Engine Coupler questions.

[achris]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

What did I do wrong here? I thought I had this sucker shifted into forward?

Most likely you moved the prop in a CW direction. This pushes the drive back into neutral and rotates the shift shaft. Did you by chance have trouble getting the drive all the way back on and then wound it in using the nuts on the bell housing? That would have flicked the lower shift shaft across, and pressure applied will have bent the shaft quite badly. The that is why the seal is leaking. I would be pulling that drive off and REPLACING the shift shaft and seal. Actually I'd be checking a whole lot more than that, as you might have also twisted the shift crank... Did you look in the stickies section of the forums and read all the good info (and watch the videos) before attempting this?

Chris.......

 

[Downforce6]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

Did you by chance have trouble getting the drive all the way back on and then wound it in using the nuts on the bell housing? :blue:

I would be pulling that drive off and REPLACING the shift shaft and seal I'll go buy them tomorrow, or order them if they don't have them.

I watched videos of, I think you. On utube as referenced earlier in the thread. Yes I turned the prop counterclockwise to line the splines up, I guess I got confused. Counter,anti, forward, reverse? I also didn't connect the two.. I thought I was just lining up the splines. I overlooked the shiftshaft.

I realize when you have done many, even myself, in hindsight, it seems obvious. But it was the first one I ever removed and installed. Bet I don't do that again. I thought the thing was tight because of the new seals on the splines.

I'm draining the oil as we speak.

I'm going to have to seperate these correct? Should I just leave the upper connected to the boat? The upper "looks" fine..

 

[achris]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

You definitely need to split the drive to replace the seal and shaft. As for leaving the drive shaft housing on the bell housing? As a first-timer, may I suggest you take it off the make sure you get all the tubes and shafts lined up without damaging anything more... It will also give you a chance to check and see if you also bent the upper shift shaft....

And before you pull the seal and shaft, put the gear housing in forward, and use a length of bungy to hold it there so it doesn't get bumped out of forward. You need it to be in forward to fit the new lower shift shaft. And the lower shift shaft needs to be pointing straight forward in forward...

Chris....

 

[Downforce6]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

Thanks, easy to see you can do these in your sleep so I'm going to do it exactly as you tell me because I also know what one of these cost. I want it to be right, and I want to learn how to do it.

Is there another set of seals/gaskets I will need to buy because i'm seperating the units?

I also have the luxury of a good set of people at Putmans boats in Columbia Mo. They are very helpful and have parts in stock.

I agree, I need to take the whole thing off so I can inspect.

I saw the alignment tools there, may as well grab one.

I out for the night, but thanks again for all the help.

 

[achris]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

...Is there another set of seals/gaskets I will need to buy because I'm separating the units?....

No, as long as the quad ring (small seal around the oil galley between the drive-shaft housing and the gear housing) is in good condition, it's reusable....

 

[Downforce6]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

Well so much for the parts in stock.. The lower shift shaft and bushing assembly (i just got the whole thing rather than just the seal, I read some on another thread and seemed like the way to go) will be in on Wednesday.

$100 mistake. or, I guess we can call the price of an education.

The engine alignment tool was $180!!!!! I realize that isn't much compared to the price of a new outdrive but I just didn't have that to dish out for it.. I also think I can surely do better.. I have always thought the prices were pretty fair there but this one seems a bit much. The owner told me mercrusier was pretty proud of their tools and he said it cost him 20K a year to be a dealer/service for them. No idea if he is exatterating. He seems like a nice guy tho and has been very helpful to the novice boat owner (myself). It will pay off for him because I am absolutley in love with boating.

I've got some other work I want to do before memorial day splash, so I guess the leak will have to wait till next week. I'm going to go ahead and get it back apart tho and get the strain off it. Think I will try to look for a used engine alighnment tool.

 

[bspeth]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

Get your alignment tool from ebay,think it was 50. or so.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

Available on Amazon for $26.

 

[Downforce6]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

Is this the right one? Engine Drive Alignment Bar Tool for Mercruiser P N 91 805475A1 and 91 57797A3 | eBay

 

[dannys2004glastron175mx]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

Is this the right one? Engine Drive Alignment Bar Tool for Mercruiser P N 91 805475A1 and 91 57797A3 | eBay

yeah its the right one , I got one the same it works perfect

 

[Downforce6]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

thanks

Still ended up $45 after shipping..... but I can live with that.

 

[MikDee]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

Engine coupler Info, & Pix:
http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser-i-o-inboard-engines-outdrives/engine-coupler-461864.html

 

[pyrotek]

Re: Engine Coupler questions.

Before you go removing the outdrive to grease the splinters make sure your coupler doesn't gave a zerk fitting to grease. Mine has two 180 degrees apart. Have to turn over engine a few quick times to get them lined up to the top to access. Not sure if all couplers have these.

 

[Downforce6]

Believe I got this done.

At least I sure hope so, doesn't appear to be leaking anywhere.