Durabak any good?

RickyGee

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My 1991 houseboat has a fiberglass-on-plywood upperdeck/cabin ceiling that is ready for restoration. I think there are better materials than polyester resin gelcoat for the purpose, that will stand up to the sun, weather, stay waterproof, remain somewhat elastic and provide a slip resistant surface for the cove party dancers…

The new polyurethane based materials, like Durabak, look really attractive with all the properties I’m looking for. Then I saw a project that used KiwiGrip, an acrylic polymer that looks interesting as well.

I’ve searched the forum and read posts that mention Durabak, but not much that gets into detail, so I thought I would start a post to focus on the pros and cons, and ask anyone who has used it to chime in with their opinion. I thought the stuff was fantastic, until I saw an episode of Deadliest Catch where they used it in the engine room, and it was a disaster, probably because the steel wasn’t properly cleaned and primed. It looked ugly, didn’t stick in a lot of areas and was horrible to remove where it did…

I’m most interested in folks experience applying it to fiberglass, any application problems or issues with adhesion and opinion on its durability. Thanks.
 
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Axkiker

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Re: Durabak any good?

Very interested in this as well. I plan on using a similar material to line the inside of my boat after my new floor goes in.

So far I have mainly been researching U-pol raptor, Monstaliner, and Als liner. All seem to get good reviews and claim to be fine for a boat flooring. I think some of them even evolved from industrial coatings already used in the marine industry.

Another option I am looking into which I beleive to be a step above the DIY kits but below a Linex setup is the cartridge based systems like speedliner. You have to have a special gun which is very expensive but i beleive the final product would be better. Im considing the idea of buying the gun then selling it off after the job is done. I proced LineX and it was just too darn expensive the for Sq footage I have
 

GT1000000

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Re: Durabak any good?

I probably won't be of much help in determining if this is a good product, because I am quite a ways away from being able to apply it my deck, but it is currently at the top of my list...
I asked the company for samples in some of the colors I am interested in and I am quite pleased with the quality of it...seems quite tear resistant and seems very flexible...
I would imagine that as with any product, you really need to follow the manufacturer recommendations for the correct surface prep and installation...at the very least, if you document it and it fails, you can contact the manufacturer and they should stand behind their product either with replacement material or a refund...
 

RickyGee

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Re: Durabak any good?

Thanks for the advice and info. I read the two posts on the builds and it made me drool; those are both some real works of art by some very talented craftsmen. I'm pretty set on not using gelcoat even though that is what the deck was originally finished with. But I need something that will last at least a decade, exposed continuously to scorching sun, bitter cold and bare feet and never leak. That is how long the gelcoat finishes on these boats typically last. Hopefully, someone who has some years of experience with it will chime in, for the benefit of all of us.
 

pauloman

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Re: Durabak any good?

I would go with a solvent thinned epoxy primer (like esp 155) or an mcu (like aluthane) under a flexible epoxy paint (epoxy has outstanding adhesion like cm 15) with rubber - walnut etc. grit either broadcast or mixed in - results are different. then Ext latex or enamel over the fresh epoxy in whatever color you want.

some epoxies - like Rough Coat are thin epoxies with grit already applied.


Important to match the grit to the coating and the application. Are we talking about bare feet on a teenager, or work boots on a commercial fishing boat? lots of things to consider and test.
 

RickyGee

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Re: Durabak any good?

Wow, I love this forum. By posting this question, iBoats.com brought up some similar forum links dating back to 2006 that I somehow missed in my prior searching. Really good info. Maybe one of those folks will pipe in with a report on how well it is holding up over all these years; or maybe I'll PM them and ask...
 

RickyGee

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Re: Durabak any good?

I would go with a solvent thinned epoxy primer (like esp 155) or an mcu (like aluthane) under a flexible epoxy paint (epoxy has outstanding adhesion like cm 15) with rubber - walnut etc. grit either broadcast or mixed in - results are different. then Ext latex or enamel over the fresh epoxy in whatever color you want.

some epoxies - like Rough Coat are thin epoxies with grit already applied.

Important to match the grit to the coating and the application. Are we talking about bare feet on a teenager, or work boots on a commercial fishing boat? lots of things to consider and test.

Bare feet on teenagers, dancing girls, and yours truely and I have sensitive feet. I'm looking for a heavy orange peel without any grit. I've seen coatings with embedded texture elements expose the grit as they wear and look worn out after just a few years. For the same reason, I want to use a single consistant material for the base and top coats to avoid showing wear, although a specialty primer to transition from the polyester to the new material would be okay. Epoxy sounds interesting. Is there an epoxy product formulated like the Durabak or KiwiGrip? I'll check out Rough Coat. Thanks for the tips.
 

ondarvr

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Re: Durabak any good?

Durabak works well and is softer than most other products, so it's easy on the feet, knee's and buttocks. The colors I've seen used an added grit (if you want it) that was the same color at the product, and it aged better than most. But surfaces with texture are always more difficult to keep clean. You may be able to get all the texture you need with the right roller and the correct technique.

There are also two versions of it, an indoor and an outdoor version, make sure you get the outdoor product.
 

JASinIL2006

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Re: Durabak any good?

I used Durabak on my restoration (see link below in my sig.). Tomorrow I'll put up a post about how it worked out after a season's use.

Jim
 

JASinIL2006

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Re: Durabak any good?

I used Durabak on my deck (and up the insides of the hull) instead of the carpet that was in my boat prior to restoration. I was pretty careful about prepping the surface. I installed the Durabak over new fiberglass (on the deck) and over old, freshly ground fiberglass (sides of boat up to the gunwhales. (You can see the installation starting about post #169 in my resto thread.) I've had the Durabak in my boat for one season now; I use my boat to take day trips on the Mississippi and Illinois rivers, and it spends 2-3 weeks a year docked at a small lake in Ontario.

Installation of Durabak wasn't that bad, although it's pretty messy and if you use an accelerant to help it cure faster (or if you apply it at cooler temps than optimal) it has a pretty short pot life. You roll the stuff on with a special roller, let it cure, then recoat. There are both textured and smooth versions of Durabak, and some have UV protection (like you would need in a topcoat) and some don't have UV protection. The textured Durbak doesn't have hard grit in it, rather, the texturing comes from what feels like little bits of ground up rubber. It's very comfortable to walk or stand on, and it's not abrasive if you rub your skin against it. (It can be a bit 'sticky' if you rub skin across it, because the surface is a bit rubbery, but not to the point of causing abrasions; for toughened skin, like on your feet, it's very comfortable.)

I applied two coats of textured Durabak and one coat of smooth. This is what my deck looked like right after I applied the textured coats:

deck.jpg

This is a close-up of the surface after adding a coat of smooth Durabak:
smoothed.jpg

I liked the look and feel of it, and the surface has proven to be very skid resistant. Even with people climbing in and out of the boat for skiing, tubing, etc, the deck is never slippery. Hard goods, like coolers, tend not slide around, either.

There are some things about Durabak that I don't like, and to be honest, I'm not sure I'd go this route if I were to do it again. One problem I've noticed is that it holds dirt pretty well and is hard to clean. When we boat on the rivers, sand and silt gets tracked into the boat, and it's really hard to get it out, even with a brush and detergent. (The fine, clay-laden Mississippi silt is really bad, but the Durabak really holds dirt.) As a result, the deck often doesn't look that clean. It may be that another coat or two smooth Durabak would help, but I haven't tried yet. I may, just to see if it helps.

The Durabak hasn't been as durable as I would have liked. In a couple of places, it's worn through and you can see the fiberglass underneath. One of these places is around the ski locker opening, where the metal flange of the ski locker hatch sits on the deck:

locker 2 rev.jpg

The flange has actually cut into the Durabak. Similarly, some of the Durabak has worn/pulled off of a corner of the driver's seat pedestal base:

pedestal rev.jpg

Finally, some types of rubber seem to bond to the Durabak surface, even after it has cured. I had a foam-type floor mat at the driver's station (for me to stand on while driving) and the foam rubber and the Durabak more or less fused together. When removing the mat, it actually pulled some of the Durabak off the decking:

locker rev.jpg

Overally, Durabak was probably a bit cheaper than installing new carpet, and it was certainly less expensive than SeaDek or HydroTurf or one of these foam coverings. I don't feel that it's quite as durable and resistant to being cut as the manufacturer makes it out to be. One of the things I don't like about it at all is that, once you use Durabak, you are pretty much stuck with it. It is not coming out of the boat without a LOT of work, so this is the deck coating I will have. I am not even sure if I could use some sort of covering. I'd be worried about installing snap-in carpet over the Durbak, because carpet often has a rubber backing and I'd be afraid it would permanently bond with the Durabak like my rubber floor mat did. I might consider some foam covering like SeaDek, but I'm not sure how well the adhesive would stick to the textured surface.

I don't strongly dislike my Durabak, but I would be happier if it were a bit more durable and if it cleaned easier. If were starting over, I'd probably gel coat the deck and then apply a covering like snap-in carpeting or SeaDek or something similar.

Sorry for the long reply, but I know I couldn't find a lot of info about this when I was making my choice of flooring, and I'm hoping it can help you make a choice that will work for your boat.

Jim
 

Axkiker

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Re: Durabak any good?

Thats great info.

Im curious how Durabak compares to other 2 part coatings such as Al's or U-pol Raptor etc. I have been researching the subject as I am contemplating using a similar coating on my boat. Seems like most feel the 2 part systems hold up better than the one part systems like durabak

What I really want is LineX but just cant afford it at 10.00 a foot.
 

RickyGee

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Re: Durabak any good?

Sorry for the long reply, but I know I couldn't find a lot of info about this when I was making my choice of flooring, and I'm hoping it can help you make a choice that will work for your boat.

Jim

I really, REALLY appreciate your long reply and the time you gave us to share your experience. It is exactly what I was hoping for. You gave me a lot to think about. I have about 800 ft2 of deck to do, so the investment in time, effort and materials will be considerable. I want to be proud and happy with the end result over the long haul. Thanks again Jim. -Rick
 

JASinIL2006

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Re: Durabak any good?

Glad you found it useful. Let us know what you decide to put in your boat, and how you like it!

Jim
 

RickyGee

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Re: Durabak any good?

Thats great info.

Im curious how Durabak compares to other 2 part coatings such as Al's or U-pol Raptor etc. I have been researching the subject as I am contemplating using a similar coating on my boat. Seems like most feel the 2 part systems hold up better than the one part systems like durabak

What I really want is LineX but just cant afford it at 10.00 a foot.
LineX looks really interesting, but it appears that it can only be applied using mega pressure spray equipment. I will have to do mine in the slip, outdoors, with boats on either side, so I was hoping to find something that can be rolled. I also couldn't find any price information. Did you have to ask them for a quote? Drying in 5 seconds also scares me a bit.
 

Axkiker

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Re: Durabak any good?

LineX looks really interesting, but it appears that it can only be applied using mega pressure spray equipment. I will have to do mine in the slip, outdoors, with boats on either side, so I was hoping to find something that can be rolled. I also couldn't find any price information. Did you have to ask them for a quote? Drying in 5 seconds also scares me a bit.


Yeah I had to call them for a quote. They told me 10.00 per sq ft.

I know my local dealer does boats all the time. So I dont think the high temp or pressure would be an issue with the boat. Now other boats near by may need to be moved or covered im not sure.

I know they also still provide the lifetime warrenty when sprayed on a boat so thats great
 

johnnyv49

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Re: Durabak any good?

Just add a question to this. Im looking at durabak as well for the decks on a 28 coastal. The boat was painted with west marine topside paint. I am sanding it down to the original gelcoat and respraying all of the "finished" areas. The decks and front flat area are done in the same paint but sanded.

Do I have to sand all the way down through that sand paint or can I just cut it rough with a wheel or 40 grit? Will durabak adhere to that?
IMG_2298.jpg
 

JASinIL2006

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Re: Durabak any good?

I'd email the Durabak folks. They're very helpful. (At least, they were for me.)
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Durabak any good?

Do I have to sand all the way down through that sand paint or can I just cut it rough with a wheel or 40 grit? Will durabak adhere to that?
Like many surfaces that require prep, it's not just whether Durabak will adhere to your paint it's whether the paint (covered w/ Durabak) will remain stuck to the boat......

You want to prep the boat for Durabak, and unless you want Durabak stuck to paint, that may or may not remain stuck to the boat, you need to remove the paint.
 

Axkiker

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Re: Durabak any good?

Just add a question to this. Im looking at durabak as well for the decks on a 28 coastal. The boat was painted with west marine topside paint. I am sanding it down to the original gelcoat and respraying all of the "finished" areas. The decks and front flat area are done in the same paint but sanded.

Do I have to sand all the way down through that sand paint or can I just cut it rough with a wheel or 40 grit? Will durabak adhere to that?
View attachment 228246

I have no practical experience applying durabak so take my advice with a grain of salt. I also have been looking into the different bedliner coatings for marine applications. I sent off for several samples from different companies (durabak) being one of them. From what I can tell Durabak feels a lot like Hurculiner which is fairly rubbery. Hurculiner and I believe Durabak are both one part coatings. I installed Hurculiner in a truck years ago and was less than happy with it. It was soft enough you could literally pick it off with your fingernail.

From what I can tell by feeling the samples and talking with some people the other coatings such as UpolRaptor, Monstaliner, Al's, are all 2 part coatings and dry much harder. The feel is much more similar to a Linex type coating. Now im not saying they are as tough or as good as Linex. Im just saying to me they seem like a better alternative.

Just wanted to throw that out there and advise if you are going down this road to check into some of the other 2 part coatings as well.
 
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