Diagnosing what looks like a dead stator

Sep 1, 2023
Hi Guys,
Just trying to avoid getting shafted by the *only* boat mechanic around here. Hoping some of your expertise can point me in the direction of whether the rabbit hold of fixing this thing is worth it. Thanks in advance!

Here is what I know.
-seller claimed it was a 2005, but from the model number he gave me looks like 2000
-model: 75TLRY 2 stroke, 75hp, oil injection, electric start, remote control console
-seller had it idling for 30min before I got there.
-in the ocean. salt water
-fresh battery, fresh gas and oil
-i noticed the main negative wire at battery was fully corroded off, it required holding it to the terminal when starting. (i'm wondering if when the boat was running, this wire could have been grounding out on the bottom of boat)
-when i took it for a spin before buying, it got up to full throttle pretty smooth, but it did kind've jitter at times before leaping forward and sounding good again. the water was smooth
-when i returned, i was going through the waves from the wake I'd created and boat bounced hard a few times.
-when nearly at dock and throttle down, it stalled. each time restart it would start, but as soon as i engaged gear it stall. repeated a few times before giving up.
-(negotiated a great deal on the boat assuming the engine is dead )
-an hour later tried to start it. turned over strong but won't start. choked or not, it doesn't fire.
-I noticed that the bottom sparkplug wire was lose and barely on (that can't be good).
-took apart the fuel line and filter, it's all clear and free flowing
-pulled the 3 sparkplugs, no spark on any of them.
-checked the kill switch for anything obvious. looks fine
-checked for obvious corrosion or leaking generally on all components. looks good.

-i read that the symptoms above describe what happens when a stator is failing or dead.
-also read, that when replacing it, the "switch box" should be replaced.
-i don't have or know how to use a multimeter.
-pics of engine are in this thread: https://forums.iboats.com/threads/i...issing-model-number-and-it-wont-start.769209/

At this point, I'm willing to throw parts at the problem if it seems like something obvious. Anything would be cheaper than the local mechanic.
But if it is going to cost thousands and a bunch of labor, I don't know that it will be worth it. But fixing it means I have a boat that runs and don't have to source a new one...

What do you guys think?


Fleet Admiral
Sep 7, 2008
someone, either you or someone else needs to measure peak voltages into the CDI and out of it to figure out what is bad
Sep 1, 2023
Alright, I figured I'd followup for posterity. We found an old guy, boat mechanic all his life. He helped a lot. The ignition switch was definitely dead. After replacing that ($160 CAD), we had spark, but no fuel going from fuel pump to the spark plugs. Carb issue? He said to use the "emergency enrichment" red switch on the front of carb #2. Flipped it 180deg, tried starting, then 90deg, tried starting and it fired up right away! Flipped back to normal and it fires up no problem. Also, our fuel line had a faulty valve (the one that stops air from entering at the gas tank), so our fuel line needed to be pumped a lot to bleed it (and needs replacing).
Runs like a dream now. Nice when it is a happy (inexpensive) ending.
Anyone on Vancouver Island BC needs help I'd be happy to refer the guy I worked with. (He's friends with my dad, so was happy to have a case of beer, but normally does charge for his work).