disable auto oiler on 90hp 2000 elpto

[racerone]

I have trolled with a 1963 Johnson 10 HP hour after hour.----No plug fouling.-----The 8 year old grandson starts this motor !!

 

[wn6ngp]

Either block it off or leave it alone. As stated this gear rarely fails on the I3/4 and 3L V6 motors unless severely overheated. The one most talked about and filters over to other engines is the 2.0/2.4/2.5L V-6. Yes they fail a lot. The biggest thing that fails most often on your engine is the oil warning module and the float in oil tank coming unglued from magnet.

I have observed the failing switch problem on a friends newer fuel injected version of my same basic motor. It failed closed so it beeped all the time. Unfortunately, the solution was replace the oil tank, $$. I will probably block off the pump. I've done all my own work on this motor for 20yrs now. My biggest worry is a bolt or nut falling off into nowhere land as I take things apart. I think I'll stuff a cloth under everything while doing this. Seems like my fingers fumble more than they used to.

 

[Texasmark]

The good thing to count with an auto oiler is that when at idle that motor will be running say at 100:1, at open throttle at 50:1. If the oiling system is cancelled or removed the motor will rev at 50:1 ratio through the entire rpm range. Will foul plugs faster when idling, trolling....

Happy Boating​

Pennzoil super synthetic-blend TC-W3, available at wally world, is almost smokeless with 50:1 pre-mix. Only time you can detect smoke is going from idle to Firewall in the hole shot...and then it's only for the first second.....but it is 50:1, not 80:1 the ratio for those engines, per the Serv. Manual. BTDT

 

[Texasmark]

You have to wonder what scientific work determined that one year mix was 24:1 and the following year it is 50:1.----Same parts and pieces in the 2 models.-----

Lubricants of today are not as they were back in the '50s and earlier, when it was the quart of 4 cycle engine oil for 24:1 vs todays 50:1. Materials are better understood for particular applications and with CDC milling machines of today, tolerances are changing from 0.001" to 0.0001" which require a smaller oil molecule for proper lubrication.

I do recall back in the '60's McCullough, (previously Scott-Attwater) marketed a 8 oz Red can of 100:1 oil for their 2 strokers...no idea as to what was in the can. Regular 50:1 was in a 16 oz yellow can to treat the common 6 gallon portable tanks common at the time. Reading responses on this site years ago, the big guns talked about some engines, OMC I think, marketing 100:1 oil in the '70s or 80's time frame but that was discontinued as in salt water applications, corrosion got to be a problem and at least one of them lived in Florida...forget his name. I do remember he had a little 17' or thereabouts, Donzi or something of the sort, with a cross flow 300 HP Johnson V8 for his go-fast toy.

 

[Texasmark]

That motor must be one of a kind. To get the idea, when plug fouls excessively there will be some motor hesitation when the throttle is opened up that will cure itself once the motor starts heating up towards a mucher higher workint temp.. It's not that you have to remove the plugs and cleam them out at your fishing spot. Plug fouling it's very notorious on 2-3 cylinder motors running premix 50:1 ratios at constant slow rpm for extended time periods....

Happy Boating​

I agree on what you are saying here. My current Merc 115 2 stroker is a 2+2 meaning at speeds below about 2000-2500 RPMs it only runs on 2 cylinders as there isn't enough fuel to the other two to ignite into combustion necessary to consider the cylinder providing power. Once up above the kick in point, it does take a short period of time for the wet plugs to clean up with the combustion heat and come online at 100%. Through trial and error, I found that tilting the rear of the engine up 10* or so and running NGK Iridium plugs solves that problem and when I hammer down on it now , she's ready to go and when idling in F gear, the engine doesn't vibrate...indicating misfiring of some sort.

The 1959 Mercury fishing motors (to name a year model where published data is on the www today) were built with the engine tilted up in the rear and the idea was to prevent non-burned fuel from pooling at the rear of the combustion chamber and with respect to the LU, the slant assisted, along with the smooth gearcase...vs OMCs gear box casting "bulge" made for ease of running the engine through weeds, moss, and over logs one encountered when fishing "fishy water" full full of obstructions. So there is some scientific recognition of tilting the power head up in the rear....not my just blowing smoke.

 

[racerone]

How can ---" non burning fuel " ----pool at the rear of the combustion chamber ?????-----These statement are just a mystery to me.----Can you explain where this pooling might occur in some detail.----In the cylinder itself or crankcase ??

 

[40eastfishing]

I've got a 90hp 2000 elpto s/n OT087666 with about 500 hrs on it.

I'm concerned that the auto oiling thing is gonna fail, if not the pump then a hose somewhere, clamp etc.. I've been told disabling is not that simple because the pump is driven off the crank so it requires a teardown to remove the pump and the pump needs the oil flow to keep from failing/seizing itself. So I am thinking a solution to the problem would be to disconnect the oil output going to the carbs and simply have those hoses dump their oil back into the oil tank. So it would just be a big oil loop.

Any problems with that shade tree mod?

What did you end up doing? I have 2001 elpto 90 that I would like to delete the oil injection. I saw someone sent a link for the block off plate but it does not say it is for that motor. I was hoping that it worked for you

 

[racerone]

Easy way is to take pump discharge and tee it into pump oil intake.-----Will just circulate oil.-----And be ready to switch back if you decide to sell the motor.