Last Fall when I winterized the boat, I decided to replace the exh manifolds. 750 hours on a full closed cooled motor in the salt, it was about time. Unbeknownst to me or I chose to ignore it (both?), saltwater has been dripping right between the exhaust ports and manifolds. Wow, did that ever create a huge headache! One of the last trips of the year, I broke a tooth on on the ring gear. Gotta pull the motor to fix that, good time for manifolds too. Pulled the engine last wknd and this is where this thread begins. Long story short, I just ordered a reman'd long block engine to get me back on the water ASAP.
See my other thread for background details:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=383802
Keep in mind I'll I'm doing myself. I have no formal training, but I'm pretty darn good with a wrench. I find many boat tech/mechanics can be sloppy in their workmanship, but very thorough in the billing department. Being 40, 50, or 60nm offshore, I need to know things are done properly.
DAY 1: The brown Santa truck arrived with my new GLM manifolds and risers. I know about the bad experiences with GLM's some of you have had. Is GLM quality better or worse than OEM or other aftermarket manufacturers? I don't know, but they are no worse either. I liked their hype about the internal vanes to direct exhaust gases out. For $450 for mani and riser kit, I really shouldn't complain. All I know is they are far better than my OEMs. After removing all the paint on the mounting surfaces, the straight edge/feeler gauge test proved excellent. The gaskets however were not so lucky. The styro packing broke down in transit and compressed the gaskets in some spots. Not a big deal since I need block off gaskets for the risers which I forgot to order. The seller is going to ship out NEW mounting gaskets FOC with my new order.
Questions:
1) Do I need to get OEM mounting bolts for the mani's or will my local hardware shop's inventory work? I assume I'll need grade 5 or better? Seems dumb to reuse rusty crap when basically I'm starting over minus the transon assembly. I have lots of access to black engine paint. Might as well make the motor as pretty as possible just because it'll look cool with the newly painted bilge. (LOL at myself)
2) Much of the component brackets for the heat exchanger, alternator, power steering, etc. has some rust. What if I sandblast and then galvanize? I can always paint over the galvanization for looks. Anyone see any issue with that or just plain overkill? Would powdercoating be better? Believe me, I want to avoid any future rust issues if possible.
Working long hours the next 2 days, next update will be Thursday.
Kevin
See my other thread for background details:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=383802
Keep in mind I'll I'm doing myself. I have no formal training, but I'm pretty darn good with a wrench. I find many boat tech/mechanics can be sloppy in their workmanship, but very thorough in the billing department. Being 40, 50, or 60nm offshore, I need to know things are done properly.
DAY 1: The brown Santa truck arrived with my new GLM manifolds and risers. I know about the bad experiences with GLM's some of you have had. Is GLM quality better or worse than OEM or other aftermarket manufacturers? I don't know, but they are no worse either. I liked their hype about the internal vanes to direct exhaust gases out. For $450 for mani and riser kit, I really shouldn't complain. All I know is they are far better than my OEMs. After removing all the paint on the mounting surfaces, the straight edge/feeler gauge test proved excellent. The gaskets however were not so lucky. The styro packing broke down in transit and compressed the gaskets in some spots. Not a big deal since I need block off gaskets for the risers which I forgot to order. The seller is going to ship out NEW mounting gaskets FOC with my new order.
Questions:
1) Do I need to get OEM mounting bolts for the mani's or will my local hardware shop's inventory work? I assume I'll need grade 5 or better? Seems dumb to reuse rusty crap when basically I'm starting over minus the transon assembly. I have lots of access to black engine paint. Might as well make the motor as pretty as possible just because it'll look cool with the newly painted bilge. (LOL at myself)
2) Much of the component brackets for the heat exchanger, alternator, power steering, etc. has some rust. What if I sandblast and then galvanize? I can always paint over the galvanization for looks. Anyone see any issue with that or just plain overkill? Would powdercoating be better? Believe me, I want to avoid any future rust issues if possible.
Working long hours the next 2 days, next update will be Thursday.
Kevin
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