Deutz Deisel air cooled

the man

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Okay, I have seen a few marine motors, but never heard of this one. It is in a 1973 cruise-a-home. it won't start, apparently some mechanic said it is the fuel pump. Thing is, I like to start with a manual and I can find NOTHING on these motors. There is a website for new ones but not helpful. It looks like there is a fuel pump before the filters, (picture) but what type, pressure, and is there another one in the engine? Anyone have any insight into this mess? fuel pump i guess.JPG
 

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rbh

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You find alot of those motors in farm tractors and equipment.
 

HT32BSX115

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Yeah. I have a JLG "Manlift" with an air-cooled 3 cyl Deutz installed. One of the most popular diesels there is for small equipment like forklifts, manlifts, generators, etc......

It runs absolutely flawless even after letting it sit for 6 months or more!

Pretty simple engine. If there's fuel to the injection pump and compression, it'll run.

If there's a problem with the injection pump, it will NOT run.

If you have a transfer pump problem, (failed pump, plugged filter etc,) you need to look there

If you want to work on the engine yourself, you need to get a service manual for it...... I would start by contacting http://www.deutzamericas.com/support/index.cfm and give them the engine model.

Regards,


Rick
 

K-2

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F8L413 Deutz
Very cool! I knew of a inline 6 in a boat, ran like a sewing machine, kind of loud from the fan and no water jackets. That electric fuel pump in the first pic is an add on, after market, so make sure that works, the racors look clean but I would change them anyway, it looks like it has a 2 way valve after the pump but before the racors, so you can switch between racors and run on one at a time . Follow the fuel lines from the racors, they might go to those red filters in the over head pic, they might be fuel filters, then on to the fuel injection pump, that's down in the valley between the heads under that sheet metal top.
Does it make any exhaust smoke when cranking?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEUTZ-F8L413-Diesel-Engine-RUNS-V8-Air-Cooled-413-COMPLETE-/221604713664
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEUTZ-B-F-6...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item259717d2a9
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KHD-DEUTZ-B...410?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item2343c37952
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deutz-Engin..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item3cd32ff639&vxp=mtr
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAKdmM21UgI
 

the man

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F8L413 Deutz
Very cool! Does it make any exhaust smoke when cranking?

Wow that is cool. Thanks for posting. I was by myself, so I could not see the stern when I was cranking. It is in an old Cruise-a-home so visibility aft is limited. I will be back there Thursday and report back. Thanks again- this is what I needed.
 

the man

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Cannot get a manual by Thursday. Does anyone know what the lift pump pressure should be, if I have to replace it?
 

rbh

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I will have to do this in stages as the forum times out to fast.
It looks as if you have 2 fuel tanks/cells one for each filter, there is a fuel redirection fitting to direct fuel to the fuel pump from each tank.
Pull the output line off the electric fuel pump, key on should energize it and it should pump fuel??
If it does not problem is on the filter tank side of pump of it. IF it pumps a good rate of fuel replace the line and tighten it down, crack all the lines on the injectors 1 rotation only. (just till the lines can wiggle alittle bit)
Over time the fuel can blead back and air can get into the system and since air can be compressed there is not enough preasure to crack pop the injectors. Or it ran out of fuel and sucked in air.

You want to push new fuel through the injector pump and lines and push any air out where it meets the injectors at the head.
If/When motors starts or surges, tighten down the injector line, do not run the starter to the point it over heats 20-30 seconds on 1-2 minites cool down.
 
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the man

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If/When motors starts or surges, tighten down the injector line.

Okay, so as long as fuel is 'getting' to the injector pump, no particular pressure required on the lift pump? So if I have to replace the lift pump, 3-4 PSI should be sufficient?
 

rbh

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I am not sure what the preasure should be?? I think its a volume question, when you pull the hose of the output side of the electric fuel pump and it starts to pump, does it gush out or just spit?

If it flows out at a good rate, next step would be to crack the injector lines at the injectors and get the air out.
 
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K-2

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I'm not seeing where there is 2 fuel tanks and a filter for each tank, it's just not plumbed that way by looking at pic 1.
The fuel flow direction on pic 1 is from right to left.
One fuel line feeding the fuel pump.
 

the man

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I'm not seeing where there is 2 fuel tanks and a filter for each tank, it's just not plumbed that way by looking at pic 1.
The fuel flow direction on pic 1 is from right to left.
One fuel line feeding the fuel pump.

Yes, I agree. There are two tanks, but the switching for selecting tanks is not in the picture, and are before the fuel pump. The valve switches in the picture are to choose filters, not tanks.
 

K-2

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Keep us posted :)
I'm curious, does the boat have big ducting to route air to fan ?
 

the man

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As may be expected, the fuel pump replacement opened up a new issue. As I was operating the starter during the air bleeding process, I stopped for a moment as I was going to let the starter cool for a minute. I instantly heard a 'splatter", like someone had stepped on a ketchup packet. (best i can come up with). On inspection of the engine, there was engine oil sprayed across the top of the injection pump. Further inspection and subsequent starter operation revealed that the oil cooler had formed a substantial leak. But in operating the starter now, the oil would not spray, it would just run out.

My 'theory' is that there is a blockage down the line somewhere, and the built up pressure blew a hole in the oil cooler, maybe at a weak spot which was the 'weakest link'. That is why it sprayed the first time and then flowed slowly afterward. The next down the line is the oil filters, which according to the manual have a "bypass valve". I do not know how that bypass valve works; for instance it may be malfunctioning? Any additional experiences or theories someone wants to throw into this?
 
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rbh

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Pull off the cooler and get it welded up then preasure tested (copper or aluminum? use radiator shop)
If there is lots of corrosion get them to clean those areas and reweld those spots as well.

When you where bleading the injector line did the fuel blast out and did air hiss/pop out and did the motor catch???
 

the man

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Pull off the cooler and get it welded up then preasure tested (copper or aluminum? use radiator shop)
If there is lots of corrosion get them to clean those areas and reweld those spots as well.
My concern is that this oil cooler leak is a symptom of a blockage, not an isolated problem. wondering how to test to find out.

yes, the fuel line was bleeding air and the motor almost started; never actually did though before this happened.
 

rbh

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I am thinking that there was a weak spot in the cooler and once you cranked it over enough it finally filled the oil galleries as well as the cooler and it preasured up and the weak spot let go.
Pull it off, tilt over to drain out the oil out, immerse in diesel bath in a safe manner, agitate holding container, (let it sit for a day or so) the diesel will soften up any gunk in the cooler. pick it up so there is still diesel in the cooler and drain into a clean container to see what comes out, if fins are junked up put it in the dishwasher, watch out the wife does not catch Ya, LOL

Oh, check and replace the oil filters, are the inner houseing guncked up???
 
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