Engine Alignment Almost There

[BobMaio]

I have an alignment question on my 4.3L with Alpha 1 Gen 2 Outdrive. But first some background. The boat is a 2000 Sea Ray with the original Transom and Outdrive. The engine was replaced before I bought the boat with a complete 2009 4.3L. Since I have owned the boat I could never do a satisfactory job of alignment because the front mounts could not be lowered enough. So this fall I decided to tackle the problem and discovered that Mercruiser changed the rear engine mounts in 2003. Service Bulletin 2003-11. They no longer use the double lock washer (spring) and the bushing has a longer center sleeve. So today I removed the rear mounts and verified that I do in fact have the new style bell housing with the new style bushing. I also discovered that the Marina that installed the engine did not install the washer that now replaces the spring. Today I replaced the fiber washer, installed the SS washer per the Service Bulletin and now have plenty of travel on the front mounts. I did the alignment per the manual and can now insert the alignment bar with just 1 thumb. However, if I rotate the engine in quadrants, the alignment bar becomes harder to insert. It goes in but takes more force than the single thumb. I feel like I am finally in the ballpark but need to know if this is normal or if there are other adjustments that I need to make. Any help and suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[alldodge]

can now insert the alignment bar with just 1 thumb. However, if I rotate the engine in quadrants, the alignment bar becomes harder to insert.

Since it was installed incorrectly at first, I would guess the coupler has developed a set. Have 2 options, change things so you can find the least resistance with this coupler, or replace it

 

[BobMaio]

Since it was installed incorrectly at first, I would guess the coupler has developed a set. Have 2 options, change things so you can find the least resistance with this coupler, or replace it

Thanks for your comment. Looks like I am going to live with it. The splines in the coupler appear to be OK so I can't justify replacing the coupler at this time. When the couplers zerk fitting is at 1:00 the alignment bar goes in with thumb pressure. At 7:00, I need to push it in with hand pressure. But it still goes in. When I remove or install the drive, I will need to rotate the engine so that the zerk is at the 1:00 position. And when the coupler goes really bad, then I will replace it.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Hope it doesn't go out when you're in a difficult spot... that kind of stuff seems to fail at the most inopportune times.

 

[BobMaio]

Hope it doesn't go out when you're in a difficult spot... that kind of stuff seems to fail at the most inopportune times.

Yes, me too! But I feel that the drive was out of alignment for 10 years and now its closer to alignment than it has ever been, then I would probably be OK for a while. When I inspected the splines with a scope they looked good which surprised me. My garage is tied up this winter with another project so I have no choice.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

You should be fine, and who knows, the coupler may relax over time. Obviously this is something you’ll want to monitor every year. I pull my drive every year to check alignment, gimbal bearing, bellows, etc.