evinrude spark issue

[catfishcarl99]

1980 evinrude 115 v4. the old time base was showing open on one lead with multimeter. replaced it. replaced stator while i had flywheel off. the coils are brand new less than a month. Today i got 2 new power packs in. just put them on. the entire ignition is new. not new used but new never installed. cdi timer and stator. cdi coils and seirra packs. i have no spark on top right side bottom on left. stator tests 599 on both leads in ohms resistance. normal is 450 to 600. the timer is getting 30-32 ohms on both the blue and green wires when ohmed to the white and 60's green to blue. both sides. normal. so they test fine. somewhere between there to plug wire im loosing two cylinders with all new components. any advise?

 

[tblshur]

Might try swapping plug and wire from one that is firing ever coil and power pack also it is easy to get the orange coil wires reversed check compression

 

[catfishcarl99]

compression is 118 almost exact on all cylinders. found out that one of the power packs was defective. the old one fired on both new on only one. so with the good old one and one good new one i have spark on all clyinders. the root problem i have found is only cylinder 1 and 3 are working. the other side runs cold. the carbs are throwing fuel on all 4 jets and unburned fuel and oul come from the exaust but that sides not running. i can run the engine on 1 and 3 with 2 and 4 plug wires off. then when i pull 1 and 3 and attach 2 and 4 it wont fire at all. plugs i just put them in . they have fuel on them but that side wont run. ??

 

[catfishcarl99]

oh and first time out this spring it ran great full power. then since 1/2 power. the one side just aint running.

 

[catfishcarl99]

Starting new thread for correct title. Ok so heres my issue. checked compression. 118 in all 4. new timer base new stator new coils and packs new rectifier. I have spark on all 4 and the spark jumps good and bright over 1/2 inch. port side cylinders 2 and 4 are not running. It did first trip out this season. we got it last fall and it ran ok but when we took it out first trip clearly it had double the HP. then back to 1/2 power next trip. They seem to be getting gas to the cylinders plugs are wet and the plug hole will shoot fire when i put a lighter to it. the side runs cool head doesnt heat up and the thermostat port exit pumps semi warm water while the starboard runs out hot. last time out when i set timing i could see all 4 carb jets spraying consistent and theres unburned fuel/oil in prop exhaust. 1980 115 e115tlcsa. when i pull plug wires on 2 and 4 while running there is no change in rpms or sound.

 

[catfishcarl99]

started new thread one of the packs i got new was not firing on one cylinder my old "still good one did" i have spark on all now its another issue.

 

[GA_Boater]

started new thread one of the packs i got new was not firing on one cylinder my old "still good one did" i have spark on all now its another issue.

Continue with this thread.

 

[catfishcarl99]

ok. basically one power pack was bad. put on the old one that worked. so with the new and the old that worked i have all 4 getting good spark that will jump to ground over 3/4" . compression cold cranking is 115ish on all 4 give or take 1or 2 lbs. all very close. the starboard side is running both cylinders. the port neither. both have spark both plugs seem to be wet with fuel after running but when i remove either port wire while running there is no rpm difference. the thermostat port runs luke warm while starboard comes out hot. the port isnt detonating. i got the boat last fall and it ran ok we thought. but first trip out this spring it doubled in performance. next trip out 1/2 power again. timing is set to 28degrees. i cannot figure out what would cause the 2 port cylinders to be failing with decent compression
and spark. and when i was on the water setting timing after replacing firing base i seen all 4 carb jets at WOT spraying fuel consistantly.

 

[greggilo]

Starting new thread for correct title. Ok so heres my issue. checked compression. 118 in all 4. new timer base new stator new coils and packs new rectifier. I have spark on all 4 and the spark jumps good and bright over 1/2 inch. port side cylinders 2 and 4 are not running. It did first trip out this season. we got it last fall and it ran ok but when we took it out first trip clearly it had double the HP. then back to 1/2 power next trip. They seem to be getting gas to the cylinders plugs are wet and the plug hole will shoot fire when i put a lighter to it. the side runs cool head doesnt heat up and the thermostat port exit pumps semi warm water while the starboard runs out hot. last time out when i set timing i could see all 4 carb jets spraying consistent and theres unburned fuel/oil in prop exhaust. 1980 115 e115tlcsa. when i pull plug wires on 2 and 4 while running there is no change in rpms or sound.

I just solved a similar issue where the engine would run fine WOT until I shut it off for awhile and restart. It would lose one or two cylinders. I turned out that my stator seemed to die if it heats up. If I left the boat sit for awhile longer the motor would run fine. It never showed any problems with the diagnostic tests. Replaced the stator and it runs fine.

 

[catfishcarl99]

I just solved a similar issue where the engine would run fine WOT until I shut it off for awhile and restart. It would lose one or two cylinders. I turned out that my stator seemed to die if it heats up. If I left the boat sit for awhile longer the motor would run fine. It never showed any problems with the diagnostic tests. Replaced the stator and it runs fine.

problem is, i just replaced the stator rectifier and timer base within the past 2 weeks. the 4 coils a month ago. and power packs today. ignition system is new. these cylinders wont run at all. cold or hot.

 

[greggilo]

problem is, i just replaced the stator rectifier and timer base within the past 2 weeks. the 4 coils a month ago. and power packs today. ignition system is new. these cylinders wont run at all. cold or hot.

Just to let you know I had new power packs and coils put in mine and already have had one coil and a power pack go out. Always good to recheck things.

 

[CaptnKingfisher]

Well this is one of those "I got spark, compression and fuel but won't start" issues. So I hope you don't get offended by this question. When youre testing for compression, are you remembering to press the relief valve on your tester between each cylinder? I find it strange that your compression data is exactly the same across all 4 cylinders.

If you are doing the compression test correctly, I would suggest getting a loaner compression tester from your local autoparts store to double-check your own gauge. You're seeing spark jump 3/4" consistently with your own eyes, you're seeing fuel spray into the carbs and yet strangely you've got two dead cylinders. Makes me suspicious of your compression testing procedure or or your compression tester tool.

Are the spark plugs new too? Are they the correct ones for the engine and gapped correctly?

Last thought, pull all the spark plugs and crank the engine for 15 second intervals, let the starter cool off for a moment, then do it 2 more times. Then put the plugs back in, hook em up and see if that helped

 

[catfishcarl99]

yes the

Well this is one of those "I got spark, compression and fuel but won't start" issues. So I hope you don't get offended by this question. When youre testing for compression, are you remembering to press the relief valve on your tester between each cylinder? I find it strange that your compression data is exactly the same across all 4 cylinders.

If you are doing the compression test correctly, I would suggest getting a loaner compression tester from your local autoparts store to double-check your own gauge. You're seeing spark jump 3/4" consistently with your own eyes, you're seeing fuel spray into the carbs and yet strangely you've got two dead cylinders. Makes me suspicious of your compression testing procedure or or your compression tester tool.

Are the spark plugs new too? Are they the correct ones for the engine and gapped correctly?

Last thought, pull all the spark plugs and crank the engine for 15 second intervals, let the starter cool off for a moment, then do it 2 more times. Then put the plugs back in, hook em up and see if that helped

compression tester is good. i did relief it between each cylinder. plugs are brand new. when i rebuilt my chrysler 2 years ago the same tester read 150 148 150 on the 3 cylinders after rebuild. all 4 have between 110 115ish compression. when we went out to test and set timing i used 9 gallons of fuel in a couple hrs. i can see the unburned oil fuel out of the prop exhaust on the muffs.

and i went through all 4 plug wires with the spark tester 3-4 times today to make sure i had spark. and did. just no combustion.

 

[Faztbullet]

Make sure ignition wire to 2 & 4 are correct , if swapped motor will do as you posted.

 

[catfishcarl99]

Make sure ignition wire to 2 & 4 are correct , if swapped motor will do as you posted.

i swapped the coil wires yesterday. and started it. got a few backfires. pretty sure thats not the case. and this was happening before i put the new coils on it. plus that first trip this spring when it ran great and doubled the speed.

 

[catfishcarl99]

so i went today and got a screw in compression tester from the parts store. mine was a gauge with a rubber nipple thats pressed into the plug hole. so i figured i would do a test with a better one to rule it out. and much to my happiness they are better. starting with cylinder 1 and so on. 120 120 120 119.

 

[catfishcarl99]

my old push on tester was showing around 110 115 ish on all 4. this was cold cranking i should do a warm up test tomorrow but 2-4 really never get to operating temp. but warm up some from the other side.

 

[catfishcarl99]

also re did a spark check after compression test. all 4 have bright blue spark. 1 and 3 are on old power pack and running 2 and 4 are on a new pack. so im wondering about possible flooding cause the plugs are always wet after i pull them. i had a force 50 that would drop a cylinder after about 5 min of WOT a few years back and eventually from the help of jerryjerry on here it was the bottom screen in the recirc plate that was totally blocked with carbon and was not allowing the access fuel/oil to be sucked out and kept flooding bottom cylinder. and after sitting a while it would run fine again for 5 min or so and loose power again. but this one just stays at 1/2 power. or looking to the reed valves for blockage corrosion ect. it seems to be sucking through fuel just fine its just not burning.

 

[oldboat1]

must use an open air adjustable spark tester, not the inline type. The engine has to turn over at 250+ rpm to fire up the engine. You may have a weak battery or a starter that needs to be cleaned/rebuilt.

 

[tblshur]

as in post #2 swap 1&3 spark plugs plug wires power packs coils and wires may help good luck with the 2&4 that are not running