend of hard boating. Sounds like there's not too much to be nervous about, just don't put off the required maintenance forever. Oh, and if possible, try not to start or run the boat with the out drive tilted up into the "trailer" range. You can run them at idle for short periods of time to get out of shallow water, but running them at extreme tilt is bad for the u-joints. You didn't have to consider that with an outboard.

PS: you'll probably love how the new boat handles compared to the trihull!!

 

[Chris1956]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Eric, That '88 should have a breakerless ignition. No need to "Dwell" on it. Tilt up the outdrive and look at the driveshaft and shiftshaft bellows. If you see deep cracks, you need to have them replaced. You can do it yourself, but it is a PIA. If the bellows look OK, run the baby.... Take it a bit slow until you are sure everything is operating properly. Watch the temp gauge, as you do not know when the waterpump was last serviced. Depending on what kind of damage to the bellows, the motor can overheat at idle and be fine at speed or vice-versa.

I always used a Seloc or a Clymer (forget which). It was reasonable, contrary to popular belief.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: First I/O boat! Think I got a deal...

Sorry, I had a bad work in my last post. It should have said. "Watch the temp gauge, as you do not know when the waterpump was last serviced. Depending on what kind of damage to the IMPELLER, the motor can overheat at idle and be fine at speed or vice-versa."