Electric nightmare

[Otherway1970]

I have a 1989 seaswirl 230 Cordova and I washed it after buying it. Now, the bilge works, lights, and blower but nothing else. The master switch is off yet the power to those is still on. Boat won’t start. I had the key in my pocket and those still worked so….. ideas?

 

[Scott Danforth]

start at the battery, remove and clean every electrical connection all the way to the motor, then follow the wiring up to the helm. you have typical bad connections.

any suspect wire or cable that is "crunchy" gets replaced.

 

[dingbat]

I had the key in my pocket and those still worked so….. ideas?

No key involved.
These devises are typically wired directly to the battery.

Before you start tracking down wiring, hit the basics….. do you have 12.7 volts on the battery?

 

[KD4UPL]

Bilge pump, lights, and blower don't typically need the key on. I wouldn't expect it to start with the master switch off. Will it start if you turn that on?

 

[Otherway1970]

No key involved.
These devises are typically wired directly to the battery.

Before you start tracking down wiring, hit the basics….. do you have 12.7 volts on the battery?

Yes, 12.7 on the average. But the master switch is off so why is there power to the dash?

 

[Otherway1970]

The starter is toast, as well as the impeller so….

 

[dingbat]

The starter is toast

That will do it

 

[Scott Danforth]

Yes, 12.7 on the average. But the master switch is off so why is there power to the dash?

because in the last 35 years, someone rewired it wrong.

 

[dingbat]

because in the last 35 years, someone rewired it wrong.

Or someone got tired of the key being on to listen to radio…lol

 

[Scott Danforth]

Or someone got tired of the key being on to listen to radio…lol

thats why I spent the extra $2 for a key switch with an Aux position. I can run the radio and depth finder without the engine or gauges being on.

 

[Dubed]

I have a 1989 seaswirl 230 Cordova and I washed it after buying it. Now, the bilge works, lights, and blower but nothing else. The master switch is off yet the power to those is still on. Boat won’t start. I had the key in my pocket and those still worked so….. ideas?

Stupid question, but I'll ask it...
Based on this statement.. when you say "master switch" are you referring to the "battery switch" or the "ignition switch" (key)?

 

[dingbat]

thats why I spent the extra $2 for a key switch with an Aux position. I can run the radio and depth finder without the engine or gauges being on.

Not a fan of having a key switch involved in powering anything except the ignition and start relay.

Running a Blue Seas, Dual Battery Plus (On/Off/Combine) switch. All electronics wired to a dedicated fuse panel connected to one of the accessory outputs on switch.

 

[Scott Danforth]

My key switch runs two solid state 100 amp DC contactors for the house loads. and on the ignition side, 2 40 amp relays. the amount of current that goes thru the key switch is literally about 0.4 amps because of the dual relays and status LED's.

 

[Otherway1970]

Stupid question, but I'll ask it...
Based on this statement.. when you say "master switch" are you referring to the "battery switch" or the "ignition switch" (key)?

Yes

 

[04fxdwgi25]

^^^^^ And that right there is why the question won't be answered properly

 

[Otherway1970]

Yes

Battery switch, sorry about the last response I miss read your message.

 

[Otherway1970]

^^^^^ And that right there is why the question won't be answered properly

Yes sir, I misread his comment and answered incorrectly. Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[dingbat]

My key switch runs two solid state 100 amp DC contactors for the house loads. and on the ignition side, 2 40 amp relays. the amount of current that goes thru the key switch is literally about 0.4 amps because of the dual relays and status LED's.

That’s the proper way to switch high loads through an ignition switch if required.

Why involve a key switch, relays, etc. to power distribution panel(s)?

The additional hardware substantially increases the chance of a failure over a simple, common point operator, ie battery switch.

 

[Scott Danforth]

battery switch is in the back, all the power distribution is up front behind the helm. when I key off (at a marina, restaurant, overnight, etc.), I want the amps, electronics, and dash off, however the bilge pumps, and nav-lights remain hot as they are on the power feed from the battery. other than an 8" jumper from the terminal buss to the contactors and moving the power feed, there was not much of a change behind the dash.

 

[Otherway1970]

Well I found out my starter was toast, one of my batteries ( the auxiliary one) was dead. This boat is teaching me a whole mess of things! I got a new lower unit from SEI but the thrush washer doesn’t seem to fit. I’ve put in a new carburetor, batteries, starter( fun times), a lower unit, and now need a new prop and thrush washer or one or the other. Any ideas on where to find the right washer and prop for this lower unit? It’s a SEI 109 lower.