Engine alarm won’t stop

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Jeff J

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Jun 23, 2021
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I have a 2015 Volvo Penta V8 275 that we can’t get the check engine alarm to quit. The previous manager hauled it to the shop where they said it is throwing a misfire code. They changed the spark plugs and sent it back but the alarm still sounds. Reports from the renters is that the alarm varies from constant to sounding every few minutes. When I test drove it it was constant. Motor sounds good and makes good power. Preventive maintenance on these rental boats is suspect. I pulled an oil filter the other day that was dated 5/27/2020. This particular boat had the lower unit oil changed in the shop and I did the engine oil about 5 hours ago. I need some ideas for what to check or how to rest the alarm. I am getting close to seeking out the wire to the alarm with a pair of cutters. Thanks!
 

Andy1962us

Cadet
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I believe a misfire code could also mean there is a problem in the distributer or the spark plug wires. I recommend you replace the cap ,rotor and plug wires then have the codes cleared. I hope this helps
 

Nashville

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I have a 2015 Volvo Penta V8 275 that we can’t get the check engine alarm to quit. The previous manager hauled it to the shop where they said it is throwing a misfire code. They changed the spark plugs and sent it back but the alarm still sounds. Reports from the renters is that the alarm varies from constant to sounding every few minutes. When I test drove it it was constant. Motor sounds good and makes good power. Preventive maintenance on these rental boats is suspect. I pulled an oil filter the other day that was dated 5/27/2020. This particular boat had the lower unit oil changed in the shop and I did the engine oil about 5 hours ago. I need some ideas for what to check or how to rest the alarm. I am getting close to seeking out the wire to the alarm with a pair of cutters. Thanks!
Please post serial number or complete model number so the motor can be identified correctly and help provided. For a 2015, the model number takes the form V8-___-___-___ or 5.0___-___-___ for example. If the alarm is constant as described, that’s low oil pressure. Suggest not cutting the wires. Suggest starting with the premise the alarm(s) is(are) valid and ruling possibilities in/out from there. These motors are expensive, around $12,000 plus labor. Cutting wires and assuming a faulty sensor often ends with motor replacement. You might have been venting, and if so, sorry for jumping on it. Seen too many unnecessary motor replacements this year.
 

cptbill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Oct 6, 2012
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^^ yea I don't think a miss fire is setting off alarms, that's usually oil pressure or temp. and then there's the high water alarm. Had that before when the alarm float broke
 

Jeff J

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Jun 23, 2021
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sorry about the delay, been dealing with other boat problems. I changed the rotor and cap on this one and the alarm went from constant to once per minute (service alarm?). The old rotor was worn out and loose on the screws so I suspect that was the misfire code.

The top cover is missing from the engine so I do not have exact engine info unless the serial number can be found elsewhere. I believe the engine to be a V8-270-C-B because I was told the other 2015 Cobalt has the same engine.
 

Nashville

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sorry about the delay, been dealing with other boat problems. I changed the rotor and cap on this one and the alarm went from constant to once per minute (service alarm?). The old rotor was worn out and loose on the screws so I suspect that was the misfire code.

The top cover is missing from the engine so I do not have exact engine info unless the serial number can be found elsewhere. I believe the engine to be a V8-270-C-B because I was told the other 2015 Cobalt has the same engine.
The constant alarm is not related to the cap and rotor; it’s low oil pressure. The one beep a minute is, generally with this “vintage”, high (but minor) exhaust temperature. If the motor is the same as the other boat, please post its serial number and I’ll confirm later tonight (working on the house today). Thank you.
 

Jeff J

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Jun 23, 2021
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Here is the tag from the other one:
 

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Bt Doctur

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If all else fails, silence the alarm and wait for the results. Something will show up or happen
 

Jeff J

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I can’t run the boat for a couple of days but I don’t recall the oil pressure being low the last time I ran it. It has a digital display that I usually step through to check things when on a test ride.

if I knew how to silence the alarm I would. I did find a reference to a lower unit oil change alarm that can only be reset out of the water. The shop changed the lower unit oil but I don’t know if they reset the alarm or if this boat even has it. No available trailers and a boat ramp 3 miles from the dock complicates my life a bit.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Your serial number tag is in the side of the block just above the starter

Use a mechanical gauge to check oil pressure

Us an IR thermometer to verify temp
 

Nashville

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I can’t run the boat for a couple of days but I don’t recall the oil pressure being low the last time I ran it. It has a digital display that I usually step through to check things when on a test ride.

if I knew how to silence the alarm I would. I did find a reference to a lower unit oil change alarm that can only be reset out of the water. The shop changed the lower unit oil but I don’t know if they reset the alarm or if this boat even has it. No available trailers and a boat ramp 3 miles from the dock complicates my life a bit.
The original shield and drive, unless changed to something else, is an TSK and SX-A, single prop. Not equipped with an “oil change alarm” or any other alarm. The alarm you refer to is available on the OceanX drive. The two OceanX alarms are described in your manual (water in bellows, and water in oil/low drive oil), but don’t apply to a TSK and SX-A.

From the top, with key on and engine off, your set-up, if functioning properly, emits three short beeps. This is the self check being performed. If nothing following, there are no active codes or faults.

Your set-up has three primary alarms; low oil pressure, high engine coolant temperature and high exhaust temperature. Secondary alarms are emissions related. Then, depending on your gauge package, there might be user set/adjustable water depth and fuel (each separate from engine alarms).

The only constant alarm is low oil pressure. This could result from not enough oil, too much oil, wrong oil or high engine temperature. The alarm for high engine temperature is either a beep about every 1/2 second or once per second (severe). The alarm for high exhaust temperature is the same.

Secondary alarms can be one and done or a periodic beep. These are accompanied a check engine message (depending on gauge package), or engine outline illuminated or circle with triangle illuminated if equipped with the VP engine status panel.

Given these motors are catalyzed, either a visit from a qualified technician equipped with Vodia, or if independent, Diacom and the correct pigtail, so the ECM can be scanned, codes/history reviewed, data collected and tests performed. An alternative, if you have a laptop, interest and time, purchase Diacom from Rinda Technologies and post the data files here so they can be reviewed and further help provided.
 

Jeff J

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Could be too much oil. I have found more than one of the boats over serviced. This boat in particular was above the full mark when I started extracting oil the other day. Unfortunately, my extractor pump quit pumping after removing a quart and I didn’t catch that it had only removed a quart until after I had dumped 3 quarts in. Hence the reason I cannot run the boat…I am waiting for my new pump to arrive so I can finish the oil change.

I don’t have any manuals for these things. I download what I can and ordered a service manual for a Suzuki DF250 that the carrier delivered to the wrong address a month ago (still waiting for the claim to pay to order another). I cannot afford to buy all of the different manuals and code readers I should have for this gig. 14 boats with at least 8 different motors. The help here is greatly appreciated.
 

Nashville

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Sep 3, 2012
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Could be too much oil. I have found more than one of the boats over serviced. This boat in particular was above the full mark when I started extracting oil the other day. Unfortunately, my extractor pump quit pumping after removing a quart and I didn’t catch that it had only removed a quart until after I had dumped 3 quarts in. Hence the reason I cannot run the boat…I am waiting for my new pump to arrive so I can finish the oil change.

I don’t have any manuals for these things. I download what I can and ordered a service manual for a Suzuki DF250 that the carrier delivered to the wrong address a month ago (still waiting for the claim to pay to order another). I cannot afford to buy all of the different manuals and code readers I should have for this gig. 14 boats with at least 8 different motors. The help here is greatly appreciated.
If engine and drive manual are needed, PM an email. If gauge is needed, post a picture of the multifunction unit and overall cluster so it can be identified. Most likely a link can be posted. I’ve never looked at Cobalt’s web, but they might have a manual online as well. Typically, boat manufacturer (manual) content is generic/non-existent when it comes to the engine and drive but sometimes have other good information about the gauge/gauge cluster, etc. With that fleet and service apparently hard to arrange, you’ll likely be $ ahead with Diacom (about $1,000 USD). Then again, you’re a desirable customer profile and should have ample qualified service options that are timely and low touch.
 

Jeff J

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Jun 23, 2021
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I downloaded an owners manual for the Cobalt and the Volvo Penta. The Cobalt manual states a variety of reasons for a beep every minute and claims the various reasons are identified on the gauge by an abbreviation. All the gauge says when it beeps is “check engine”.

The Volvo manual states any oil pressure problem causes a countinous tone.

One thing that puzzles me about one of the replies I received… if the frequency of the beep went from continuous to once per minute when the cap and rotor was changed, how can a misfire not be causing the continuous beeping?

I dropped a new distributor into the motor yesterday. Now hunting for timing info because I have my doubts when I will be able to get a real boat mechanic to come set it. I just hope an old induction timing light is all that is needed.
 

Earl Cordova

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Apr 21, 2021
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You either need a code reader or find someplace that does.
Everything else is just conjecture.
 

Jeff J

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Jun 23, 2021
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Code reader only showed a code for a misfire when the the boat was in the shop. The mechanic recommended the cap and rotor change which I had to do myself. One of the cap screws didn’t feel quite right but I let it run thinking there wasn’t any real force on a cap. Bad screw came loose and ruined the new cap and rotor. Further investigation revealed the screw hole was stripped so in went a new distributor. I don’t want to run it again until I can get it timed.

I haven’t been able to get a code reader to the dock. Not buying one myself because the job is only paying $18K for the season manager position. Since I have some mechanical skills and a willingness to step up and make things happen, I have managed to keep 13 of 14 boats operational. Previous managers could only keep 6 or 7 boats running at one time. One boat went at least 300 hours without an oil change. One of the Yamahas was overheating and needed an impeller. The fix was to trim the motor full down and disable the trim so it couldn’t be worked hard enough to overheat. That’s what I have been dealing with since March plus the everyday things renters tear up because they either don’t know what they are doing or don’t care or both.

I may accept an offer from them to work next year strictly as a mechanic for $18K. If I do I would consider buying (better yet, make the club buy) a code reader then. I have one for Yamaha only because I own an F70 but haven’t checked to see if it will work with an F150. It was a waste of money for since it wasn’t any help troubleshooting the problem I was having when I bought it.
 

alldodge

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Had a screw strip out so I retapped hole next screw size up. They also make a repair plate to fix the Dizzy

That said here is how to set the HVS distributor in, and there is no timing light used. This is Merc but VP are installed same way (both GM motors)

HVS Distributor Timing.jpg

There is a service bulletin which if there is an issue after install, but unless there is then there should be no issue
 

Jeff J

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Jun 23, 2021
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I half expect an issue. The rotor didn’t line up exactly the same.
 

alldodge

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Assuming it was scribed or marked where the rotor was
The rotor turns as it goes in, pull it out rotate on tooth and drop back in
 

Jeff J

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 23, 2021
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Did that many times as well as tweaked the location of the oil pump shaft to allow the distributor to drop in at the different locations. New distributor doesn’t go in the same as the old. Maybe a quarter tooth off at the closest location. Haven’t done very many distributors but have stabbed many aircraft magnetos.
 
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