Engine alignment ,just got the tool. Pics posted

alldodge

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In most cases yes the motor is in a slight twist
Do look real close and the splines on the coupler. They need to be square no taper of the corners
 

nola mike

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ok thanks so front meaning side where ps pump and belts are.....
yes.

and what do you make of the no spline marks on the port side? One of the 2 mounts need to be moved down more than the other??
Adjust fore/aft and see what happens. There isn't a port/sbd adjustment. Check rear mounts to make sure they aren't collapsed. Possible that one side is higher than another, but short of suspending motor with front mounts disconnected, I don't think you can check that. I chased port/sbd alignment on mine for a long time (it was like that when I bought the boat, and continued after swapping engine) without resolution. IMO the ease of insertion is *much* more important than witness marks (the object is to not have an angular/rotational strain on the coupler). Again, on my boat I can get a significant change on ease of insertion without much change on the witness marks.
 

flashback

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If you can lay your hands on a bore scope you can get a good look at the condition of the coupler.
 

crazy charlie

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If you can lay your hands on a bore scope you can get a good look at the condition of the coupler.
I will ask the tech coming to adjust the motor for me if he has a scope.Im thinking the coupler is ok since the boatyard said that they have to switch the coupler in the replacement motor to the coupler from by bad motor.Both 5.0 but the bad one was an 88 and the new to me motor is 2003 but who knows.Charlie
 

04fxdwgi25

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ok thanks so front meaning side where ps pump and belts are.....and what do you make of the no spline marks on the port side? One of the 2 mounts need to be moved down more than the other??
the up / down on the mounts should be done equally. There may be some issue with the rear mounts, but if there is on yours, it would be very slight, looking at the witness marks.

I think once your top / bottom witness marks are good, the sides will clear up, too. Remember, 2 fingers to push all the way in and you will be golden..
 
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alldodge

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The mounts should be done equally only if they are equal to begin with. If one was turned more then the other then the twist starts.

If unsure, with boat seating level and both top nuts loose. Lift motor up slightly by the thermostat housing bolts so the mounts are not touching the bottom nuts. Bring the bottom nuts up just so they contact the mount.

Lower motor down and now they should be turned equally
 

crazy charlie

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Thanks guys but now I am really confused because I did the tool test again but much more carefully. Got tool seated correctly and tapped with my hand on rear and sides of tool and sloooowly and carefully pulled tool out and spline marks looked much more even all the way around.I think I was bumping the tool on something near the gimbal bearing while pulling tool out because no friction mark this time. NOW IM CONFUSED. Gonna have someone with way more experience check it out.Was really hoping it needed alignment to correct the vibration.Charlie
 

alldodge

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It's I doubt the vibration is caused by misalignment

Getting no marks means the coupler is shot (Doubtful because boat was moving), or your not getting it actually into the coupler

Take something long and skinny (stick, dowl rod, other), put it the bottom of the coupler and mark the end of it at the face of the bell housing. Do same with alignment bar and see if they are close to same. The bar won't go in as far but should be close
 

nola mike

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It's I doubt the vibration is caused by misalignment

Getting no marks means the coupler is shot (Doubtful because boat was moving), or your not getting it actually into the coupler
I think he's getting spline marks, his "friction marks" are where the grease is wiped clean. Don't overthink it. Again, the important part is ease of insertion. The marks guide you as to which direction you're off if insertion is difficult. If you don't insert/remove the bar straight you can wipe the grease on the way in/out.
 

crazy charlie

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It's I doubt the vibration is caused by misalignment

Getting no marks means the coupler is shot (Doubtful because boat was moving), or your not getting it actually into the coupler

Take something long and skinny (stick, dowl rod, other), put it the bottom of the coupler and mark the end of it at the face of the bell housing. Do same with alignment bar and see if they are close to same. The bar won't go in as far but should be close
Im getting spine marks however when I did test more carefully and removing the bar sloooolwy,the spline marks were pretty uniform.My previous attempt I believe this very heavy tool dropped a bit while pulling it out as soon as it exited the coupler and the weight in my hand transferred from the coupler to my hands and then might have bumped the gimbal bearing.Will try broomstick measuring.Also this is only a $20 tool off Ebay probably not as long as it should be but who knows.Charlie
 

nola mike

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Im getting spine marks however when I did test more carefully and removing the bar sloooolwy,the spline marks were pretty uniform.My previous attempt I believe this very heavy tool dropped a bit while pulling it out as soon as it exited the coupler and the weight in my hand transferred from the coupler to my hands and then might have bumped the gimbal bearing.Will try broomstick measuring.Also this is only a $20 tool off Ebay probably not as long as it should be but who knows.Charlie
Easy to measure, but people in general have had good luck with the eBay tools
 

alldodge

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Im getting spine marks however when I did test more carefully and removing the bar sloooolwy,the spline marks were pretty uniform.My previous attempt I believe this very heavy tool dropped a bit while pulling it out as soon as it exited the coupler and the weight in my hand transferred from the coupler to my hands and then might have bumped the gimbal bearing.Will try broomstick measuring.Also this is only a $20 tool off Ebay probably not as long as it should be but who knows.Charlie
What I'm understanding now is your probably good to go

Mine only cost about $20 so no issue with the cost, only if it was made correctly. Having uniform marks is a good sign
 

Lou C

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If you get a really bright led inspection light & shine it in the bellows you can see the internal splines in the coupler; they should be squared off not rounded off. You have a vib since this engine was installed correct? I’m thinking of other sources….engine flywheel? Harmonic balancer? Loose/worn engine mounts? Could the engine be misfiring, running roughly etc? The first thing I’d do is do a complete tune up. Cap, rotor, plugs, ohm out plug wires, check for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold….carb adjustment?
Do you get a vib if you run the engine with the drive off? This can be done with a water hose stuck in the water intake in the transom mount.
 

crazy charlie

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If you get a really bright led inspection light & shine it in the bellows you can see the internal splines in the coupler; they should be squared off not rounded off. You have a vib since this engine was installed correct? I’m thinking of other sources….engine flywheel? Harmonic balancer? Loose/worn engine mounts? Could the engine be misfiring, running roughly etc? The first thing I’d do is do a complete tune up. Cap, rotor, plugs, ohm out plug wires, check for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold….carb adjustment?
Do you get a vib if you run the engine with the drive off? This can be done with a water hose stuck in the water intake in the transom mount.
Yes never had any vibration until engine was replaced.Engine runs and idles perfectly.Starts immediately,extremely fresh looking motor .I checked it out thoroughly when it was sitting in the boatyards shop prior to purchase.Vibration only when drive is engaged and bumped up to above idle speed and higher..BTW I have a great attachment to the bell housing to connect garden hose to for running without the drive installed, you gotta get one. Charlie
 

dubs283

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Based on your posted findings I'd say the engine alignment isn't the cause of the vibration and is most likely okay.

Being as the boat came from a shop and the issue arose right after the repair first item I'd check is the firing order along with condition/quality of tune up parts.

Next would be fuel system inspection
 

crazy charlie

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Based on your posted findings I'd say the engine alignment isn't the cause of the vibration and is most likely okay.

Being as the boat came from a shop and the issue arose right after the repair first item I'd check is the firing order along with condition/quality of tune up parts.

Next would be fuel system inspection
Nah,it starts and runs too well for that to be the issue but I am always in for new parts so maybe some new tune up parts but not expecting it to run any different .Charlie
 

04fxdwgi25

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I wouldn't discount the ignition system / injectors (if you have them) as too many solved mysterious vibration / rough operation have been problems with either of these.

All was perfect before the engine replacement? If so, then has to be engine or else something, besides engine, was damaged or messed up during the replacement.

Perhaps u-joints are loose? Bent input or output shaft? Bent / out of balance prop? Engine coupler on flywheel loose?

Are you getting the vibration when in gear on the hard / on trailer or in the water?
 
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dubs283

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Nah,it starts and runs too well for that to be the issue
Right?

And here I thought the engine didn't run well, or at least there's a vibration under load

Something as simple as #5 and #7 plug leads being swapped can have the same effect you're describing. Especially on a twin setup with one engine 100% sound makes any slight issue with the other engine easily noticeable, even exaggerated.

I'm not saying that the issue lies in the ignition system but it is something you can check rather easily. Your other thread states the replaced engine has good, even compression numbers. Have you verified the compression? Timing? Carburetor adjustment? On your new, twenty year old engine?

Repair shops employ humans to perform tasks and humans make mistakes. Rarely are the mistakes intentional but they do happen. I've seen it and been guilty of it myself, but if you're confident there's no issue with the engine without verification then I guess the matter is settled. Good luck with locating the source of the issue
 

crazy charlie

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I wouldn't discount the ignition system / injectors (if you have them) as too many solved mysterious vibration / rough operation have been problems with either of these.

All was perfect before the engine replacement? If so, then has to be engine or else something, besides engine, was damaged or messed up during the replacement.

Perhaps u-joints are loose? Bent input or output shaft? Bent / out of balance prop? Engine coupler on flywheel loose?

Are you getting the vibration when in gear on the hard / on trailer or in the water?
Vibration is only when in gear and bumped just above idle speed.Charlie
 

Lou C

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It would be interesting to crank the engine over (ignition & fuel sys disabled) with the drive off looking thru the gimble bearing to see if the coupler spins true….
 
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