Dry joint Riser on Non- dry joint Manifold?

[Ragazzoni]

Hi! As I am quite new on the forum I hope you bsre with my noob- questions..

I have a merc 5,7 from around -97 with vortecs.
Seller said 315 hp, but was lying about longblock age.. said -06

We got the heads planar and valves taken care of..Boat is moving ok (Donzi Ragazza 25) with temp 2-barrel holley.. but Water in oil.. we hope its old and will drain and change a couple of times more, but Im worried about risers as some water is seeping out (new manifolds last year, changed by a guy borrowing the boat) ...

I actually think it looks like the risers are dry joint... but the manifolds definetely not!!
I will take them off when I get the chance, but for now, anyone got a clue?





Any input would be apprechiated!
/Björn ,Sweden

 

[Bt Doctur]

Yes, dry-joint type

 

[alldodge]

I have to disagree, those are not dry joint. The dry joint mans are sealed Those are standard mans with 6 inch risers and elbows

These are dry joints without risers

 

[Bt Doctur]

I retract my post, never looked at the last pic. but then again have never seen risers that take a dry joint gasket

 

[Bt Doctur]

If there are threads in the large holes on the manifold them there standard manifolds and a plug is supposed to be in each hole. The risers are dry joint type and are not made for standard manifolds, There is no gasket made to adapt dry joint elbow to a standard manifold
This guy who borrowed your boat is not your friend.

 

[Scott06]

Maybe Volvo penta manifold and merc dry joint elbow? Clearly a joint was involved in who fit this up with four tubes of rtv.

 

[Ragazzoni]

Thanks for the replies! Awesome to get input fromm ppl who know better

I have located the old manifold.. and it was dry joint.. : And have been at see for an hour or so maxing a couple of times... water in oil.. Temp in engine ok even with this misfit...

Now the choice is... get new no- dry joint elbows to fit the mans, as they are ”new”.. or get new mans And elbows to get better technology and maybe better compatibility with hoses and termostats etc..

Anybody know if a lot needs to be changed in hoses to use non dry joint?

 

[Scott06]

I don't think your hoses need to be changed but I would consider getting the dry joint manifolds vs converting to non dry joint. If you boat in saltwater where there is the chance for manifold and elbow corrosion, the dry joint won't leak water into your exhaust if it leaks like the older non dry joint style . Yes costs more but probably worth it in salt water. If in fresh water onl non dry joint works fine for many years

 

[Ragazzoni]

I guess you are right.. Thank you very much for the input!

 

[Bt Doctur]

Your friend should get an award for "Creative Engineering" and another for "Gasket Adaptation "

 

[Ragazzoni]

Yeah.. I wonder what I will find between where there suppose to be blindcaps (nondry) and oringed seals (dry) ... only gasket sealant?

About to order non dry elbows.. but a bit worried about exhaust tube.. as they are 7 deg on wet, and I thin mine look like 14 deg.. cast iron almost(?) meet inside that short rubbertube.. and will be a strange strainy offset.. next time boat <10” with oars..

 

[Ragazzoni]

Maybe Volvo penta manifold and merc dry joint elbow? Clearly a joint was involved in who fit this up with four tubes of rtv.

Btw - What do you mean with ”...four tubes of rtv” ?

 

[alldodge]

About to order non dry elbows.. but a bit worried about exhaust tube.. as they are 7 deg on wet, and I thin mine look like 14 deg.. cast iron almost(?) meet inside that short rubbertube.. and will be a strange strainy offset.. next time boat <10” with oars..

Sorry but I'm not following

You think your elbows are 14 degrees, but the wet ones are 7 degrees. Then there is an exhaust tube (maybe exhaust boot) and the elobs don't line up with the Y pipe, maybe???

 

[Ragazzoni]

Sorry but I'm not following

You think your elbows are 14 degrees, but the wet ones are 7 degrees. Then there is an exhaust tube (maybe exhaust boot) and the elobs don't line up with the Y pipe, maybe???

Exactly.. The rubber hose from riser/ elbow to the next cast and bent tube (secondary elbow?) (before getting to second rubber and flapper in Y-pipe) ... is quite short and would have to have a parallell as well as angular offset. Guess I could ”steal” half an inch from below.. just above flappers and then buy bendable 4” hose.. but it seems bad in many aspects..

A guy in another thread did conversion the other (reasonable) way around, and said it was more or less plug and play... so I messed him to see if he remember this issue.. Someone said change thermostat housing, but no clue why.. If I didnt get the boat for free from tired brother and spent summer -15 messing with it, I’d get new dry kit... but not much money to spend and only wet elbows is the cheapest way to get a summer (the best day of the year in Gothenburg, Sweden) on the ocean... (if it works....)

 

[alldodge]

I have a box full of 4 inch boots of various types, also have some other exhaust tubes when I was trying to re-plumb my thru hull exhaust. In short there is hardly any bending of the exhaust boots.

I think your going to need 14 degree elbows.

Just for further clarifications so we are discussing the same items. Most time folks say risers when they are talking about elbows. We go along with the term so long as actual risers are not being used. In your first pic, you have risers and elbows. There are two kinds of elbows, the ones above manifolds and the ones which connect the elbows above the mans to the Y-pupe

 

[Scott06]

Btw - What do you mean with ”...four tubes of rtv” ?

ok that was my attempt at a joke as I looked like they just used a lot of gasket sealant (rtv) instead of fitting the correct parts.

 

[Ragazzoni]

Ok. I dont have any risers at all then. Risers are almost synonymous with ”spacer” -Only to get the creek sufficiently above sea level?

What I called secondary elbow is -”exhaust pipe elbow”

The c- exhaust hose is oval towards exhaust shutter on mine- otherwise a slightly longer one would raise the exhaust pipe elbow a bit and maybe one of these could take the angle inflicted by the other kind of exhaust elbow- Standard hose 4” should be possible to force to oval at one end ?


or maybe I shoul go for these that we found lying around ...



bit too low though I guess... shame

 

[Ragazzoni]

ok that was my attempt at a joke as I looked like they just used a lot of gasket sealant (rtv) instead of fitting the correct parts.

Ok Yes- I dont think he will mind me telling him to read this thread He is a nice guy, even though I recon he’ll feel a bit embarresed with this mix. We (my brother/ prev owner) paid for the wrong parts.. but his intentions were all good

 

[alldodge]

There is no way I would go with these, they look like problems with reversion waiting to happen

After looking again I see you don't have any risers. One of the pics looked like one due to it was taken so close.

Might be able to find some good used fresh water ones. I pulled the ones off my 95 BB and they look good. Found some used on ebay, and could also post on OSO wanted section and see what folks have to offer

Diamond Performance has some EMI full sets for 1142, but that is some coin

 

[Ragazzoni]

There is no way I would go with these, they look like problems with reversion waiting to happen


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After looking again I see you don't have any risers. One of the pics looked like one due to it was taken so close.

Might be able to find some good used fresh water ones. I pulled the ones off my 95 BB and they look good. Found some used on ebay, and could also post on OSO wanted section and see what folks have to offer

Diamond Performance has some EMI full sets for 1142, but that is some coin

Yes, the stainless homemade feels risky.. might cut them open an raise them and make sure to prevent reversion..
But thats for the future... I will ha a look at evay etc. Thx!