Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

[Scramblerkidd]

I bought a 1991 Ranger 362V with the same year GT150. The boat was sitting for 1.5 years. The fuel just started to turn bad. So playing it safe I pulled, cleaned and rebuilt the carbs with OEM kits. After reinstalling I noticed the fuel bowls leak. From what I have read this is a common problem with these plastic fuel bowls with age. Okay here is my dilemma... Do I buy the updated/improved aluminum fuel bowls and idle jets for around $360 for what I have, or spend $100 more for three new complete 150hp carbs or gain 25hp by buying 175hp carbs? I'm sure the complete carbs will have plastic fuel bowls but if they last five years I don't mind. So what route would you take?

 

[sutor623]

Re: Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

spend $100 more for three new complete 150hp carbs

This one.

 

[boobie]

Re: Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

Did you try re-surfacing the bowls on a thick piece of glass with the correct sand paper??

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

You don't need to replace the carbs. The GT/XP 150 engines came stock from the factory with large-throated 175 carbs. Those engines put out right at 165 hp-stock. All of the original factory plastic carb bowls warp and leak fuel over time. Also, when some of the bowls warp, they can allow extra air to get into the fuel mixture-causing the engine to run lean at high rpm's. Just replace the carb bowls. If you order factory replacements, you will get superceded aluminum bowls. You will need to buy new drain screws, as the ones from the plastic bowls won't fit in the new aluminum bowls. Same for one of the two jets in the bowl. The thread size of the small jet in the bowl is different from the thread size in the new bowl. You will have to purchase 6 replacement jets (with the same size opening) with the new thread size. The 6 main jets should transfer to the new bowls. Sounds like a hassle, but is actually not a difficult task. You will be happy with the results when you are done.

 

[Scramblerkidd]

Re: Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

sutor623, If the complete carbs came with aluminum bowls I'd jump on the option. But I'm sure they will be NOS with plastic bowls.

boobie, Only problem with re-surfacing plastic parts is the mating surface will be thinner and will fail sooner. Thanks anyway.

emdsapmgr, From what I read in a parts description only idle jets need also be purchased. Not doubting you,just want to be sure to order ever thing the first time. GT's came with big throat carbs? Cool! Thanks for the tech info!

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

The small jets in the bowl which will need to be replaced are the intermediate jets. The idle air bleeds are in the throat of the carb body and won't need replacing. If your carbs have a .030 intermediate, it will be a 333312, which is a "C type jet. You will need to get the same size in a 8/32 thread size.

 

[boobie]

Re: Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

If you don't have to take to much off to resurface you may save some bucks. If it was my mtr I'd try it first.

 

[clanton]

Re: Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

60 degree looper, or 90 degree crossflow engine. Model number would help.

 

[wired247]

Re: Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

crossflow or looper?

 

[Scramblerkidd]

Re: Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

60 degree looper, or 90 degree crossflow engine. Model number would help.

1991 J150STLEIE.

I going the aluminum bowl route. One thing I have learned over the years is that 99% of the time Caucasian Modifications just causes more work in the end. Where I'll be operating this boat here in SC, I really don't want an engine fire then have to abandon ship and swim to shore. For three reasons...
1 Gators
2 snakes
3 I swim like a rock!

For what I paid for the boat, I really don't mind spending a few dollars on it.
Thanks for all the input!

 

[clanton]

Re: Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

Thanks for the model number, Both the 60 degree looper and the 90 degree crossflow were made that year. Pricey arn`t they.

Your engine 90 degree crossflow.

 

[wired247]

Re: Dreaded fuel bowl leak.

Then just spend a few dollars and not a bunch of dollars. You can use just about any crossflow bowls on that carb set including good old used ones. You can usually pick up a good used set of carbs for less than $50 off ebay. V4 carbs will be your cheapest. Same thing as far as bowls go and most other parts. Carb spare parts galore.

1991 J150STLEIE.

I going the aluminum bowl route. One thing I have learned over the years is that 99% of the time Caucasian Modifications just causes more work in the end. Where I'll be operating this boat here in SC, I really don't want an engine fire then have to abandon ship and swim to shore. For three reasons...
1 Gators
2 snakes
3 I swim like a rock!

For what I paid for the boat, I really don't mind spending a few dollars on it.
Thanks for all the input!