Re: did mercuiser change the size of their couplers/drive shafts over the years?
If it were me, I'd be pulling that engine out (it doesn't take long and is quite an easy job. I've done it about 10 times on mine) and checking that the drive goes on without the engine in place... Then pull the drive back off and check that it fits into the coupler.... If it's a yes on both accounts, then put the engine back in, do the alignment again and fit the drive.... But I would have the drive complete, so I can turn the input shaft using the prop.... But that's just me, I like doing things the easy way...
Chris.....
chris, i hear what your saying but I dont have a hoist to lift the engine fro mthe boat that is tall enough. only a standard (car) engine lift.
if i were to do that, wouldn't it be easier to remove the gimbal bearing & confirm the shaft fits in w/out the bearing in place? i know the drive mounts up to the gimbal housing, they are both gen II's.
after sleeping on it I feel my issue lies with alignment. the tool has to be shoved into the bearing to seat totally, I can not get a smooth fit. I have the engine supported w/a come along attached to a 4x4(beam) & I am lifting the engine up /down but as much as I do this, i am getting nowhere. each time I adjust the height, should I re-rest the engine on the mounts or can I get it right hanging in place by the come along until it slides smoothly?
how much should i turn the engine mount nuts when adjusting? 1/2 turn @ a time? 3 turns?
i mean, ok, i have the engine sitting on the mounts, no tension on the hoist & the tool going in & out but i have to wrap my fist around it to do so. now, should I turn the nuts(1 on each side) 1 full turn,2? 3? or 1/2 turn?
is it possible I keep just missing my sweet spot because my hoist moving the engine up/down too much?