Finally building an outdoor kitchen .May need some idea's /help .

nurseman

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Couldn't you just add some additional rebar into the top so that it supports the overhang? I was never a concrete guy, but just a thought...
 

gm280

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Sam, 12" to 14" over hang is pushing it a bit. Concrete gets really heavy quick. And with that much overhang, you better weld in some serious support to keep it in place and not on anybody's laps. Pick up a standard 2" thick square walking step at the home improvement stores and see how just one piece can weigh and then think an entire top with such weight. Maybe you could use some 1 1/2" steel angle welded to the main structure with another section welded on at those ends on the outside before the pour. Then all the concrete would cover over it and you'd never see the angle iron, but it would offer a lot of support if solidly attached to the main section. Maybe even over hang on the inside to help balance the cantilevered outside weigh. I honestly don't have any "concrete" ideas other then that. Just opinions and not intelligent proven ideas. :noidea:
 

sphelps

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It will overhang around 4" on the inside and I plan on adding some corbels on the front ... That's why I framed the glass block inset as far down as I did ...
 

kcassells

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Probably let it hang out the front 12 to 14 inches ... I was thinking maybe use 3/4" ply then screw 1/4" backer board over that to give the concrete something to stick to ... idk
Also been looking at stains .. Not sure if I want to acid stain or use dye ... Seems like a lot of different products out there .

1/8" steel.........For that kinda overhang and the concrete your using.
 

gm280

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Sam, I do have to say, that this can't be your first time working with such materials. It honestly looks great. Especially that subtle arch in the front. Adds so much to the entire setup. I have to keep watching and learning. These forums are amazing at the things a person can see. read and learn. :thumb:
 

sphelps

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Ok after standing and looking at it a while I think I have a plan ... maybe .. I'm not so much concerned about the top cracking ... I will add plenty of metal reinforcement in the slab ... The main concern is the weight of the overhang ... Take into consideration it is on a slight radius and that will help plus the end of the bar will wrap around giving it even more counter balance .. So really we need to just keep it from sagging or dropping down on the front edge ...
What I can do is basically add anchors that will tie to the full height vertical 16 gauge structural studs ... I will drill through the top track and base ,probably 3/4 ply and dura rock , and will stick up into the concrete ... I can then tie a continuous rebar to those anchors ... Those will be on 16" centers ... Then I can tie short pieces of rebar to that . That will stick out to form the over hang .... I really think that would be good and strong .
i could go the 1/8" steel route but that would need to be cut on a radius and tied to the structure kind of the same way ... Unfortunately my top track is only 20 ga metal So it will need a little beefing up for support ..
 

sphelps

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Sam, I do have to say, that this can't be your first time working with such materials. :

Been doing this type work for 32 years ...Although for the last 10 to 15 years I mostly watch my crew do the work . I just make sure they do it right .. The framing is the easy part ...
 

redneck joe

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If you look at the pic i posted the crack did not occor on the overhang but the overall field was probably 32" we did stucco mesh but for that size i think it was too small id do rebar
 

jbcurt00

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Sam, dont forget to also add kicker legs down to the floor under the overhang. Even w minimal water, the workable concrete will be much heavier then the dried slab.

Else anchors et al sounds like you've got a handle on it.

nice work
 

sphelps

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Good point jb ... Thanks Decker !
Not too much progress this weekend .. Had to work Saturday and nearly froze to death ... Actually had some snow flakes coming down .. :eek:
Did get the plywood installed inside part of the cabinets .. I need to pic up another sheet or two ...
Been looking online at edge molding .... There pretty proud of those ... around 40 bucks for an 8 ' piece of the textured stone look ...
I'm trying to think of a way to make my own that would look nice .. I may try the the place we get our foam stucco bands from ... They can cut pretty much any profile and size that I want fairly cheap ....
 

sphelps

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Played around with some mud today .... I picked up some of the color pigment they sell at H/D ... Buff,red ,and charcoal .... Mixed a little up with water of each and put them in spray bottles ... Just kind of sprinkled it on the surface while the mud was still wet ...

This was the same sample trying to kinda make darker veins ...

The only problem is it will need to be done while still a bit damp so the colors run together ... I'm interested in seeing what it looks like after it cures ..
I had an idea on making the edging ... I formed up a little sample section ... As you can see it will have a square top edge with an inside radius rope look to the bottom ... Kinda hard to tell in the pic but I used silicon to fill in the corners on half of the sample and nothing on the other half ... I got brave and took the front form off . I'll take the rest of the form and rope off tomorrow to see how it turned out ..

I know I could buy preformed edging but what fun would that be ? :noidea:
Besides I'm what you would call a CSOB ... :D
 

gm280

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Sam, you could use a router and shape some wood with the edge profile and then wax the wood form and use it to make your contour edge. Just remember it will be the opposite of what you form in the wood. Otherwise, you can make basically anything you could imagine. Just an idea. :noidea:
 

sphelps

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Test how deep the color penrtrated

I'm thinking not far enough .... I took one small sample and tried to trowel it smoother .. It just smeared together and looked like a red clay tile .. :facepalm:
I have another one that I will let sit for a few days ... I think without sealer it will just wash off ...
Gm , the router sounds like a good plan ... Unless I buy the expensive counter top mix they sell I think I'm gunna have to keep the edge somewhat simple ...
The rocks in the 5000 lbs strength bags from the box store are pretty large ..
I think I will order some sample acid stain to try out ..
 

Volphin

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:popcorn: I love this thread! Just can't let the wife see it! haha!
 

kcassells

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I'm thinking not far enough .... I took one small sample and tried to trowel it smoother .. It just smeared together and looked like a red clay tile .. :facepalm:
I have another one that I will let sit for a few days ... I think without sealer it will just wash off ...
Gm , the router sounds like a good plan ... Unless I buy the expensive counter top mix they sell I think I'm gunna have to keep the edge somewhat simple ...
The rocks in the 5000 lbs strength bags from the box store are pretty large ..
I think I will order some sample acid stain to try out ..


Make a sifter to remove the larger rocks and continue till you get the density you like without the lumps. Just dinkin.
 

sphelps

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Kc that might be a good idea ... At least around the edges ... Fill it first then fill the rest with regular mix ...
Been tough finding time with work to get anything done but a little progress has been made .. I have also been dealing with a bum swollen right knee ...
Doctors got me on some anti-inflammatory pills to try and get the swelling down ...
I have most of the base plywood installed ..



I picked up a left over black Friday fridge from H/D for half price ... The height is mighty tight ..
Even tighter when I install the floor tile ... I have my eye on some nice looking Tavertine tile that I may use on the cabinets ...
I really need to get the tops poured .. From what I understand it needs to cure for 3 or 4 weeks before acid stain ..... I have plenty of stuff that I can do waiting on the cure ...
 
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