Electrical failure component percent

thatone123

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Wondering if anyone has any thought on this: One OMC outboards, what would be the failure rate on the below parts?
This is what I think but maybe wrong but willing to take the risk. There are folks there with a lot more experience than I, but thought I see what they have to say from long expreience. This could be off by a reasonable percentage of course.

!. Stator assembly in total under the flywheel (could be 1 component or all ) - 20%
2. Coils (could be 1 or multilabel coils ) - 30%
3. Cdi unit- 50%
 

racerone

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What does a failure rate of 50% mean ??????-----This stuff is far more reliable than you think.-----But many of these parts are replaced ( perfectly good ) because folks are not trouble shooting.-----Perhaps they do not know how anymore !!
 

thatone123

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What I mean raceone is in any one electrical problem in an outboard what is the percentage chance of one component part failing comparded to another. You are right that trouble shooting is getting to be a thing of the past as few have the time to get off the cell phone and video games to learn TS. Have to admit that I don't enjoy TS myself as I am too impatient and at my age tend to forget what I learned if I don't repeat the task on a regular basis. Yes, I know this is the hated by many - parts replacer. But, that is how it is going these days. I don't want the time and trouble of flywheel removal unless totally necessary as it is a long and trying job. If I can replace lets say on a 50 OMC 2 stroke the coil assembly for $35 and the CDI for $60, I'm out $100 that I would much more waste in time as time is $ on that flywheel. So, my idea is to reasonably determine the % chance that is the other 2 components that are quick and easy to change and don't spend half a day of waster time to me. So, I know many that have spent long years TS will not agree with this, but things won't change any more than we are likely to go back to a more moral and rational society any time soon. Like many I simply want to avoid electrics as much as possible. All of the electrical components will or can fail and I want to know my percentages when I change out the part of the likely hood of that being the defective part. I would say that the CDI fails 50% of the time from my experience and wide reading compared to the other parts. So, like many, that is the first part to replace for me if there is no spark. I'm working on an outboard now, that after checking the basics there is only one spark on a 2 cylinder (the most common engine), so I have ordered a new coil set. Might be wrong, but probably not a bad idea to replace and go from there if that is not the problem. All I am asking is what others have experienced if there is such a thing as to the % rate of failure of the electrical parts compared to the other electrical parts.
 

dingbat

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What you are looking for is the mean time between failure rate (mtfb) for each component.

Probably 1000’s of hours for each component? How old is your motor?

Soyiu our change out all the above parts and the problem is still there. Then what?

Throw the motor away and buy new because the ignition wire at the switch is corroded?
 

F_R

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I'd say the power pack is far more reliable than that. The whole system on my personal motor is only 35 years old and never been touched.
 

racerone

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Well ----You can test the stuff under the flywheel on most motors without removing the flywheel.----I repeat , trouble shooting is a lost art.-----Some folks here do not need a health club membership.------They are always " jumping to conclusions " about electrical stuff !!!!
 

Faztbullet

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Most failed electrical on OMC outboards in order....IMO and 40+years of experience
1) rectifiers and regulators. Due to loose connections, damaged battery or operator miss connections on battery/charger. You should never have to charge a starting battery.
2) starters/wiring....OMC motor electronics are RPM sensitive and need good battery CCA ,good wiring, and starter brushes/bushings worn over the years cause starters to loose RPM.
3) timer bases....they just frigging die, usually heat and vibration
4) stator...usually damaged by rectifier/regulator problem
5) pack …usually the internal rectifier is damaged resulting in no spark. This can happen from stator overvoltage. If only a single cyl is not firing the SCR is damaged in pack. This is usually from a inductive kick back from coil spiking the SCR. On dual pack engine the opposite pack can cause problems
6) coil....Coils that do fail are usually from connection problem as grounds ,overtightening mounting bolts as it breaks the powdered core ferrite, grounding washers missing, this can cause coil to kick back into the pack or damage cyl as it can double fire. I can put all the ADI bad coils I have replaced in 40 years in a 2 gallon bucket.
 

racerone

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And how many threads have we seen with ---" I replaced stator / powerpack / trigger and all coils , motor still acts up " -----The evidence is there.
 

GA_Boater

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99.9% of electrical problems are carb/fuel caused. And vice versa.

The reason for troubleshooting opposed to shotgunning.
 

gm280

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I guess I am confused with this one. Even IF you know the real percentages of component failure(s), exactly what does that do for YOU? Are you going to carry with you all the possible failure parts when boating? :decision:

Knowing what could go bad, means virtually nothing in the scheme of things. Let's say for the sake of this conversation that coils are the most failure rated part(s) for your engine. So you carry extra coils. But the trigger base fails and that was not as high a MTBF item. What good knowing has any of that accomplished for you carrying extra coils... :noidea:

I don't see what good it is to have such percentages. If your engine fails, you still need to systematically troubleshoot to find the part or parts that failed. JMHO

Seems Murphy's Law has to apply somewhere in this scenario...
 

thatone123

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Good stuff to chew on! I mostly use the 2 stroke 15, but have had and run bigger outboards and have a few now, that I have not run on the water yet. I always carry a spare CDI as that is what has failed in the past. Yes, I could see carrying extra spare parts. Many do that with 4x4 trucks and jeeps in remote locations. Along with tools, which I always carry. I'm just trying to have a simple method of changing/fixing the problems for us electric challenged/adverse to wires folk. I would say that for outboards and many engines that fuel problems usually are 80 to 90% of the non start, not run right issues for another example. I did say that these % would be after all the connections and simple stuff are checked first. Powerpacks for the 9.9/15 were known for failure from what I have read. I only had it happen once. I should have mentioned that this % idea would be for a non- battery start outboard to make it more understandable. I still think that my percentages are fairly correct to within 10 % points for a non-battery start engine. Yes, ro, TS is a lost art for sure...that is my purpose of this % idea to give some kind of base to work from if possible. Just the mixed terminology for the same or similiar parts (stator, timing base, charging coil, pulsing coil) for electric work and all of the different meters from needle to the most modern digital and then the confusion of folks with good intentions on Utube, but maybe not the right stuff to explain the problems properly.
 
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thatone123

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Raceone, as some say "Com' on man"....It's CDI...…. a trusted authority in the matter!
 
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racerone

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1 2 3 ------You have struggled with a few repairs I believe.
 
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