Distributor Shaft Seal Replacement

ESGWheel

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I am in the process of rebuilding my ign distributor for a 2005 VP 5.0 GXi-E engine. One part I cannot find is the distributor shaft seal. This is not the gasket between the distributor and the engine but the ‘oil seal’ at the upper end of the distributor. The good folks at the local Chevy dealer provided that this was a ‘non-serviceable part’ but I am hoping there was aftermarket seal that has the same form, fit and function but I am at a loss to find it. Below is a pic of the seal I am referring to.
Any suggestions or someone who has actually done it?

Dist Shaft Seal.png
 

Fun Times

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In looking around I haven't had any luck locating the seal in question for your model though I thought I was getting close with the 2 below but they're not it.

K2510 seal, https://www.chicagocorvette.net/category_view.php?cat_id=1963

Not sure why you're going for the full rebuild but I'll mention that at times it becomes common for the base mounting threads to become cracked/split or broke off and the cap will not seat properly causing running issues much like an image I'll link below as an example... Also there is an aftermarket type bracket out there that fits under the base so that the cap "screws" can be tightened down should the base get cracked off...<They did this when GM was using this designed distributor in the late 90's trucks and had issues with cracking's, etc..., https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-90449...NWO/ref=cm_wl_huc_item?tag=tahoeyukonforum-20

Your distributor Volvo part number is 21622232 in which there are other material designs such as billet aluminum that may help resist cracking or breaking in certain areas.

In the following if you zoom in on the screw between the cap and the base, you can see a crack that runs up and down that I'm sure they missed for $171.00...,

The following would be some aftermarket options comparable to using your VP part number if desired,

Here's a gear set with washers, etc. again just so you're aware is all.


Your engine parts, https://www.volvopentastore.com/Mar...on_id.106858759--store_id.366--view_id.765070

Is the seal in bad shape? Wonder if there’s any markings on the bottom side that might help I’d it.
 

ESGWheel

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FT – thank you for the comprehensive response!

Here is the deal: I do have that crack but not as pronounced. Ran that way for a few seasons but the cap screw on that hole no longer held so I got one of those billet aluminum aftermarket (AM) distributors. Had a little bit of an issue installing as the chamfer on the bottom of the tang to drive the oil pump was too square and I just could not get it to slide into the oil pump. Took it apart and added a proper chamfer to and ran all last season with it.

Somewhere in all that I was also trying to digest the SAE J1171 spec for marine devices. Not looking to violate them, just better understand as I had installed an AM distributor and wondered. It was touted as a direct replacement for my VP one but when I asked the seller if it meets J1171 all I got back was silence. I have since inquired with a couple of other sellers of this same “billet aluminum” item and again no response. So, I started to study the OEM one I pulled out. And it has these 2 narrow slit vents in a ‘tube’ with screens and it occurred to me that is what makes it J1171 compliant. See pics. Since need oxygen to create a flame, it seems as if this design would cause any flame to snuff itself out as it tried to exit the interior of the distributor down this tube and out the slit. Smart.

I do not know if the billet aluminum one I installed has such a feature but I will find out this spring. Regardless, I decided to rebuild the OEM one. Discovered that cool little fix it plate you highlighted and got one. Did not like that it used a self-taping kind of screw (vs a machine thread) for the new bolts to tie down the cap. And really detested I would have to place and support it any time I pulled / installed the cap. In my mind’s eye I could see fishing out that plate from the bilge more than once! So, I was going to mount it to the distributor with a couple of machine screws. And that is when I took a shot at tapping (8-32) the two cap hold down holes even though one had a slight crack. Turns out it took very well and there was plenty of meat in the bad hole. Thus, for now, no plate needed. Sweet.

For the rest of it I was able to get a replacement pick up sensor with the help of the local Chevy dealer (PN 19417445). Not that the old one failed but heck its 20 years old. Same idea for the upper oil seal. Looks OK and did not have issues but better a new one now…

My thoughts are to post a ‘how to rebuild’ and list out all the part nos., etc. and ran into speed bump trying to ID the seal.

So that is the story.

Vent Holes Top.png

Vent Holes Bottom.png
 

Fun Times

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gotcha, thanks for the detailed explanation back.🙂👍

When I was checking out the billet aluminum ones, it was crossing my mind if they were SAE J1171 or not but I didn’t check into it at all really plus I didn’t see a quick reference of yes or no. More research should be done before ordering one for sure for any others regarding this topic.

Yes the vent holes & screens are what makes it SAE J1171 compliant … I recall right around 2003 they were having moisture issues with a certain early design distributor and had to redo A design change to stop moisture from getting inside and causing no starts or rough running also, the material used on the distributor cap prongs are kind of important to for marine use… < think it was around 2006 they had issues with the cap and realized material used is important too to where some auto caps don’t work as well on the boat ones because of design differences of the distributor housing.

Does the billet one have the same seal you are searching for?

If it becomes junk to you and seemingly the same size, maybe pull it out, measure it out and see if a local bearing store can size it up for you / that and/or walk your OEM distributor in too and see if they can help.
 

ESGWheel

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Interesting about the cap material, did not know. I have been using the Sierra International, 18-5247 (cap and rotor) vs. a ‘made for auto’, so good to know I have been doing it correctly (I assume the correct material!).

Unsure if the billet one has same seal. But measuring the OEM one - without pulling it - is my next step. However, of the distributor seals I have run across online none provide any dimensions. Since I did not have issues before with the orginal seal this will be more of an academic exercise. If I find a replacement, I will be sure to post it.

This spring, when I pull the billet dist., I will be sure to post pics and highlight if has the vents similar to OEM.
 

Bt Doctur

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unless your getting oil contamination inside the dist, why do you need to replace the seal?
 

ESGWheel

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unless your getting oil contamination inside the dist, why do you need to replace the seal?
No oil contamination and it looks fine. I recognize its not holding back oil under pressure but its 20+ years old, made of some sort of rubber and its apart so why not?
I have been searching on some of the automotive forums as well but still no joy. If nothing found, it will remain in place.
 

Scott Danforth

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Pry out old seal. Measure shaft OD (seal ID), the housing ID (seal OD) and the seal thickness

Then look at a CR seal catalog and order a replacement seal
 

ESGWheel

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Thanks Scott > did not know about that catalog. Going to measure without pulling just in case and see what I come up with. Surprised I cannot find a posting of someone who has already done this in boat or car world given the abundance of these engines.
 

Scott06

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Thanks Scott > did not know about that catalog. Going to measure without pulling just in case and see what I come up with. Surprised I cannot find a posting of someone who has already done this in boat or car world given the abundance of these engines.
If you get the id, od, thickness of it and go to any bearing supply house or McMaster Carr you can likely find a suitable replacement. May be part or size numbers on it as well.
 

ESGWheel

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Update on this: I measured the installed (upper) seal as carefully as I could and started hunting for a replacement. Frankly I was soon overwhelmed. I am familiar with seals having been replacing them on various items (mostly automotive) for decades. But now I was faced with trying to engineer one. Most of the seals I deal with have the spring around the ID neck of the seal. Keeps it tight on the shaft and precludes leaking under pressure. So, the fear of a spring type being too tight was a concern. However, in my reading there are seals that do not have a spring to, well, not be as tight. Knowing that the distributor shaft does not see any oil pressure against it, I was thinking I could do with one of those. And then there are different lips, single, double, etc.

I bought a couple of seals I thought would work they but they will not. Recall I have not removed the old seal in fear of destroying it to determine spring, no spring, single or double lip, and exact measurement of its OD.

And during my search I ran across yet another replacement complete distributor. This one for Vortec 5.0, 5.7 etc. but not advertised as marine. It was a plastic not ‘billet aluminum’. And get this: was $43 with free shipping. I am talking a complete cap, rotor, etc. replacement distributor. I have been buying the Sierra 18-5247cap/rotor kits for $75! Are you kidding me? Thus, as Click and Clack would say, “for science’s sake” I got one. Does it have the vents like the OEM making it SAE J1171 compliant? Is it a good quality? Inquiring minds want to know. I’ll post what I find out.
 

ESGWheel

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Concluding this post on trying to find a replacement seal for the distributor shaft.
Recap:
  • Was going to rebuild my original Vortec distributor due to the infamous cracking of the cap hold down bosses typical of these distributors. Was doing this in response to not being sure the replacement aluminum billet one I had put in previously was SAE J1171 compliant.
  • Seal not bad per se’ but heck 20 years old! And I was pulling out the shaft anyway to address the cracked cap hold down bosses with an aftermarket device fm Dorman (90449) but was going to permanently mount it as a better option. See post #3.
Never did find a replacement seal, which frankly surprised me given the abundance of these distributors in the automotive scene. Note: I called several racing shops as well as a lot if internet searching on various Chevy forums. Nada.

Given the boss crack was only on one side and not that bad, I ended up using superglue on the crack and then drilling and tapping both to 8-32 all the way thru vs. using the Dorman plate. Then I used stainless steel machine screws that were long enough to protrude thru the bottom, thus ensuing I got the most engagement out the tapped bosses.

Put it all back together and been working fine since.

Also, as mentioned in post 11, I will report on my findings of the aluminum billet and the aforementioned $45 aftermarket plastic one later this year. Thus far my findings are pleasantly surprising but I have more to do before posting. :)
 

ESGWheel

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Grainger may be another source for the seal
Doc, the issue is one of identifying. I was reluctant to pull out the original one to properly identify the replacement. More then the ID and OD, I found out that there were a number of other factors like spring or no spring, double lip or single, etc. If I replace my OEM dist. with one of the AM units after convincing myself its J1171 compliant I will probably pull that seal and be able to identify a proper replacement. If I do I will update this post.
 
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