Does this gear and clutch dog look ok?

clemsonfor

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This is my late father in laws boat. The motor was not engaging fwd when I started working on it for my brother in law. The shift coupler wasn't together right. And I adjusted it where it now had Foward and reverse. It was leaking so now I am resealing the lower unit and looking at the fwd gear and clutch since it was out of adjustment at some point.

How do they look? Serviceable or not worth putting back together? The gear is the Foward gear and then the clutch dog.
 

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clemsonfor

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I know there is wear. But I'm more asking if it would be serviceable? There still is a lot of meat there but I am not knowledgeable on how square that shoulder needs to be to allow that dog to engage the gear. Can you swap the clutch dog around like I have heard you can do? This would give the Foward a stronger engagement obviously but that won't fix the Foward gear shoulder.
 

clemsonfor

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So I have read a few posts and it says any rounding of the dog and gears is un acceptable, which I have on both. The clutch dog looks worse. I guess a question is would it be worth it to swap the clutch dog with the visible rounding on the Foward gear?
 

jimmbo

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So I have read a few posts and it says any rounding of the dog and gears is un acceptable, which I have on both. The clutch dog looks worse. I guess a question is would it be worth it to swap the clutch dog with the visible rounding on the Foward gear?
Only if you want to be taking it apart again soon.
I suspect your Father in Law was one of those who 'Eased' it into gear. That, and shifting at too high of a RPM, is what causes the most damage.
I know my Dad and My Uncle had some Big Twins from the Late 50s where they would swap the Forward and Reverse Gears as well as the Clutch Dog, as the reverse gear often had less wear. Bushing/Bearings for the gears also had to be swapped to remain in the proper locations on the Propshaft. I don't know if that can be done on your motor. If so, You do so at your own Risk.
 

clemsonfor

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Only if you want to be taking it apart again soon.
I suspect your Father in Law was one of those who 'Eased' it into gear. That, and shifting at too high of a RPM, is what causes the most damage.
I know my Dad and My Uncle had some Big Twins from the Late 50s where they would swap the Forward and Reverse Gears as well as the Clutch Dog, as the reverse gear often had less wear. Bushing/Bearings for the gears also had to be swapped to remain in the proper locations on the Propshaft. I don't know if that can be done on your motor. If so, You do so at your own Risk.
Yes he did like to ease it into gear! We didn't take this little 14 ft StarCraft out much but I'm sure he did it on this one, but I can really remember the pontoon he use to have, he would ease into that and I remember hearing those dogs clunk clunk clunk before he slipped it into gear. He probably thought he was being easy on it. He was actually an automotive mechanic, ASE Master Certified, but he never really messed with other stuff, I'm sure he has no idea how they worked and that he was causing damage.
 

racerone

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What motor is this ?-----And does the clutch dog have the spring and 2 balls ??----That detent was designed to hold it in neutral so it would snap into gear.-----The above easy shifting is one reason why the OMC motors used the hydro-electric shift for a few years , ( 1968 to 1972 ) they shifted quickly with oil pressure..-----The tendency of " granny shifting " was eliminated.-----I would replace the gear and the dog.-----And make sure linkages were properly adjusted.
 

ahicks

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Having more time than money, and willing to pull it back down if it didn't work out OK, I'd be tempted to give them a try. And if the clutch dog were reversible, I'd do that too.

If I were working on a customers boat, I'd have to change them.
 

racerone

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Many clutch dogs today are marked and will only fit one way.-----We still do not know what motor this is.
 

clemsonfor

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What motor is this ?-----And does the clutch dog have the spring and 2 balls ??----That detent was designed to hold it in neutral so it would snap into gear.-----The above easy shifting is one reason why the OMC motors used the hydro-electric shift for a few years , ( 1968 to 1972 ) they shifted quickly with oil pressure..-----The tendency of " granny shifting " was eliminated.-----I would replace the gear and the dog.-----And make sure linkages were properly adjusted.
This is a 73 Evinrude 25HP. Sorry I forgot we like that info uptop. Yes it has the spring and two detent balls.
 

racerone

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Good used clutch dog and gear may be available.-----You have to win the state lottery to buy new parts.-----The detent set up is for neutral.----And it loads up the linkages to get a quick shift out of neutral.----Of course a determined operator with a remote control can still damage these parts ! or if motor idles too fast one can damage these parts.
 

clemsonfor

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Good used clutch dog and gear may be available.-----You have to win the state lottery to buy new parts.-----The detent set up is for neutral.----And it loads up the linkages to get a quick shift out of neutral.----Of course a determined operator with a remote control can still damage these parts ! or if motor idles too fast one can damage these parts.
Ding ding ding, a remote shifted engine. It was all kinds of monkeyed with. When I first got my hands on it the shifter shaft was disconnected. I tried to put it in and someone had it so tight that it wouldn't go all the way down and let the bolt capture the linkage in the notch on the haft from the engine side. And the shifter was all out of adjustment, I'm not sure who, but think my father in law had some part in that but not all. I think someone buggered it up that he had work on it at some point. The pivot screw for the shifter was pretty much stripped out my attempt finished it off. I had to cut new groves with a chisel to get it out.
 

clemsonfor

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Ok brother in law said put all new stuff in their. It's his motor and he is footing the bill. Found and bought them off eBay. These things are getting like hens teeth it seems.
 

clemsonfor

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Ok I'm back here. Problem has come up. I got all the parts and was going to put thing back together. Turns out the gear o got was an original style that uses a thrust washer and the bronze/brass bushing for the fwd gear. The motor had the newer needle bearing replacement setup. No big deal but you just can't mix the two. I have ordered a thrust washer and need to order the old style bushing. I found this about the bushing is keyed..see attached screen shot. What is it keyed too. I see a hole in the cradle but nothing bis there, do I need a dowel pin? It's been a few days since I was messing with it and don't remember exactly how the shaft and case are setup. I just need to figure out if there is an additional part I need.Screenshot_20220511-123142.png
 

racerone

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There was a pin in the upper housing !-----The purpose is to locate that bushing for proper operation of the lubrication grooves !----It keeps it from spinning but main purpose is for lubrication.----Just drill a hole press in a pin near the original pin and assemble
 

clemsonfor

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There was a pin in the upper housing !-----The purpose is to locate that bushing for proper operation of the lubrication grooves !----It keeps it from spinning but main purpose is for lubrication.----Just drill a hole press in a pin near the original pin and assemble
Wouldn't the pin have been removed when the needle bearing set was installed? Just wondering. I did notice a hole in the upper portion (pinion side of the case) in the cradle the bearing sits in . There is a pin in the prop side still.
 

racerone

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Why make it difficult !!----I can not see your housing.-----Sometimes the pin is hammered in.-----Others may remove the pin.-----Just put a pin in there somehow to put the bushing in the right position !
 

clemsonfor

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Why make it difficult !!----I can not see your housing.-----Sometimes the pin is hammered in.-----Others may remove the pin.-----Just put a pin in there somehow to put the bushing in the right position !
Will look at it this evening.
 

clemsonfor

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The pin is busted off below the level of the bearing cradle as I will call it.
 
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