Engine Coupler - How to test?

[Allmand]

I have a 1968 GM 250 inline 6 160HP....with a pre-alpha out drive.

I heat an oyster reef and the bellhousing broke at the pins and the drive shaft slipped out...upon further inspection I cant beleive the drive shaft could even spin with the looks of the Gimbal bearing....completely rusted. Anyway, so I have a new bellhousing, going to replace the u-joints, bearing, bellows, o-rings, shift cable, etc. but I am not sure how to tell if I need to change the engine coupler.

The boat is 43 years old and I have a feeling its never been changed given the condition of the rest of the outdrive. I never smelled any burning rubber or heard squeling but have a feeling if the gimbal bearing looks like it does I may need to go ahead and replace the coupler while i'm at it.

Possibly an important FYI - the splines on the drive shart look perfect...no points or chips, bends, or wear. Not sure if that helps

However, this is already going to be enough work...do engine couplers go out after a while? Are they designed to last 40 + years? Would you go ahead and just replace it anyway?

Not sure what to do....dont want have to pull the motor and all that crap if I dont have too.

Any help is appreciated...

Allmand

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Engine Coupler - How to test?

Howdy,


I had a 1966 Mark Twain that my Dad bought new. It had a 150 Mercruiser installed and the coupler failed in about 2004.

They don't cost all that much money. If you've already replaced nearly everything else and your yoke and splines are not worn (I might even replace the splined shaft too if there's even the slightest question)..........Since you have it all apart and the engine out, just replace the coupler.

Carefully check the engine mount point in front for rot so you know it will stay in alignment.......but replace the coupler...after 43 years, it's time.


Regards,


Rick

 

[45Auto]

Re: Engine Coupler - How to test?

Rick, he DOES NOT have the engine out - he's asking whether he needs to take it out and replace the coupler or not.

I wouldn't pull the engine just to replace the coupler as preventive maintenance. If you had it out for any other reason already, I agree with Rick, go ahead and replace the coupler if it's that old.

 

[Lyle29464]

Re: Engine Coupler - How to test?

He is replacing the flywheel cover. I would change the coupler

 

[Bondo]

Re: Engine Coupler - How to test?

Would you go ahead and just replace it anyway?

Ayuh,.... I'd clean it up, 'n LOOK at it before deciding anything...

If the splines still have wide square shoulders, 'n the rubber is in Pristine condition,...

I'd probably Run it....

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Engine Coupler - How to test?

Anyway, so I have a new bellhousing,

You may be right. he might not have the engine out. "Bellhousing" probably means bell housing in the transom mount (not flywheel housing)...

But I think if I had a 43 year old coupler and I was doing big replacements I'd go the next step, pull the engine and replace the coupler....yeah I'd LOOK pretty close at it.......but not through the gimbal mount. When mine failed (in the 66 boat) it looked like it was drilled out with a drillpress! It's so easy to pull one of those 6cyl engines........I'd pull it just to get a better look at the coupler!


It's the beginning of Summer......my 40 year old coupler failed in the middle of Summer..... I wouldn't want to be doing anything but boating for the next 3 months!

 

[cr2k]

Re: Engine Coupler - How to test?

HT32BSX115 Where do you find them to not be expensive? They run about $250.

 

[HT32BSX115]

Re: Engine Coupler - How to test?

HT32BSX115 Where do you find them to not be expensive? They run about $250.

Well for my 454 Bravo, they're quite expensive.....



But........... I donno....how about here? http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MAL9-72502&ptype=&Engine=&Model=

About $150.

Or here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0YG291NRNQ9ZJ102YKGF

About $125

I know the above is a Sierra but that's what I put in my old boat........works good and lasts a long time!!

 

[picklenjim]

Re: Engine Coupler - How to test?

As Bond-o said.

 

[45Auto]

Re: Engine Coupler - How to test?

He is replacing the flywheel cover. I would change the coupler

Seems to be some confusion over which bellhousing the OP is referring to.

The OP hit an oysterbed and the "bellhousing" broke at the pins. He also states that he doesn't want to pull the motor to replace the coupler if he doesn't have to. Kind of hard to replace the motor bellhousing (flywheel cover) without removing the motor.

My interpretation of his post is that he broke the pins on the OUTDRIVE bellhousing. Some people call it the outdrive "helmet", Mercruiser refers to it as the bellhousing.

 

[Allmand]

Re: Engine Coupler - How to test?

Yes, I broke the OUTDRIVE pins on te bellhousing/helmet, or the alluminum was so old and brittle after years of hits here and there the metal broke around the pins. Either way. I bought and new bell housing for it. Getting a new bellows kit with gimbal bearing. Apparently it isnt very hard to pull an inline 6 cyl. so I will go ahead and do that to check the coupler. IF thats the only way to inspect it.

So look for cracks in the rubber and the condition of the splines in the coupler correct? If rubber and splines look good, run it? The bellhousing just arrived yesterday so I will take the gimbal ring out and and go from there. I do not think I need to replace the splinned shaft as the splines look perfect and squared. I am replacing the U-joints of course.