E-tec 40 hp

[JimDirt]

I don't think your VST has an internal conical filter..
bigger engines have one on the injector return line.

the external is easy to replace ... what is strongly recommended is an external fuel/water separator filter (RACOR 10 micron style ).

I have used this seasence for 18 years ..no issues with fuel... ever . Never realy seen watereither but I purge the base 1-2 times per season . The filter only module seems rare ??? for 46$ CDN you get both the filter and new clear bowl. The whole unit is about 80$ CDN

https://www.amazon.ca/Seasense-Fuel-Filter-Clear-Aluminum/dp/B004XAEW6Q/ref=sr_1_2?crid=18CUMXKGUY5&keywords=seasense+fuel+filter&qid=1680105415&sprefix=Sea+sense+%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-2

I think this is the type of filter that you're talking about.

 

[JimDirt]

 

[Crosbyman]

obviously...

 

[JimDirt]

obviously...

I'm not sure what to make of that response. You're either hard to read, or you have a hard time reading. Not really sure. I posted a pic of my filter and you gave me some abbreviations that I'm not sure what they mean, and some other stuff that doesn't apply to my engine, and telling me what filter I needed. So, I take the filter off so I can read the side of it, and I realize that's the type that you recommended. So, I post a close up and I get a seemingly wise ass response. So, I'll leave you gents be and happy boating!

 

[Crosbyman]

My comment was simply confirmation that your filter was "obviously" the same , in the sense of Identical to the one I suggested (RACOR) . Nothing wise ass about it intended .

The word "evidently" may have been more appropriate ? Sorry if you were offended.

Wise ass and condesending exists on this site but I try to avoid it.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

My comment was simply confirmation that your filter was "obviously" the same , in the sense of Identical to the one I suggested (RACOR) . Nothing wise ass about it intended .

The word "evidently" may have been more appropriate ? Sorry if you were offended.

Wise ass and condesending exists on this site but I try to avoid it.

Crosbyman is the least condescending man on this site bar none.

Another example of internet reading being interpreted incorrectly.

Keep your story going.

 

[JimDirt]

I took smoky out last Sunday, but it didn't turn out like it was supposed to. Engine started with just a touch of the key. Backed off the trailer tied up, turned off the motor. Parked the truck, engine fires right back up. Idle out for several minutes getting stuff situated and hit the throttle and away we go. For about a minute. The engine does. I crank it, crank it...nothing. So I squeeze and squeeze the bulb...nothing. Fortunately I had put my 2hp Suzuki on in anticipation of doing some trolling. So I got it fired up and going. Fished for a little bit, then I realized that I didn't open the vent on the fuel jug..doh! I take the cap off, crank the motor and it sounds like its flooded. It finally starts, idle is rough, and it dies when I put it in gear. Repeat 2x.Then I noticed that when I turn the key that my oil alarm isn't beeping. So that's that. I used the little motor to get back to the ramp. I sent out a text to the previous owner. Thinking he could shed some light on the situation. But I had no signal until we got several miles away from the lake. He got back to me and asked me questions about stuff that I'd already covered then he mentioned a wire coming off of the ignition switch. Which would explain why I wasn't getting my oil alarm. So when I got home I crawled underneath the dash and sure enough a wire had come off the ignition switch. The switch was loose and spins around in the hole so while I was trying to start it it was spinning around spinning around and pulled one of the wires loose evidently. I got it taken care of. I took today off to go again, but the weather did not cooperate.

I finished up the plumbing and relocating of the filter. Did the wheel bearings on the trailer today. I also ran the battery cable and fuel line thru this hole that had been for the electric plug for the downriggers. I split a pc of fuel line and lined the edge of the hole with it

 

[JimDirt]

ETECs burn about 40-50% less gas .. my 2005 - 75hp runs cheaper than my old merc 500 carb it burns .6L /hr trolling. next to no smoke/smell using xd100 oil at xd100 setting.... if not on XD-100 setting it will used either tcw3 or XD100.. .. theengin can run with no oil for a while in safe mode (rpm around 1200 )

my 2005 was EPA cerified no oil is burnt in the fuel in 2013 models all is injected to internals undr EMM control

do they last....??? I am going 18 years now great engines for me anyway ! but like all brands a certain % bomb out but a lot of failures are CPU/EMM failures due to poor DC batt. connections. oiling & fuel everything is pretty much computer controlled with the EMM dropping RPMs in case of tolerable problems and shut downs on major issues.

Diagnostic software is available to trouble shoot and keeps history file of all recordable issues so get a log dump before on any purchase to check for past and current (active) fault codes . see link to manuals find 2010 40hp and download if need be

EV diagnostic is available at dealers or amazon Always do a test run

https://www.amazon.ca/Moto-Solution-Diagnostic-Scanner-EVINRUDE-Outboard/dp/B07DVNRHP9/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1YYVG1BF4B1EU&keywords=etec+EV+diagnostic&qid=1679071384&sprefix=etec+ev+diagnostic%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-10

visit the ETEC User board ...feel free to ask questions about any concern you have

E-TEC I-2 - Barnacle Bill's Marine Supply

Post all your 15HO thru 65hp questions here

www.etecownersgroup.com

Evinrude Diagnostics Version 5 A Guide To Getting Started

EVINRUDE DIAGNOSTICS VERSION 5 A GUIDE TO GETTING STARTED September 2021 INTRODUCTION This guide is primarily intended to help Evinrude E-TEC owners. The words...

docs.google.com

Repair Manuals G1 Motors & Gearcase - Google Drive

drive.google.com

C-man, I'm gonna order that diagnostic cable. I got a problem. 1st I found that cable on ebay for about $30 cheaper. I don't think its the same brand as the one you linked, but, I will pay the extra if you recommend it. Also, reading in the manual, do I need the serial port adapter?
So, what happened? I went out fishing on friday evening and while out, at one point I heard the alarm go off while the engine was running. The "no oil" light lit up briefly. I continued on and didn't hear it again. I went out again on sunday morning and after a few hours I had heard that same alarm a couple times. I'm getting concerned at this point. I had decided to head back to the ramp, and I hear the alarm again, and a minute or so later the engine died. I checked the fuel and the vent on the cap, squeezed the bulb and it fired back up. I went slow for a couple of minutes and then WOT and it died again. Repeat on more time and then it wouldn't start. So, I got it home and I discovered another clogged fuel line. (I didn't report here, but one of my trips, after having an issue, I found the fuel line clogged with the liner that is in the line.) I replaced it, but there was still a 16" pc of line from the tank to the primer bulb. I kept meaning to change it, but, just always told myself, if it aint broke don't fix it. Well, after I got home yesterday, I found the blue section of fuel line was clogged like had happened previously. So, I thought that I had the problem figured out. Nope. I replaced the line, verified fuel to the filter under the hood, and it won't start. I checked compression and for spark. No spark. I tried a new plug (not the spec plug, but a new NGK plug) and still no spark. I would like to hear your thoughts on this....and about the diagnostic tool that I should get.

 

[Crosbyman]

you can order the SW form Amazon or possibly even the folks here at IBOATS.
I use an early version 5.0 purchased with the cable and plug (Pc usb to the triangular plug on the ETEC. Look for SW and cable with FDTI chip set.... One product comes with 2 cables ... general maintenace and Boot strap cable for serious file transfers by exprienced folks (Not for me since wrong move can trun a EMM into a brick $$$)

https://www.amazon.ca/Moto-Solution-Diagnostic-Scanner-EVINRUDE-Outboard/dp/B07DVNRHP9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=E-TC+diagnostic+software&qid=1684194658&sr=8-1

you can actually download some free copies from the ETEC user board and make up your own connect cable but... that is not for everyone to venture in. THe ETEC owners site search utility will give you cable designs if you plan to build it .

Advice for Diagnostic Software and Cable Setup including Bootstrap Cable

E115DPLSCR #5232863 I’m looking for advice for an affordable Diagnostic Software and Cable Setup including Bootstrap Cable. I just don’t have the extra money right now to afford a factory setup.

www.etecownersgroup.com

Serial ports on older PCs use the RS232 electrical signal standard hence the need for a Serial interface adapter. My laptop is only USB interface and my EV diag cable plugs in directly. Special drivers come with the EV software to communicate with the engine interface.
suggest you rad the GEB doc. I sent you to become familiar..

https://www.powersports-diag.com/en/evinrude-diagnostic-kits/6-evinrude-diagnostic-kit-evdiag.html

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

USER GEB... is the resident expert of EV diagnostic on the E-TEC user board feel free to ask him any question. He is very helpful.

Took me awhile to get my Version 5 going but it is fairly simple once it is up and running. follow instructions in GEB'S write -up

RE: your issues.

No oil mean the EMM lost to many pulses from the oil pump . this is sometimes causedby air bubbles in the oil lines. Doing a few winterize will sometimes clear it up.

sudden dying may all be related to fuel flow to the injectors. make certain all lines are good, fuel is good etc... reprime the system .

IF a solid fault was declared in the EMM it will need to be cleared with EV diagnostic when you get it. Mean time at KEY ON check the LED,s pon the EMM and refer to the book.

Not certain this works but turn the key OFF.... disconnect power ta the battery for 10-15 minutes reconnect the battery then KEY ON and check the 4 LED cycle OFF on the system tach. if you have one...you should.

 

[JimDirt]

you can order the SW form Amazon or possibly even the folks here at IBOATS.
I use an early version 5.0 purchased with the cable and plug (Pc usb to the triangular plug on the ETEC. Look for SW and cable with FDTI chip set.... One product comes with 2 cables ... general maintenace and Boot strap cable for serious file transfers by exprienced folks (Not for me since wrong move can trun a EMM into a brick $$$)

https://www.amazon.ca/Moto-Solution-Diagnostic-Scanner-EVINRUDE-Outboard/dp/B07DVNRHP9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=E-TC+diagnostic+software&qid=1684194658&sr=8-1

you can actually download some free copies from the ETEC user board and make up your own connect cable but... that is not for everyone to venture in. THe ETEC owners site search utility will give you cable designs if you plan to build it .

Advice for Diagnostic Software and Cable Setup including Bootstrap Cable

E115DPLSCR #5232863 I’m looking for advice for an affordable Diagnostic Software and Cable Setup including Bootstrap Cable. I just don’t have the extra money right now to afford a factory setup.

www.etecownersgroup.com

Serial ports on older PCs use the RS232 electrical signal standard hence the need for a Serial interface adapter. My laptop is only USB interface and my EV diag cable plugs in directly. Special drivers come with the EV software to communicate with the engine interface.
suggest you rad the GEB doc. I sent you to become familiar..

https://www.powersports-diag.com/en/evinrude-diagnostic-kits/6-evinrude-diagnostic-kit-evdiag.html

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

USER GEB... is the resident expert of EV diagnostic on the E-TEC user board feel free to ask him any question. He is very helpful.

Took me awhile to get my Version 5 going but it is fairly simple once it is up and running. follow instructions in GEB'S write -up

RE: your issues.

No oil mean the EMM lost to many pulses from the oil pump . this is sometimes causedby air bubbles in the oil lines. Doing a few winterize will sometimes clear it up.

sudden dying may all be related to fuel flow to the injectors. make certain all lines are good, fuel is good etc... reprime the system .

IF a solid fault was declared in the EMM it will need to be cleared with EV diagnostic when you get it. Mean time at KEY ON check the LED,s pon the EMM and refer to the book.

Not certain this works but turn the key OFF.... disconnect power ta the battery for 10-15 minutes reconnect the battery then KEY ON and check the 4 LED cycle OFF on the system tach. if you have one...you should.

I disconnected the battery this morning and I just hooked it up and it fired right up!!!! Woohoo! IDK for sure, but I bet the thing was sensing a lack of fuel and it went into shut down. But, ya I have the gauge with the 4 warning lights on it and a tach and they both work.

 

[Crosbyman]

glad things are looking up.

sometimes no oil code 38 comes from tilting the engine up to far ....I got a code 38 last summer on my 75hp just after I had to tilt it all the way up & bend over and take out my buddy's mono line .......twisted around my prop :-( :-(


happy reading..

2012 40- 90.pdf

drive.google.com

 

[JimDirt]

Hey all. Since my last post, all has been well with the boat/motor. Used it quite a bit this summer and barring the self-induced problems, and getting those corrected, it's performed very well. Had it out 3 weeks ago, and all was good. This morning, however, I went out to fish. Motor started right up like always, and I went about 1.5 miles and shut it down. Got everything situated to start fishing and I went to start the motor and I had nothing, No alarm, or gauge activity when I turned on the key. I'm like, oh great. So I go to start the little 2hp Suzuki and it doesn't want to run either. I put the troller in the water and got it going, and still trying to get the 2hp to start. It would start for a few seconds and die. Then for kicks I hit the key on the 40hp and it started right up. So, I went back close to the ramp and shut it off and restarted it several times. No problem. The little motor still didn't want to run, so I packed it in. I got home and pulled the hood off of the 40 and was looking at the battery cables to see if they're tight and I found the starter motor is loose and I can wiggle it around a bit. Could that be the issue? Also as I was driving home, I got to thinking about the nuetral safety switch. When I got home, I put the motor in gear and turned on the key, and I got the alarm and the gauges all activated. So, I don't think that's it.

 

[tphoyt]

A loose starter will leave you with a bad ground.
Could very well have been the problem.

 

[Crosbyman]

starters are power cookie monsters....

they need lots of amps pushed by a strong voltage from the battery.
anything interupting the flow of amps will impeded proper starter operation...

and a loose wire or starter itself will do it !

and btw anything susceptable of causing spikes or sparks on an ETEC power dist. system is known to be a frequent EMM killer $$$$$

incl NO WING NUST on the battery !!

 

[JimDirt]

Thanks for the replies. I tightened this bolt on the starter. It was pretty loose. I tightened the upper one and the cable connections on the solenoid.
I started and stopped about a dozen times and it seems ok. However my volt gauge was down around 11 volts until after a minute or so of running and when up.

And the Suzuki is going again. I had to clean the carb. I've had this motor for about 7 years and its gone a couple years or more between uses. I always use fuel stabilizer, but it doesn't perform miracles. LOL

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Thanks for the replies. I tightened this bolt on the starter. It was pretty loose. I tightened the upper one and the cable connections on the solenoid. View attachment 391710
I started and stopped about a dozen times and it seems ok. However my volt gauge was down around 11 volts until after a minute or so of running and when up.
View attachment 391711View attachment 391712View attachment 391713
And the Suzuki is going again. I had to clean the carb. I've had this motor for about 7 years and its gone a couple years or more between uses. I always use fuel stabilizer, but it doesn't perform miracles. LOL
View attachment 391714

Lock tight on the starter bolts and hopefully your using non-ethanol fuel.

 

[JimDirt]

Yes, E-free gas.

 

[airshot]

I have what I believe is the Mercury copy of your two horse Suz... I always run the carb dry after use, mine always starts on second or third pull and yes I use E10 fuel with a splash of stabilizer. Mine is a 1985, never an issue !! Pulled carb last summer just to check...clean as could be, so put it back on and just put in a new plug.

 

[JimDirt]

Hey all. Been a while.... So I got a question on my 40 E-tec. A couple weeks ago I was under the dash working on some wiring and I noticed that under there was a sticker that said "start hour meter at 142 hrs" So I called the guy that I got the boat from and he confirmed with his dad that yes that was when he put the E-tec on it. So now the motor, according the hour meter, has 540 hours on it. Is that a lot for one of these motors. It sure runs good.

 

[airshot]

Can't speak for the E Tec motors, but for OB motors in general...that is not many hours ! My 1992 Merc has around 1100 -1200 hours and runs like new, looks like new also...