does anybody know?

[mucduc]

today i got a free motor. was told it runs. no clue of the make, model, or year. i have not fired it up yet. i havent been able to find any tags or numbers on the motor. all i know is that it is old. can anyone help me?

 

[F_R]

Re: does anybody know?

Heck yeah, that is a Goodyear Sea Bee, from the 1950's. Made by Gale division of OMC. It is missing the recoil starter. When complete and painted up it is so ugly that it is beautiful.

 

[mucduc]

Re: does anybody know?

wow you are awesome. that is great. do you know much about that motor? i didnt even think that motor would have a recoil. there is spark, but not a half inch jump like on modern motors. there is compression turning the crank, but i havent put a guage on it yet. do you know what the compression should be around? and also how to take the cover off of where you pull start the motor, to get to the spark plug wires and points?

 

[F_R]

Re: does anybody know?

Nah, they won't have a 1/2" spark. 1/4" is more than enough. Yours probably has the "old" OMC magneto with the magnet in the center instead of in the flywheel. Those are almost bulletproof. If the breaker points are clean and gapped at .020" it is good to go.

If I am correct, that motor has a built-in flywheel puller. Just loosen the nut, then keep turning it and it will get tight again. Keep turning it harder and the flywheel will pop off. But if I'm on the wrong model, remove the remains of the recoil starter from the flywheel, remove the nut, and use a harmonic balancer puller to get the flywheel off.

I don't know the actual desired numbers, but would expect around 75 psi compression.

You didn't ask, but whatever you do, do not remove the side covers from the cylinder block. You will never get them sealed up again if you do.

 

[mucduc]

Re: does anybody know?

If I am correct, that motor has a built-in flywheel puller. Just loosen the nut, then keep turning it and it will get tight again. Keep turning it harder and the flywheel will pop off. But if I'm on the wrong model, remove the remains of the recoil starter from the flywheel, remove the nut, and use a harmonic balancer puller to get the flywheel off.

I believe you are correct about the built in puller. there is a ring that is around the nut for the fly wheel. when loosening that nut it snugs up on the pull start wheel. I didnt wrench on it cause i didnt want to break it.

do yall know what area i should move this thread to to get more answers. im guessing evinrude/johnson? maybe? i dont know.

 

[steelespike]

Re: does anybody know?

You should be able to get help right here at iboats.
The motor isn't closely related to the E/J motors though it may share ignition parts with the TD series Johnsons and most parts with the many private label motors built by Gale.Is it a twin or a single?
You may find reprint factory manuals here at iboats.You could also try www.aomci.org
for help.

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: does anybody know?

<do yall know what area i should move this thread to to get more answers. im guessing evinrude/johnson? maybe? i dont know.>

You're EXACTLY where you need to be! FR is THE Gale man whether here or on the AOMCI site!

Be sure to heed his warning about NOT removing the side covers on the block! Even the factory service manual advised dealer mechanics that if they did so the motor would have to be returned to the factory to be resealed.

I have a couple of the 5 horse Gale 'wedgies'. When you get the cowl off you'll understand the nickname. Frankly I think they were a better motor than they were credited with. I'm something of a 'nut' about the 5 horse Johnson TD/TN series of the same era but my Gales run stronger.

If you get 75 PSI tested cold & dry you'll be in business bigtime! IIRC I've seen wedgies run strong and idle nice at 10 PSI less.

Chances are very good indeed that you'll need NO parts to get it running! Just sanitize magneto plate and parts, polish the points & reset, THOROUGHLY sanitize the complete fuel system from the vent in the gascap to the intake and you should be good to go unless the old cork float needs to be re-sealed. (use clear model airplane 'dope' or thin superglue or a very thin coat of epoxy) If it's too far gone they're easy to make with a hardware store cork & a little elbow grease---just seal it as above. You may have to make a gasket for the floatbowl but it's an easy one.

Get her going and enjoy getting hooked on old outboards.

 

[F_R]

Re: does anybody know?

My '53 Gale 5hp with neutral clutch was 20% faster than my '53 TN Johnson that used the same identical lower unit and prop. A lot noisier too.

 

[mucduc]

Re: does anybody know?

you guys seem to know a lot about these motors. do yall know where i can find more info on specifics to my motor. since i dont even know the year it may kinda difficult to find stuff.

i believe you are correct about not taking any parts to get running. the guy said it runs. there does seem to have decent pressure, there is a 1/4in spark on the top. the bottom wire end was all messed up so i couldnt put a tester on. now all i have to worry about is fuel.

are these motors water cooled? i dont see anywhere on the foot that would take up water, and i cant find a telltale.

 

[unclepete2o]

Re: does anybody know?

I want a free boat motor... your lucky

 

[steelespike]

Re: does anybody know?

Did you check for a manual here at iboats.You also may find one on ebay.either original or an after market.It is water cooled.You'll see water intakes in the prop
hub near the base of the blades. There is a pump infront of the prop. I call it a wobbler.It is likely swollen from lower unit lube.(105 libriplate grease)They are available.

 

[mucduc]

Re: does anybody know?

I want a free boat motor... your lucky

i was excited about it. it was giving to my girlfriends dad from a friend. her dad has a bunch of old tools hanging on the wall, and the friend said he could have it to hang from the ceiling in the living room. my girlfriends mom did not think that was such a good idea haha.

i will have to check out the pump and all when i get home tomorrow.

do yall know if i can take the fuel tank apart. it looks like its a 2 part tank with bolts holding it, but not sure if it would seal when i put it back together. there aint a lot of rust in the tank but it looks like a normal fuel tank that has been sitting in a garage with no fuel in it for years.

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: does anybody know?

<i will have to check out the pump and all when i get home tomorrow.>

See process here:

<http://hoodad.fortunecity.com/hiawatha.html>

I buy obsolete rotors (the pump element on your motor) and impellers from Brian Wilcox. Call for info: <http://www.chrystine.com/impellers/order.html>

<do yall know if i can take the fuel tank apart. it looks like its a 2 part tank with bolts holding it, but not sure if it would seal when i put it back together.>

I've never even seen one exactly like yours up close but most OMC tanks of the era were formed from aluminum sheet and bonded together.

<there aint a lot of rust in the tank but it looks like a normal fuel tank that has been sitting in a garage with no fuel in it for years.>

If it's the normal OMC aluminum tank there is NO rust in it! The rusty color is from old gas---'varnish'---and must be removed from stem to stern before use because gasohol will just keep melting a little at a time and clogging up all your previous attempts to clean everything else in the fuel system. That is exactly why I used the word 'sanitize' in my previous description of fuel system cleaning. Here's a good piece on the subject: <http://www.pochefamily.org/outboard/FuelValveCleanout.html>

Instructions on removing the Gale carb here: <http://hoodad.fortunecity.com/seaking5gale.html>

Excellent thread on carb cleaners still on-going on the AOMCI site to be found at: <http://hoodad.fortunecity.com/seaking5gale.html>

With few exceptions there are no NOS parts available for your motor, but there are thousands of old Gales motors around that are suitable parts donors for very little $.

Research the AOMCI site for a HUGE amount of good info on the Gale wedgies in the archives---it's all there if you can find it! HTH, Tom

 

[mucduc]

Re: does anybody know?

a lot of great info there thanks

i went on there website but you had to be a member, and at the time i was on there it was only going to be a brief period. i didnt even look to see how much it was to be a member.

i did find out that im not getting spark in the bottom spark plug. i did a continuity test and both spark plug wires are good. but the black round plastic part that has the magnet looks to be cracked. im not sure what its called. the whole ignition looks to be simple. can any of yall tell me what the name of each part is?

A?
B?
C?
D?
E?

 

[F_R]

Re: does anybody know?

A= coil
B= laminations, part of A
C= condenser
D= breaker points, I guess. Picture is dark
E= magnet/rotor.


???? you don't have to be a member for the Ax-A-Member pages. You can visit as a guest.

 

[mucduc]

Re: does anybody know?

oh ok cool. i will check them out tonight. sorry for the picture. E is something that looks like it holds a peice of felt agaist the crank shaft. i have the magnet rotor removed for the picture.

what are the chances that someone still sells these parts new? the system looks simple enough that it looks like it could be pieced together from other nonboat 2stroke motors.

 

[F_R]

Re: does anybody know?

Oh, ok, then it is a cam oiler wick so the plunger in the breaker points doesn' wear out as it rubs on the shaft/cam.

Except for you say the coil is cracked, you rarely really need any parts. Take the points apart and clean everything and polish the contacts shiny bright. Make sure you don't lose any of the many little insulators. Do one set at a time so you have a sample of how they go back together. New ones can be found if you look hard enough, but are expensive. The gap is .020" at the widest opening.

 

[mucduc]

Re: does anybody know?

ok the points look to be covered in a grayish grease. and the points looked to be riding against the shaft, there should be a gap between the points and the shaft?

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: does anybody know?

ok the points look to be covered in a grayish grease. and the points looked to be riding against the shaft, there should be a gap between the points and the shaft?

So long as you have a points gap of .020" you're good to go.

Grease associated with a magneto ignition system can do many bad things. It can act as an insulater to prevent the electrons getting to where they need to go or it can act as a conductor to take them to ground.

Do what both FR & I have already told you above---clean that mag plate and the parts mounted on it as though it was to be your dinner plate the rest of your life! If there's any rust on the coil shoes or the center magnetic rotor sand them down to bright steel and seal them with something. I use a LIGHT coat of clear spray acrylic (Krylon Clear) but in a pinch your wife's clear fingernail polish will work----if she doesn't catch you.

People on the AOMCI site have reported success at resealing cracked coils (IF that is all that is wrong with them!) by a long application of gentle heat to drive out any moisture and then coating the cracks with various nostrums from epoxy to Liquid Electrical Tape or tool handle dip.

The very last thing to do before putting the flywheel back on is to drag several strips of heavy brown paper or cardstock thru the points to make SURE that you haven't introduced any kind of grease---including your own fingerprints---on them.

If you will re-read our posts on the subject above & follow them to the letter I expect you'll have enough spark to fry meat!

 

[DECK SWABBER 58]

Re: does anybody know?

ok the points look to be covered in a grayish grease. and the points looked to be riding against the shaft, there should be a gap between the points and the shaft?

Not between the points and the shaft, between the contacts that open and
close. The shaft has lobes or "bumps". When the rubbing block of the points
hits the lobe it opens the contacts. Turn the motor until the rubbing block is
DEAD CENTER on the lobe and then measure the gap between the contacts.
Their should be a small dab of grease on the rubbing block to keep it from
wearing and decreasing the point gap.