Eska 7.5 14038A 1977 no spark

bobd254

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Hi folks ,
I bought an eska 7.5 '77. It has electronic ignition.
It doesnt have any spark.
I saw the thread on replacing the coil with a sierra 18-5176, and did this.
Still no spark.
Maybe the coil's not the problem and maybe it's the wrong coil.
I see there is another coil next to the ignition module , anyone know what the resistnce of this should be?
Any suggestions on where to go from here?
I tried to upload a picture , but no success,
Thanks,
Bob
 

guy48065

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The Eska solid state ignitions are their Achilles heel. Parts are no longer available and good used parts are going for big bucks.
The charging coil & ignition module are part of the ignition plate and were never available separately.

Screenshot_20230821_151230.jpg
 

bobd254

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When testing componants, any idea what voltage to expect from the charging coil and the low tension lead?. Or how to test the trigger system.
Thanks,
Bob
 

guy48065

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Not really. My approach is to eliminate the easy stuff:
Check the spark coil resistance.
Check connections.
Make sure kill wire isn't shorted.

If that's ok the only thing left that affects spark is the ignition plate ass'y.

I'd love to know of an alternative to that trigger module.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Find out which lawnmower flywheel you can swap out on the motor and run the magneto ignition from a lawnmower
 

bobd254

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find a timing plate with points and condensers
I've got a 5HP '71 that I checked to see if Icould swap.
The mounting screws to the head are spaced differently, and interestingly , when both motors were set to TDC , the flywheel key was about 120 deg different , eventhough the magnets on the flywheels were the same angle from the key.
I'll be on the lookout for a points /condenser set up from a 7.5.
Thanks.
 

guy48065

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Lawnmowers don't have a rotating ignition plate that varies the timing. No link & sync.
Have you actually heard of such a swap?
 

Scott Danforth

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The eska motors were Tecumseh lawnmower motors that they took and attempted to get a wider range of RPM out of them by adjusting the spark timing. Same motor on a kart will be spinning 8000 RPM with static timing. Same motor works on other Tecumseh powerheads on outboards without changing spark timing.
 

bobd254

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I recently got a little two channel osciloscope that I'm just learning to use. When hooked up to the primary trigger system (wire going to the coil), it shows a nice waveform , looks like about 100 volts. After plugging the coil back in - there is no voltage/waveform at either the primary or on the secondary (at the plug). That's with a new coil of about 650 ohms. My guess is the weak part may be the that the capacitors in the trgger system can't store enough charge when connected to a load.
One of the threads talked about taking the trigger apart and replacing the capacitors. At this point I cant lose anything by trying that.

My frined tells me there is a small engine repair shop near that keeps a good graveyard of spare parts - so I'll be checking it out to see if he has a poiunts condenser set up .

I'll try both angles.
 

brim_buster

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There are some videos on the web that show some folks fixing them for this purpose.
 

guy48065

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I have 3 of these 7.5hp Eskas. One has always run, another ran when I bought it but quit when I ran it at home. Timing plate fixed that one. I have another replacement timing plate for the 3rd but haven't gotten around to that project.
I guess that officially makes me a masochist.
They're shitty little buggers but you won't find a cheaper, more powerful ultra-light motor.

Don't ever leave the oars at home.
 

bobd254

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I have 3 of these 7.5hp Eskas. One has always run, another ran when I bought it but quit when I ran it at home. Timing plate fixed that one. I have another replacement timing plate for the 3rd but haven't gotten around to that project.
I guess that officially makes me a masochist.
They're shitty little buggers but you won't find a cheaper, more powerful ultra-light motor.

Don't ever leave the oars at home.
I watched a video on replacing the capacitor in the ignition module. Looked simple enough, just had to cut off the cover , cut one attachment from the old capacitor, and then lay a new capacitor on top and solder it in.
As you can see in the first video, I cut too much away and cut some of the soldered connections. I tried to resolder them and now I'll have to retest to see if the trigger is still working , if that parts OK, then just wait for the new capacitor to come in from china.
 

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guy48065

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I'll probably try this repair soon if I don't run out of summer weather. Right now I have 3 ignition plates on my bench. 2 supposedly work, one I've marked "BAD"--probably the one from Eska #2 that quit right after I brought it home. I have had to wait several months for one of these plates to show up on eBay for the $20-$30 I'm willing to pay. Most are listed for $100 and more. Nope, not worth that.

I've lost the website I used years ago on how to repair that trigger module but this one covers the same ground:
Same one that is guiding you?

IMG_20230829_205340.jpg
Only one doesn't run. My original Gamefisher is the bare-bones version with no cowlings and a plain steering handle w separate throttle lever.


20230829_205047.jpg
 
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bobd254

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I'll probably try this repair soon if I don't run out of summer weather. Right now I have 3 ignition plates on my bench. 2 supposedly work, one I've marked "BAD"--probably the one from Eska #2 that quit right after I brought it home. I have had to wait several months for one of these plates to show up on eBay for the $20-$30 I'm willing to pay. Most are listed for $100 and more. Nope, not worth that.

I've lost the website I used years ago on how to repair that trigger module but this one covers the same ground:
Same one that is guiding you?

View attachment 388381
Only one doesn't run. My original Gamefisher is the bare-bones version with no cowlings and a plain steering handle w separate throttle lever.


View attachment 388382
That was a great reference you shared. I didnt use that one, I used a video by Ed Stoler on youtube
.
I had to go back and resolder one of the connections I thought I'd fixed. I think I've got it back to where it was before I butchered it. Now I'll wait to get the capacitor in . I saw that the article you sent me the link to, showed adding a diode, I'll have to see if I need to do that .
 

guy48065

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Just wanted to point out that the webpage I linked is also Ed Stoller.
One of the commenters I've read on the YouTube of this repair said he replaced the trigger module with a Nova or Atom solid state ignition module that's meant to replace points ignition. I've been wondering if that would work. I'd love to know more about this option--like what supplies the timing trigger since the trigger coil is INSIDE the Tecumseh module.
 

bobd254

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Just wanted to point out that the webpage I linked is also Ed Stoller.
One of the commenters I've read on the YouTube of this repair said he replaced the trigger module with a Nova or Atom solid state ignition module that's meant to replace points ignition. I've been wondering if that would work. I'd love to know more about this option--like what supplies the timing trigger since the trigger coil is INSIDE the Tecumseh module.
There may be a timing issue issue also, . I compared my 5 HP points eska to the 7.5 SSI. The flywheel is exatly the same, keyway in same position, but with both motors at TDC the keyway on the shaft is about 120 deg off from the points 5 HP motor. When I was thinking of replacing the SSI plate with a points plate I'm not sure how to compensate for this . I guess you could grind in another keyway ....
 
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