DPS-A corrosion

[saaristo]

Crawled under the boat tarp the other day thinking what should be done and updated and so on. One thing that caught my eye was corrosion on the outdrive. Is that something that should be addressed somehow or is it superficial and rather a thing of visual appearance?
And if it should be fixed then how - sandpaper on those patches and some (epoxy?) primer plus top coat from the car paint store according to VP color code?

 

[BRICH1260]

I would address that immediately, not fatal now but it will only get worse which could lead to bigger troubles. I would pull the drive and use a brass wire brush or coarse sandpaper and get the corrosion off and down to bare metal. Then prime with zinc chromate primer and repaint with Volvo spray paint. You might also check the status of your anodes and make sure they are of the proper metals and replace as necessary.

 

[saaristo]

Thanks BRICH for the "wake up call" if I can say so. Decided now to deal with this issue before the season and immediately run into problems and questions.
From the research in the web found that the correct procedure would be:
- sand down the corroded areas
- fill voids with epoxy (J-B Weld)
- then alumiprep
- then alodine
- then primer (zinc-chromate)
- finish (acrylic) + clear coat (acrylic)

However, found out that neither alumiprep or alodine is available here in my country (environmental restrictions).

So, whats next? Myself I was thinking the following:
- sand down the ugly spots and mat the rest of the drive
- fill the voids with J-B Weld or maybe automotive epoxy filler
- apply self-etching (2K maybe?) primer on the whole drive
- then finish (2K)+ clear coat (1K acrylic)

However, the self etching primers are either 1K or 2K and for sure the 2K is far better choice against corrosion but is there a risk that it will react to that original VP paint (who knows what it is there originally...maybe powder coated at all?)

Thanks for any input.

 

[alldodge]

Assuming this isn't from just one year, and looks as the drive has not been removed for alignment and bellows check.

The JB will fill voids so the paint will look better but won't offer more protection then a good paint job. Filler can also hid things until they develop enough to break the filler back off

 

[BRICH1260]

Thanks BRICH for the "wake up call" if I can say so. Decided now to deal with this issue before the season and immediately run into problems and questions.
From the research in the web found that the correct procedure would be:
- sand down the corroded areas
- fill voids with epoxy (J-B Weld)
- then alumiprep
- then alodine
- then primer (zinc-chromate)
- finish (acrylic) + clear coat (acrylic)

However, found out that neither alumiprep or alodine is available here in my country (environmental restrictions).

So, whats next? Myself I was thinking the following:
- sand down the ugly spots and mat the rest of the drive
- fill the voids with J-B Weld or maybe automotive epoxy filler
- apply self-etching (2K maybe?) primer on the whole drive
- then finish (2K)+ clear coat (1K acrylic)

However, the self etching primers are either 1K or 2K and for sure the 2K is far better choice against corrosion but is there a risk that it will react to that original VP paint (who knows what it is there originally...maybe powder coated at all?)

Thanks for any input.

Ideally that might be what you need to do but like you said, some steps are not available. When I did mine, I just sanded down to bare metal, filled with JB weld paste, resanded and primed with zinc chromate and painted over that. After four years it is still good. One of the main things to remember is do not use a steel wire brush and make sure you get down to the bare metal, don`t paint over existing corrosion, sealing it in.

 

[saaristo]

BRICH - there's like 20 different JB-s available. I'm assuming your's was JB Marineweld? The top paint was some 2K PUR/poly or 1K acrylic?
Is your boat btw wetslipped or trailer/lift kept?

 

[BRICH1260]

BRICH - there's like 20 different JB-s available. I'm assuming your's was JB Marineweld? The top paint was some 2K PUR/poly or 1K acrylic?
Is your boat btw wetslipped or trailer/lift kept?

I just used the regular JB Weld. As for paint, I just used the Volvo SX silver right out of a spray can, then sprayed with clear coat. Not going to lie, at the end of the year, the drive is dirty and will need a good cleaning, but the corrosion has never come back.

 

[eagle787]

Thanks BRICH for the "wake up call" if I can say so. Decided now to deal with this issue before the season and immediately run into problems and questions.
From the research in the web found that the correct procedure would be:
- sand down the corroded areas
- fill voids with epoxy (J-B Weld)
- then alumiprep
- then alodine
- then primer (zinc-chromate)
- finish (acrylic) + clear coat (acrylic)

However, found out that neither alumiprep or alodine is available here in my country (environmental restrictions).

So, whats next? Myself I was thinking the following:
- sand down the ugly spots and mat the rest of the drive
- fill the voids with J-B Weld or maybe automotive epoxy filler
- apply self-etching (2K maybe?) primer on the whole drive
- then finish (2K)+ clear coat (1K acrylic)

However, the self etching primers are either 1K or 2K and for sure the 2K is far better choice against corrosion but is there a risk that it will react to that original VP paint (who knows what it is there originally...maybe powder coated at all?)