Fast Turns With A I/O

[QC]

Re: Fast Turns With A I/O

I did consider posting in the engine section, but figured whilst it is related, it's more to do with use of the boat as a whole.

I agree that this thread is in the right place. I post notes like that so others see the logic we try and apply. Have fun tomorrow!!!

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Fast Turns With A I/O

As so many discussions here show, there are very few hard rules about boating (such as put the plug in before launching). Motors (esp. outboards) can take a lot of abuse even though an owner wouldn't intentionally put them through the abuse, unless there was a good reason. I mean, if you drill down on it, it's not good for a boat to drive around on bumpy water; stuff shakes loose. Of course you're going to do it anyway--unless you have a 1930's vintage restored mahagony run-about.

Yamaha 2 strokes are designed so that you can run them at idle speed with no oil in the gas. Good to know in an emergency with no tow option. Anyone going to do it intentionally? No. Is the dealer wrong when he says "never run the motor without oil?" In context, no. Technically, yes.

So in this case the dealer was explaining a soft spot and a manuever to be avoided. The posters here have explained a solid basis for his advice. The buyer has to decide whether being able to make that manuever frequently is critical to his choice of boats. Good information to know; just has to be used correctly.

What I love about these forums is compling in my head these bits of advice to evaluate how to operate, or what to buy, or what matters or not. We've seen newbies here freak out over hitting a sandbar, and fretting over whether they have ruined their boat forever. Bumping bottom can be a frequent occurence in some circles, and yet we motor on. Wouldn't (couldn't) own a boat that couldn't take it.

 

[QC]

Re: Fast Turns With A I/O

I love a good compling

 

[themaniam1]

Re: Fast Turns With A I/O

Hull design, duel or single prop also add a lot to turning and handling. What is high speed to one person is not to another. I love a nice tight turn in my current boat and hated them in my last boat, it cavitated so I didn't turn tight at higher speeds (also a relative measure). I think each boat style will handle differently and wear differently.

I will continue to turn "sharp" (relative to my boat) when I want. I do not expect my 24' cruiser to handle like a PWC but I still have fun while turning. Will I crank the wheel while doing 40 mph? Not if I don't have to but maybe in a different boat. I think you will be able to tell what speed and turns puts more strain your boat then others and can make your choices accordingly.

 

[haulnazz15]

Re: Fast Turns With A I/O

For 15+ years, we have been making tight turns after a skier/tuber falls off at roughly 3K rpms in order to get back to the swimmer quickly/safely. The pre-alpha drive has never had the u-joints replaced (700+hours) and we don't hear any abnormal noises.

Sure, we don't turn it fully lock to lock at WOT, but a tight turn does not hurt anything on the gimbal bearing/u-joints when done at normal speeds. The only time we limit rpms is when we have the drive trimmed up a lot, which is rare and usually only during trailering operations. I seriously doubt anyone is going to damage an I/O by turning too sharply at cruise RPM's or lower.

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Fast Turns With A I/O

when I drop a tuber/skier I cut my speed first, turn, then resume speed--I get a sharper turn that way adn if you time it right you can pop back up on a plane (never get off all the way). Unless it's someone I don't like then I might go fish for a while or back to the house for a nap in the hammock.

 

[livin4real]

Re: Fast Turns With A I/O

I guess I will be replacing mine then, as I whip my little Stingray around when pulling tubes, as well as when picking up skiers. Sometimes a little more throttle at the perfect time in the turn really get the boat a turning.

If you decide to go through with replacing your gimbal bearing you need to go ahead and replace your bellows as well while it's tore apart. And if you aren't doing it yourself be advised it's a costly job as the outdrive and bellhousing has to be removed along with the bellows to get to it (hence replacing the bellows while it's tore down). Most dealers around here charge around $600-$800 for a bellows and gimbal bearing replacement, that's why I learned how to do it myself lol.