Do you use non ethanol gas ?

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minnred

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I've owned many boats over my 83 years, and I've always ran regular gas. I was talking recently to a boat mechanic lately and we were discussing why some boat owners seem to have more trouble than others with maintenance on their motors. The subject came up about gas, and I mentioned that I've always just used regular gas, and haven't had much trouble with plugged carbs. He felt it was really important to only use non ethanol gas, which made me wonder just how the boating community feels about that subject, pro/con ? Locally, non ethanol gas is running at around $6.50 a gallon.
 

dingbat

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I've owned many boats over my 83 years, and I've always ran regular gas. I was talking recently to a boat mechanic lately and we were discussing why some boat owners seem to have more trouble than others with maintenance on their motors. The subject came up about gas, and I mentioned that I've always just used regular gas, and haven't had much trouble with plugged carbs. He felt it was really important to only use non ethanol gas, which made me wonder just how the boating community feels about that subject, pro/con ? Locally, non ethanol gas is running at around $6.50 a gallon.
I have no need for E0. My outboard owner's manual recommends 87 octane, unleaded fuel
 

JASinIL2006

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I think what your mechanic said is nonsense. Many of us run gas with ethanol in carbed motors with no ill effects. I think there were problems with some engines when ethanol first was introduced, as it tended to pick up contaminants and degrade some components not designed for ethanol. But ethanol has been added to gas for nearly 20 years.

My guess is that most people who have trouble with their engines could trace the roots to poor maintenance or buying bad gas, rather than ethanol.
 

JimS123

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I haven't had trouble with plugged carbs BECAUSE I run E10.

In my area they were selling this stuff to us for a couple years and we didn't know. Sure we all noticed a slight drop in mpg, but nobody had problems until after they told us.

Gotta have something to blame for poor maintenance.
 

minnred

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THANKS FOR THE REPLIES !

I'll just keep doing what I've always done.
I've owned many boats over my 83 years, and I've always ran regular gas. I was talking recently to a boat mechanic lately and we were discussing why some boat owners seem to have more trouble than others with maintenance on their motors. The subject came up about gas, and I mentioned that I've always just used regular gas, and haven't had much trouble with plugged carbs. He felt it was really important to only use non ethanol gas, which made me wonder just how the boating community feels about that subject, pro/con ? Locally, non ethanol gas is running at around $6.50 a gallon.
 

johnt_mn

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I buy non-ethanol for my small engines (chainsaw, mower, tiller, etc.) because I think it stores better and doesn't absorb as much water from the air. The BoatUS site says "E10 will sometimes form a mysterious gooey substance that will also clog filters". I've seen this gooey stuff in carburetors.
 

JimS123

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I buy non-ethanol for my small engines (chainsaw, mower, tiller, etc.) because I think it stores better and doesn't absorb as much water from the air. The BoatUS site says "E10 will sometimes form a mysterious gooey substance that will also clog filters". I've seen this gooey stuff in carburetors.
Its simply amazing to me how all the cwazy stuff gets disseminated. I use E10 in my garden stuff BECAUSE it stores better. Things like my tiller and chainsaw get used only once a year, and the gas is several years old. Still run perfect.

Gooey...OMG myths galore.

E10 ABSORBS water and makes it run thru the engine. It doesn't suck it up from the air. If it get gooey its because your tank condensated because it wasn't stored full and/or properly.
 

johnt_mn

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Oh, sorry to offend. I've had great luck with small engines since I switched to non-ethanol, but it's just anecdotal, I realize that. As is your experience of E10 storing better.
My Husqvarna chainsaw manual specifically recommends using non-ethanol fuel.

Do you disagree with the following statement clipped from the bobvila.com website:

Ethanol-blended gas lasts up to three months.

According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, most gasoline sold in the U.S. is “E10” gas made of 90 percent petroleum-based gas and 10 percent ethanol (ethyl alcohol). Ethanol-blended gas usually has a shelf life of up to three months because of the high speed at which ethanol oxidizes. Because ethanol is hydrophilic (a.k.a., water-loving), it will also readily absorb any water or humidity in a sealed container resulting from condensation, causing both moisture contamination of the fuel and the eventual separation of the fuel into distinct gas and ethanol layers. Generally, the higher the ethanol content in the gas, the shorter its shelf life, so E15 (15 percent ethanol content), E20 (20 percent ethanol), or E85 (85 percent ethanol) gas will expire sooner than E10 gas will.

Pure gasoline keeps for at least six months.

Petroleum-based gasoline without any ethanol will still succumb to oxidation and volatile compound evaporation in a sealed container or tank, but these processes usually occur more slowly in pure gasoline, so you can usually expect it to last at least six months when properly stored. Because pure gas is hydrophobic (a.k.a., water-hating), it doesn’t absorb water or humidity as ethanol-blended gas does, which allows you to avoid moisture contamination and fuel separation issues.
 
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airshot

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Yep, I use whatever is atvthe pump, mostly E10, never had any issues, now with that said....I do maintain my stuff !!! If I am not going to use the gas quickly I do add stabilizer. Many folks laugh at me for throwing money away on snake oil but....in the last 20 or so years that E10 has been on the market, I have not spent any money on repairs, where my neighbors that enjoy teasing me have spent money and hours cleaning and fixing engines that dont run right. Nothing wrong with E10, just add some stabilizer unless you use it up in 30 days.
 
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JASinIL2006

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Oh, sorry to offend. I've had great luck with small engines since I switched to non-ethanol, but it's just anecdotal, I realize that. As is your experience of E10 storing better.
My Husqvarna chainsaw manual specifically recommends using non-ethanol fuel.

Do you disagree with the following statement clipped from the bobvila.com website:

Ethanol-blended gas lasts up to three months.

According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, most gasoline sold in the U.S. is “E10” gas made of 90 percent petroleum-based gas and 10 percent ethanol (ethyl alcohol). Ethanol-blended gas usually has a shelf life of up to three months because of the high speed at which ethanol oxidizes. Because ethanol is hydrophilic (a.k.a., water-loving), it will also readily absorb any water or humidity in a sealed container resulting from condensation, causing both moisture contamination of the fuel and the eventual separation of the fuel into distinct gas and ethanol layers. Generally, the higher the ethanol content in the gas, the shorter its shelf life, so E15 (15 percent ethanol content), E20 (20 percent ethanol), or E85 (85 percent ethanol) gas will expire sooner than E10 gas will.

Pure gasoline keeps for at least six months.

Petroleum-based gasoline without any ethanol will still succumb to oxidation and volatile compound evaporation in a sealed container or tank, but these processes usually occur more slowly in pure gasoline, so you can usually expect it to last at least six months when properly stored. Because pure gas is hydrophobic (a.k.a., water-hating), it doesn’t absorb water or humidity as ethanol-blended gas does, which allows you to avoid moisture contamination and fuel separation issues.

Far be it from me to disagree with noted energy expert Bob Vila, but I think his claims about the lifespan of ethanol and regular gas don't make a lot of sense to me. First of all, gas stored in a container is only going to be exposed to a certain amount of air (with attendant moisture) unless you're somehow pushing air thru the tank. Unless you're storing a very small volume of gas+ethanol in a very large tank, I don't see where all the moisture is coming from. Second, and this is anecdotal evidence, I (and many, many people I know) routinely store untreated gas at our lake cabins for 6 months or more at a time. That gas runs chainsaws, outboards, generators, and 4-stroke motors just fine. Add some fuel stabilizer and the shelf life can easily exceed a year without any noticeable loss of energy when burned. Finally, even gas without ethanol can be have moisture contamination; unlike ethanol-treated gas, though, that water won't be absorbed and will naturally be phase-separated and it will sit at the bottom of the tank. (The same things happens to ethanol-treated gas after it has absorbed as much moisture as the ethanol can hold in suspension.) Most treatments to remove water from gasoline are - you guessed it - ethanol based.

I suppose it is debatable whether there is a net gain or loss of pollution by using ethanol (considering the production of the corn used to make ethanol), but so much of the rhetoric about the dangers of gas+ethanol is overbaked.
 
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JimS123

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Do you disagree with the following statement clipped from the bobvila.com website:

Ethanol-blended gas lasts up to three months.

According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration,
You just shot yourself in the foot with that quote.
If the govmt says it's so, you must believe its not true.

Ethanol in gas was not done for ecological or environmental reasons. It's all political and that's all I'm going to say about that.

I personally don't care what any professor or politician has to say. Actual personal experience is what I go by.

To sum it up.........E10 is more cost effective and it runs better.

Pffffffttt.
 

tpenfield

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I use regular gas, always have . I often would get gasoline at gas stations for use in the boats, rather than the marina gas.

Never had a problem.
 

JimS123

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Most treatments to remove water from gasoline are - you guessed it - ethanol based.
That's the winner.......LOL. Back in the day in Winter we all added ethanol (aka dry gas) to the gas tank to safely get us thru the snow season healthy. But the youngins never heard of that and the boomers were too lazy.

(Where is Ralph Nader when you need him.......LOL)
 

johnt_mn

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You just shot yourself in the foot with that quote.
If the govmt says it's so, you must believe its not true.

Ethanol in gas was not done for ecological or environmental reasons. It's all political and that's all I'm going to say about that.

I personally don't care what any professor or politician has to say. Actual personal experience is what I go by.

To sum it up.........E10 is more cost effective and it runs better.

Pffffffttt.
If you had actually read the quote, you'd notice the government part was just saying that most gas sold in the US is E10 and had nothing to do with the info about shelf life of E10 vs standard gas. Not sure which politicians or professors you're referring to. I also go by personal experience which is why I've been using non-ethanol gas for my small engines. Pfffft :)
 

johnt_mn

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That's the winner.......LOL. Back in the day in Winter we all added ethanol (aka dry gas) to the gas tank to safely get us thru the snow season healthy. But the youngins never heard of that and the boomers were too lazy.

(Where is Ralph Nader when you need him.......LOL)
Why on earth would you add ethanol to gas for cold weather? Ethanol does not vaporize as easily as gasoline in cold weather thus it will make the engine harder to start. I've lived in Minnesota for 65 years and NEVER added ethanol to gasoline. Never had trouble getting those carbureted cars started either, though I did occasionally use a block heater on those -40 degree F nights.
 

Texasmark

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I buy non-ethanol for my small engines (chainsaw, mower, tiller, etc.) because I think it stores better and doesn't absorb as much water from the air. The BoatUS site says "E10 will sometimes form a mysterious gooey substance that will also clog filters". I've seen this gooey stuff in carburetors.
I used water absorber fuel conditioners back in the late 1970's because I had a built in tank and worried about the subject.

What it got me was one day, in the middle of a large lake running at a good clip, the engine just died. My search results were that a blob of this goo you are talking about, white milky looking goo, had jammed in my fuel line at the engine connector, blocking fuel flow. Using the squeeze bulb, with the line disconnected from the connector, I blew it all out, reconnected the line and was on my way....no more water absorption additives for me. So I assume the supplement was alcohol.
 

jlh3rd

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I've owned many boats over my 83 years, and I've always ran regular gas. I was talking recently to a boat mechanic lately and we were discussing why some boat owners seem to have more trouble than others with maintenance on their motors. The subject came up about gas, and I mentioned that I've always just used regular gas, and haven't had much trouble with plugged carbs. He felt it was really important to only use non ethanol gas, which made me wonder just how the boating community feels about that subject, pro/con ? Locally, non ethanol gas is running at around $6.50 a gallon.

yes , I used/use ethanol gas in my '05 merc. 60 hp and now my new 115 hp merc.
no, I haven't have, nor did have, any issues..........yet..
Yes, I maintain all my equipment.....Yes, I use a stabilizer for winter storage in all my gas engined devices.....except my cars......they always start in the spring......
exception...my '02 camaro and my '75, mint vintage Honda 550 gets pure gas....see next...
Yes, I feel ethanol fuel can cause issues especially in older equipment especially if not used much.....
The pontoon boat gets stored with a full tank, and the tank is plastic.....maybe that helps with condensation.....anyway, it starts right up come spring, as stated before....
 

Scott Danforth

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Anything from E0 to E10 will work in any L&G or Marine motor (short of motors still needing lead in the fuel)

E15 and higher is bad for a variety of reasons.

Burn anything you want between E0 and E10
 
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