Epoxy question.

[Lectro88]

A long winded question... With several forks and bumps in the road.

I have been reading here and many other places, and no real answer found...
(if there is A answer)
I don't really expect a cut and dry answer.
As every application is different, products are different. weather and locations are different.

**How long will epoxy coated wood last ?**

I keep hearing water "WILL" get in. AND I keep seeing that..

Have been kinda experimenting or playing to see how things do before I try and do structural glass work over wood.
Letting boards lay out in rain and be exposed to weather.(after coated)
So far looks like only sun would cause a problem. UV break down, cracking.
I also have wooden stands I have built and epoxy coated that just stay and sit outside.
NOW, here again these are out in the open, and allowed to dry, Not like being in the belly of a vessel possibly exposed to 24/7 moisture.

Just for information.
I have 4 different brands of Epoxies.
Each probably having their own specialty.

*Total Boat Penetrating 1.5gallon
*Total Boat 5:1 6gallons
*MarineGuard 8000 2gallons
*Fasco LVX103 3gallons(low viscosity) not used any yet.
All of these seem to be top shelf names. if that even matters..
My glass work I planned to use T.B. 5;1
Then by I accident found the Fasco and liked its versatility and strength.
And that company was very informative and helpful.
then I wanted to find a cheaper epoxy for non-boat or less critical applications.
Marine8000
This company was good too.
Was Highly impressed with this product, especially for money. again after experimentation..
Now also the folks at JamesTown were great as well. So I am pleased with all epoxy I have on hand.
Now I would not mix these over 1 or the other uncured. but feel confident to coat my boards with 8000 and after time and surface prep, glass over with T.B. or Fasco.
This is the process I'm leaning towards.

My process is, several coats, sanded, washed and let dry between coats.(amine blush precaution)
Then... It will get several coats fiberglass.. same as above, sanded, washed,dry
No nails, screws or penetrations in wood... If unavoidable, potted.

Just seems to me, that this would be a 1 and done thing. For moisture protection.
But.
I have tore 2 boats apart now and see that water does somehow get in.

Thinking about this while writing.
Things that could come into play.
it may only start after a screw is introduced and not potting. (10 yrs after a build new owner adds something simple, some bracket or a new seat..)
Or flexing and eventually stress fractures in coating allows a breach. over time.
I may be over thinking this. Or I could be completely wrong in the science of it all.
Condensation.. from inside out due to temp. changes. If this is in the mix.. You can't build that out, using wood products no matter the quality of products or process.

Then again, there may be some answers given to this question that may help many future projects.

My gut guess, in my work and process, provided nobody drives a nail or screw in my work.
20yrs or more.
Yes? No? Maybe?

A wondering, wandering, mind question

As Always, thanks in advance.
This has been a great place for knowledge and help.

 

[Chris1956]

All 2 part epoxy resin is waterproof. Water will only get in thru a defect in the coating. For items that flex, a layer of fiberglass cloth will help keep it waterproof. Epoxy needs protection from the sun.

Most wood sealing can be done with polyester resin. It is fine for above waterline use, and most boats are composed entirely of it, plus the appropriate fiberglass cloth.

Spar polyurethane is also very good for wood sealing. It is very sun resistant, and almost as good at sealing as polyester resin. If exposed to the sun, you can easily recoat it every few years.

 

[Lectro88]

Thank you Chris.
So that information puts me in better shape than I had thought.

My concerns are the stringers and transom.
All of these are under deck or covered from sun exposure.
So if my workmanship is of good quality.
This restoration will outlast me.

Thank you much.

 

[Chris1956]

Polyester resin and cloth are fine for most repairs, like the ones you are doing. If you are patching a sizeable hole in the hull, I would grind the hole to feather the glass and then do a repair from both sides at the same time (if possible), using epoxy and the appropriate glass product. paint or fair and gelcoat for color and sun protection.

 

[racerone]

One solution is to use composite materials.------There are many choices to be found.-------Easy to search for on-line.----I am working on a project and there will be no wood in transom , floor , deck support and stringers.

 

[Lectro88]

Thanks Racerone.
The composite is great Idea.
I checked about cosa board for transom... But with freight charges it was going to be over... well more than I was going to spend at this time with a total rebuild and motors and list goes on..

In my situation. I have already stockpiled enough 1X's and 2X's to do 6 projects easy... then re-do them again just for kicks and fun.
I have had a bad habit(20+yrs) of buying cull pack lumber, stuff I can cut out, or lap joint and keep on going.

The way I plan to coat/seal everything prior to bedding into place.
I think is going to do just fine.

 

[Lowlysubaruguy]

Be sure to drill any holes out large enough to work epoxy into them before installing any screws fasteners etc. use a q tip or bristle brush like a gun bore cleaner to work it through smaller holes, water gets in and can’t get out this is where the majority of your future rot will start.
work the epoxy into your wood with force especially if it’s curing fast. Slower curing epoxy will soak in deeper as well.