Difference between Chopped mat and woven fiberglass mat?

Manipulator

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I have some work to do on my motor mounts and stringers. I notice there are a few types of mat out there. Which should I use?
 

KRS

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Re: Difference between Chopped mat and woven fiberglass mat?

They are for different purposes. You'll probably use both during a stringer and floor rebuild.

Mat is typically for flat installations, or those with few curves. It is basically chipped pieces all stuck together with a bonding agent (styrene I think). The chopped mat offer a quick buildup because it's thick, but isn't as strong as a woven piece.

The woven comes in different types though... some only have good strength in one direction so be sure you know what you need and what you are using.

Someone with more knowledge will be along shortly.

Also, are you using poly resin or epoxy resin for the repairs?

Probably not a bad idea to get one of those West Systems (etc) How-To books... they are worth the cost (less than 10 bucks I think).

Good luck and you're committed to giving us pictures :)
 

i386

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Re: Difference between Chopped mat and woven fiberglass mat?

Yea, I'd love a lesson on which cloth works best for which application.
 

KRS

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Re: Difference between Chopped mat and woven fiberglass mat?

From West Systems website:

CHOPPED STRAND FIBERGLASS MAT . This material is just what the name implies. The fibers are typically 3-4 inches in length and are randomly oriented. Chopped strand mat is not a very strong material because of the short fiber length. However, it is isotropic. This means that it is equally strong in all directions. Mat and fillers are the only composite reinforcements exhibiting this trait. This is the least expensive reinforcement form and is thus the most widely used. It is suitable for molds and part production. The random orientation effectively hides fabric print through of gelcoats and makes molds which are equally stiff in all directions. It should be noted that chopped strand mat is only compatible with polyester resin.

WOVEN FABRICS. Woven fabrics are strong reinforcements because the fibers are bundled into yarns oriented in just two directions. The warp and fill yarns run at 0 and 90 degrees respectively. Thus, fabrics are anisotropic, or strong in only two directions. Fabrics need to be oriented so the fiber yarns run parallel to the expected loads. If extra strength is needed in a different direction, another ply must be added at an angle to the first. The most common angles are +/- 45 degrees.

Styles Of Woven Fabrics
There are many styles of woven fabric to choose from. The most common are the plain weave fabrics where the warp and fill threads cross alternately. Plain woven fabrics are generally the lease pliable, but are easy to cut and handle because they don’t unravel badly. However, their strength is compromised due to the severe “prebuckling” already present in the fabric. As stated under tows, fibers only produce their greatest strength when they are perfectly straight. The frequent over/under crossing of the threads reduces the strength of plain weave types, though they are still adequate for all but the highest performance applications.

Twill weaves and satin fabrics are highly pliable and stronger than the plain weave styles. In a satin weave, 1 filling yarn floats over 3-7 other warp threads before being stitched under another warp thread. Threads run straighter much longer in this loosely woven type, maintaining the theoretical strengths of the fiber. Obviously, pliability is higher and these fabrics conform easily to complex shapes. Once cut, however, they can unravel easier because each thread is not held as tightly. Twill weaves offer a compromise between the satin and plain weave types, as well as an often desirable herringbone cosmetic finish.
 

KRS

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Re: Difference between Chopped mat and woven fiberglass mat?

actually, that last one was from fibreglast.com
 

Manipulator

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Re: Difference between Chopped mat and woven fiberglass mat?

Thanks for all your replies. I will post pics when I'm finished. It won't be for a while as I had to put the project off until spring. My boat is in storage now. I have some photos of the damage and have posted the link below.

Here is the scenario. Basically I have an 83 OMC 800. The hydraulic rams started to leak pretty good this past year. I believe they have been leaking quite a while and it was time to rebuild. Well the oil from the rams had been running down the shaft to the motor mounts and then on top of the fiberglass that was built up for the stringers. The oil weakened and loosened the fiberglass and it cracked all around the motor mounts. I stuck a screwdriver in the crack and the whole damn fiberglass mount popped off in one piece, on both sides! Within this fiberglass mount was a little piece of wood that sat on the lower stringer. It was oil logged. The stringers themselves seem ok but have a little dry rot in 1-2 of the holes. I plan on filling the holes with epoxy and then re-drilling them.

I am planning on using Poly resin. Is that a bad idea? On the pics just keep hitting "next".

In the first photo I can not figure out what this black material is. It was on the bottom of the wood and one side that attached it to the side of the stringer.
 

strizzy

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Re: Difference between Chopped mat and woven fiberglass mat?

Easiest way would be to use the mat boomyal suggested. I personally don’t like the idea of over drilling the holes and filling with resin/epoxy (at least for motor mounts). The resin isn’t very ductile/flexible (think of something like glass…), whatever you want to call it. I wouldn’t like the idea of my 900lb motor lag bolted into something like that while slamming into some nice chop... that’s just me personally.

Poly resin will be just fine. Just prep the area real nice and make sure all your hydraulic fluid is cleaned up.

Just throwin my 2 cents out there.
 

andy6374

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Re: Difference between Chopped mat and woven fiberglass mat?

The weight of the motor is distributed via the washers or some sort of mounting plate. In my opinion oversize drilling and filling with resin/cabosil mixture is the best way to prevent water intrusion, I would still use some 3m 101 or 4200 though. If you want to get fancy, some people overdrill and epoxy in a pvc tube/insert for the mounting holes. This works great as well.
 
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