Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

[Luke Newman]

Well this is my first post and I have no mechanical background. I feel I am pretty handy and after reading some information posted in these forums I decided I was going to try to fix up an old motor that was given to me. Thats right I said given to me. I am a lucky SOB. A lady I work with walked in my office and asked if I wanted a 14' jon boat, trolling motor, and 10 hp 1959 Evinrude all on a new trailer and I said h*ll yes!

Anyway, I just purchased an ignition tune up kit, carb kit, and impeller from here on iboats. I am going to get new spark plugs as well. Here lies my first question...Does anyone know what plug I need to get from Champion (part number)? I do not know what the OMC equivalent is for my motor. My motor is the 10018 model number if that helps any. Like I said I don't know too much about engines but I assume I need two spark plugs for this engine...correct?

Also, is there anything else I need to get and replace? The husband that allowed his wife to give away his boat (heart stints/health problems-can't go out on a boat anymore) put in a fuel pump to convert it to a single line instead of the duel pressurised tank. He said it wouldn't start without starter fluid so I am going to try to clean up the carb real good and hope he didn't mess it up using the ether.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

check compression on the motor and tell us the numbers. u may need to check for gear oil in the lower unit see if there was any water intrusion. nice little motor to have. i have the same exact one even the same exact model number. i love it.

make sure u use a 24:1 fuel and oil mixture with tcw-3 oil. got my motor on a pontton. pretty nice. i get maybe 5-8 mph on it. with a john u can expect 18-22 mph

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

Champion JC-4 gapped at .030 http://www.boatsetup.com/Spark Plug Chart 2007 BRP.pdf

 

[Luke Newman]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

Thanks guys. I sure do appreciate it. Keep the good advice coming.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

I had my '58 Johnson 10hp on my 16' pontoon boat also and it cruised pretty nicely with it. Now I have an 18 on it... Might be a 25 this summer

If it only started with starting fluid (which you shouldn't use btw) then it is probably carb or he did not get his fuel pump working correctly. Pull the hose off the pump and pull the engine over and see if fuel comes out.

A free boat, motor and trailer.... Nice!

You never mentioned coils in there. I don't believe they come with the tuneup kit thus you will probably need coils. Pull off the recoil start and pop the 'lil cover off the flywheel and look at the coils to see the condition they're in. If original they will need replacing. And as mentioned, take the compression readings before putting any $$$ into it, just in case...

 

[F_R]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

Agreed, unless the coils have been replaced, they are always shot on OMC motors of that vintage. It is common and expected, and you are totally wasting your time and money until you get in there and fix what really needs fixing.

Not saying you don't have carburetor problems too, but the bad coils are probably the cause of your starting trouble. Even bad ones may provide enough of a puny spark to ignite ether, but not gasoline/oil mix.

 

[Luke Newman]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

Thanks guys. I am going to check the compression and get new coils. I have read here that the compression just needs to be close for both cylinders and it doesn't matter as much what the compression is. What is a good range you "hope" the compression falls into though. around 100??

Anyway, keep the good advice coming!

 

[wbeaton]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

Minimum of 80 psi. +100 psi is better.

 

[Luke Newman]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

Ok I purchased a compression valve kit from Auto Zone. I know I am probably asking questions that are common knowledge to most but would someone with knowledge of this motor tell me a step by step process to check the compression. Thanks again for everyones help and advice.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

I assume you bought a compression tester. Remove the spark plugs. Leave the plugs connected to the wires and ground the plugs to the block. If you have to replace the ignition then don't worry about grounding the plugs. Grounding them is done to protect the coils, but if your coils are shot it doesn't matter. Some say to turn the throttle all the way open, but it doesn't matter. Pull the rope until the tester gets its highest reading. Usually 4-5 pulls will do it. Then read the compression from the dial. Its as simple as that. repeat for the second cylinder.

 

[Luke Newman]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

Ok I tested both cylinders. I did not turn the throtlle open I just left it alone. I got a reading of 65psi in both cylinders. I will say that I purchased the cheapest compression tester I could find. The motor looks mint. It looks like all the wiring is new. I did notice the spark plugs were the JC-6 instead of the JC-4 like shown on the chart provided here. I found out the man that owned the boat was retired but worked part time during the summer helping out some small businesses repairing small lawn mower motors so I think this motor was well taken care of. Like I said, the engine almost looks new when you take the hood off. I think the carb could possibly even be new. Anyway, keep the feedback coming and let me know how concerned I should be with the compression readings being lower than stated it should be...

 

[EARLS BOAT]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

That is a good outboard. I have a 1960 10hp evinrude myself. i love it. i am new to the iboat forums, so new in fact i cant figure out how to post my own questions! i have found out how to reply to others. if anybody would like to help a big dummy i'd be thankful.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

Did you take out both plugs so there was no compression on the cylinder not being tested so you could pull it harder? Did you pull until you got the highest reading? 65lbs. is low,not worth messing with. However, I still doubt that's what the compression really is because those testers are just so unreliable and because those motors are so darned tough. I use the cheapy tester too and get pretty good results. But it's the 2nd one I bought. Let me ask you this: What does the compression FEEL like when you pull it with the plugs in? Does it feel like you think it should or is it too darned easy to pull? I've found at the suggestion at others that a lot of times if you can turn the flywheel by hand and if it has a lot of good springiness or "bounce" when you push it toward top dead center and let it go then it's a good indication. Also, if you just turn it very slow and feel for any binding or slack in the wrist pins it's a bad sign. Lastly, you can turn the flywheel and get the piston just BEFORE top dead center and then reach through the spark plug hole and gently push down on the piston with a screwdriver and see if the piston goes back with no resistance about a 1/2 inch, it's probably got worn wrist pins and isn't worth working on the powerhead. If it looks like a taken care of motor, I'd be tempted to fix the coils and clean the carb and get it running and see how it idles. If I was really concerned after trying another tester (can't you borrow one for free at autozone??) and getting the same low reading, I'd take off the bypass covers on the shifter side of the powerhead and look through the intake ports at the pistons and see if they're scored. You can use a flashlight to get a peak at some of the cylinder walls, too.
Good luck---got any pics of that motor?
JBJ

 

[Woodstock60]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

I believe that is a good even compression reading for a small pull start motor. i find that if a motor has an electric starter a good reading will be approx. 110 psi each cyl. but on the pull starts I always seem to average 65 to 70 psi (each)

 

[jbjennings]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

When you click on johnson/evein. forum and the threads come up, you should see an icon that says "start new thread". Click it and post away! Welcome, these guys have taught me so much!!! You'll enjoy it.
JBJ

 

[Luke Newman]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

Did you take out both plugs so there was no compression on the cylinder not being tested so you could pull it harder? Did you pull until you got the highest reading? 65lbs. is low,not worth messing with. However, I still doubt that's what the compression really is because those testers are just so unreliable and because those motors are so darned tough. I use the cheapy tester too and get pretty good results. But it's the 2nd one I bought. Let me ask you this: What does the compression FEEL like when you pull it with the plugs in? Does it feel like you think it should or is it too darned easy to pull? I've found at the suggestion at others that a lot of times if you can turn the flywheel by hand and if it has a lot of good springiness or "bounce" when you push it toward top dead center and let it go then it's a good indication. Also, if you just turn it very slow and feel for any binding or slack in the wrist pins it's a bad sign. Lastly, you can turn the flywheel and get the piston just BEFORE top dead center and then reach through the spark plug hole and gently push down on the piston with a screwdriver and see if the piston goes back with no resistance about a 1/2 inch, it's probably got worn wrist pins and isn't worth working on the powerhead. If it looks like a taken care of motor, I'd be tempted to fix the coils and clean the carb and get it running and see how it idles. If I was really concerned after trying another tester (can't you borrow one for free at autozone??) and getting the same low reading, I'd take off the bypass covers on the shifter side of the powerhead and look through the intake ports at the pistons and see if they're scored. You can use a flashlight to get a peak at some of the cylinder walls, too.
Good luck---got any pics of that motor?
JBJ

1.) Yes I took out both plugs.
2.) The rope actually has plenty of resistance behind it. It definately isn't smooth or easy to pull like say a lawn more motor.
3.) If I looked into the intake ports I wouldn't know what looked bad or good. I would think with all the oil/carbon build up in this old motor it would look pretty black any way about it.
4.) I will try to get some pictures up tomorrow.
5.) Thanks for the advice. Keep it coming. If 65 is correct, what does that let me "know" about the motor? What are the most likely problems and what do you have to do to correct them? I was told that the motor runs perfectly fine once you can get it cranked. Why is low compression a death sentence? (Again, I don't have a lot of mechanical knowledge)

I appreciate all the help and information from everyone. Please keep it coming and give me your oppinions on everything.

Thanks!!

 

[jbjennings]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

Luke,
If it runs, then base your opinion on working on it by how it runs.
65lbs. (if it is 65lbs. and your gauge is right) of compression will make it a pain in the rear to start, cause it to idle really rough or not even slow idle at all, and not give you the top speed it's capable of. I usually get about 85 or 90 lbs. on my 50's 10hp motors and they crank in 1 or 2 pulls no matter what temp. it is outside. In other words, they crank really easy. They idle really slow as well. With 65lbs. of compression you'll never get it running like you really want and it will plague you. If you take off the intake covers, it won't be oily and carboned up like you think. If you see even slight scratches on the pistons or cylinder walls, that's not good. It will be carboned up on the exhaust side, not the intake side. You will also be able to look at the piston rings and see if you can easily push them in a little which will let you know they aren't totally stuck in the grooves by carbon buildup.
About the only thing I can think of that would make both cylinders have the same low compression is that someone ran it either without oil in the gas or with only a 50:1 fuel/oil ratio for a long time. You should see some scratches on the pistons if that was the case. The only OMC motor I ever had that had only 65lbs. of compression had a chipped piston because of too much slack in the wrist pins. It would run but not worth a flip and wouldn't run wide open.
You can probably take off the bypass covers without having to replace the gaskets. Just always be very careful you don't break off any bolts using too much pressure. Use a LITTLE heat if necessary. If it's a freshwater motor, I usually don't have any trouble getting the bypass covers off and avoiding any broken bolts. Before I did that I'd get a spark tester and check for spark, then if I had spark I'd try spraying a little sea foam in the carb throat after I took off the carb silencer and seeing if it'd run. If you can get it to run, you can do a decarb. and sometimes that helps compression if the piston rings are stuck. Don't forget to make sure it's pumping plenty of water out the exhaust relief so it doesn't overhat! Fill that barrel up just below the hole in the mid section (exhaust relief) with water or it won't pump and burn the motor up.
JBJ

 

[jbjennings]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

BTW,
I believe I remember a fellow much more knowledgeable than I am, say that he has had 10hp OMC's that ran fairly well with 65lbs. of compression, so don't feel just awful if yours has that. IF it does, then there's no solution other than a complete rebuild of the powerhead (ie new piston rings and reboring the cylinders--not counting if there are other problems which in many cases there are). In my opinion, most of the time it's much cheaper and by far easier to just get a used powerhead that has good compression to replace it with. I'll bet you could find one with just a little patience for 50 to 100 bucks.
Not that you'll probably have to worry about that.
I wll say that I've gotten some really UGLY, SHABBY, worn-out looking motors and they ran GREAT. Here's an example of an ugly '56 15hp before and after new coils and a new water pump impeller--and paint and decals.
Looks can be deceiving sometimes as to what they're like internally.
Keep us updated,
JBJ

 

[Luke Newman]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

JB thanks for all your help. In case I do end up looking to buy a new powerhead, do I have to get a 1959 10 hp powerhead or are there other years that had the same powerhead?

Thanks again!

 

[jbjennings]

Re: Easy question on my 59 Evinrude 10 hp

Don't go worrying about a powerhead just yet, a decarb has been known to free stuck rings, and a new head gasket and replaned heads have also been known to be a savior. Get it running if possible before you go takind the head off because you'll possibly get some broken head bolts and they can be a booger for the shadetree to fix. Never force them or they WILL break. I received some advice to never reuse head bolts and found that to be very good advice. If you do decide to take the cylinder head off, just take it off and rub it in a figure 8 pattern on some sandpaper (about 400 grit) that's laying on a piece of flat glass. You could have a blown head gasket or something not allowing it to build up compression. If you can get it running, you'll usually see some milky stuff on the plugs if it has a leaking head gasket.
I'm not sure which years of powerheads will fit it. WBeaton would probably know, or F-R or SamoOtt and I'd totally trust whatever they tell you much more than myself. Those guys and many more here taught me most of what I have learned about these old motors.
Later,
JBJ​