Downrigger set up help

[rolmops]

Re: Downrigger set up help

So I got it set up and took it out fishing. I need to work out the details of how to operate it with the line release, seems like that will be the most challenging. I am using a cannon release. Does anyone have a recommendation as to how to set this for trout in the 12 to 14“ range? Do I put the line in the middle or near the edge?

I didn’t catch anything on it but I believe I got two hits. The line popped out of the release. I am not sure if this is the correct way of rigging the release bu I let out about 30 feet before hooking it to the release, I think this may be why I missed the fish. How far back should I fish my flashers from the weight?

Most releases are made for bigger than 12 inch fish.The solution is a rubber band You can twist the rubber band around your line and stick the other end in the release.The hit will make your rod tip dance and that way you will notice.If the fish is bigger it will simple pop the band out of the release or snap it.
As for distance between ball and flasher. It is not so important. It is way more important to have your lure or fly somewhere between 17 and 20 inches away from your flasher while trolling at a speed that will give your lures the right kind of action.My trolling speed is usually around 2.3 in early spring and as the water gets warmer I speed up to 2.9 or even 3.2 (this speed at the ball,not GPS or water surface speed).
In Lake Ontario it is often hard to work stacked lures at the right speed because of different currents at different depths. It works a bit better when the lures are within 10 feet of each other.
As for the easy-troll, forget about the easy part.Manually raising a 10 or 13 pound torpedo is very hard work. Also, since you have a single down rigger you should try to get it at "six o'clock" the bow being "12 o'clock", because your boat will try to pivot around any single down rigger sticking out to the side of your boat.
Good luck.

 

[Mark_VTfisherman]

Re: Downrigger set up help

Catching up on some reading...always hoping to learn something.

Ditto on the Chamberlain release! They are excellent and can be set super-light or torqued right up. I have use the Blacks on some other people's boats and I have to say I like them - but as long as I can get or use a Chamberlain I will not buy the Blacks release- Chamberlain Releases are just too good, simple to use, and although they work well on big fish they are even more superb on smaller fish- basically the only one you can use if you are fishing where an 8# fish is a trophy.

I did like the rubber-band trick but you don't need it with a Chamberlain Release.

Kudos to rolmops for his post. 5 MPH!!!! was posted in a prior post and that is wicked fast! In ideal water temps on Champlain we can do 3.2mph for landlocks and steelhead- sometimes more. But the range is 2.0 to 3.1 usually.

I run 10# balls and prefer the fish-shaped weights but currently have one ball and one fish-shaped. I don't like the blow-back of 8# and ligher cannon balls. Flashers/blades/bling can be attached directly to the ball behind or above and the release is usually above any vertical attractors. I seldom use bling here in Vermont (Champlain) but a lot of guys do. Last monday we connected on about 5 fish in 3 hours trolling, but another boat running blades stuck 32 salmon and 7 lake trout in about 7 hours. Bling was likely part of the difference ....from many a discussion by Lake O regulars I hear that sometimes on Great Lakes they can be necessary to sticking fish with any frequency.

Sliders/cheaters: I don't like true "sliders" as it is hard to replicate an exact depth with any consistency with a free slider. Instead, I use a small clip that affixes to the line in a fixed position. That way when I am 10' (or 6', 15', or whatever) above the ball with the cheater I can reset after a strike and duplicate the depth. Alternatively, if bottom lure isn't getting hits but the top is, I can bring the bottom higher and lower the top one closer to the "magic" depth accordingly.