Dual axle ?

[Silvertip]

Re: Dual axle ?

If you can move the actuator (coupler) by hand, the fluid level is low or empty, or the brakes are in need of adjustment. If the fluid level is low, check each brake for leaks, then refill the system and bleed them.

 

[SpinnerBait_Nut]

Re: Dual axle ?

The fluid level was low but not empty. Leads me to think shoes are out of adjustment or pads are wore down.<br />Will check them today.

 

[SpinnerBait_Nut]

Re: Dual axle ?

Well, they are disk. The one side is kinda clean, but the other has some rust on the rotor so I guess next will be to bleed them.<br />What's the best and easiest way of going about this?

 

[Reel Poor]

Re: Dual axle ?

A vacuum bleeder is the easiest way to bleed the hydraulic system.<br /><br />If the system was not empty, and NO work has been done on the hydraulic system, they should not require bleeding. <br /><br />Check to see if calipers slide freely on slide pins {will require collapsing piston back into caliper bore first}.<br /><br />My disk brake trailer WILL NOT back-up unless brake LineLock switch is activated. Not eeeeven with a tractor.

 

[rwidman]

Re: Dual axle ?

next will be to bleed them.<br />What's the best and easiest way of going about this?

You can buy a "one man bleeder" kit for about $6.00 at an auto supply store. Follow the instructions that come with the kit, substituting "working the actuator" for "pushing the brake pedal".<br /><br />Get full instructions here:<br /><br /> http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html#bleed_brakes

 

[rwidman]

Re: Dual axle ?

Originally posted by SBN:<br /> The fluid level was low but not empty. Leads me to think shoes are out of adjustment or pads are wore down.<br />Will check them today.

You can't adjust disk brakes.

 

[rwidman]

Re: Dual axle ?

Testing the brakes:<br /><br />1. Jack up one side and have an assistant spin the wheel(s). Use a screwdriver or the 2X4 method to compress the actuator. The spinning wheel should stop abruptly. Now do the other side.<br /><br />2. If the brakes are working, the disks or drums will heat up. Drive in traffic for a few miles and then feel the disks or drums. The disks or drums will be hot to the touch. A non-contact infared thermometer is a great diagnostic tool for this. It can tell you if one side is working and the other is not or if one side is doing most of the braking.<br /><br />There should be only a slight "clunking" with properly functioning surge brakes.

 

[kence]

Re: Dual axle ?

The clunk you are hearing is normal and occurs when the actuator is pulled out or compressed by the tow vehicle. I think that model has a shock absorber inside that is supposed to buffer the clunk but can wear out. The newer models actually use brake fluid as a hydraulic dampner in the master cylinder and the clunk is almost negligible. If you have rust on one side, I would suggest that you need to bleed your brakes or make sure that the caliper is sliding on the pins.