Decking Question

jtaggart

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 20, 2018
Messages
30
I am starting to do some research on redecking my Starcraft. Its a 1986 Mariner MR220V. The hatch at the transom is starting to go and the deck in front of the console is like a wet noodle. Id like to do something thats robust and will last forever, so not marine plywood. Im looking at either 1/8" aluminum with a non-skid or one of the synthetics like kingboard or starboard. From what I've found the synthetic options are really heavy, nearly twice that of aluminum or marine plywood. That is pushing me towards aluminum.

For those of you who went the route of aluminum what did you do to make up the difference in the thickness of the flooring going from 3/4 marine ply down to roughly the 1/8" aluminum?
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
Properly sealed and cared for marine or exterior grade ply covered with vinyl will likely outlast the remaining life of the boat. Some of these boats are 40+ years old and the original decking is still holding up. Not trying to sway you from using aluminum, just consider if its really needed. Most of what you see today is from years of neglect and unsealed wood from the factory.
 

jtaggart

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 20, 2018
Messages
30
Properly sealed and cared for marine or exterior grade ply covered with vinyl will likely outlast the remaining life of the boat. Some of these boats are 40+ years old and the original decking is still holding up. Not trying to sway you from using aluminum, just consider if its really needed. Most of what you see today is from years of neglect and unsealed wood from the factory.
I get that but I still would like to do aluminum and remove whatever wood I can. Ideally the only wood left on the boat would be decorative.
 

nova9909

Recruit
Joined
Jun 30, 2024
Messages
1
Following as I am currently debating the same thing. Leaning towards aluminum "diamond" plate but curious if I should go the ply route simply for the extra weight in chop. (Mariner 210)
 

Moserkr

Chief Officer + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2021
Joined
Nov 23, 2020
Messages
869
If you are dead set on aluminum, I think 1/8" is overkill honestly. I used that size for building some added supports during my rebuild. It is thicker than the hull!!

So, my suggestion, watch tiny boat nation on the youtubes. He builds cross section supports with angled aluminum, which gives the support for a thin skin of aluminum to walk on. Saves weight and probably money, as well as adds a lot of structure to the sub-frame of the hull. If I were going to do an aluminum floor, thats what I would do. Also, 1/8" would still flex without added structural support underneath anyway.
 

1960 Starflite

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 23, 2011
Messages
377
3/4 inch Exterior ccx under vinyl is the way I went. Use 1/2" risers under railings is the key for water shedding. I also shimmed furniture and helm with ridged plastic.
The old deck lasted 20 years under carpet and No risers.
 

jtaggart

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 20, 2018
Messages
30
Following as I am currently debating the same thing. Leaning towards aluminum "diamond" plate but curious if I should go the ply route simply for the extra weight in chop. (Mariner 210)
Weight difference between 3/4 marine ply and 1/8" Al is minimal, under 5 lbs difference on a 4x8 sheet.
 

mattsteg

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2019
Messages
177
If you are dead set on aluminum, I think 1/8" is overkill honestly. I used that size for building some added supports during my rebuild. It is thicker than the hull!!

So, my suggestion, watch tiny boat nation on the youtubes. He builds cross section supports with angled aluminum, which gives the support for a thin skin of aluminum to walk on. Saves weight and probably money, as well as adds a lot of structure to the sub-frame of the hull. If I were going to do an aluminum floor, thats what I would do. Also, 1/8" would still flex without added structural support underneath anyway.
Yeah the tbnation stuff is super relevant to what we do...even if I could fit most "tiny" boats in my cockpit.

With aluminum you are gonna want to accept and expect some flex, unless you very much overbuild it.

Also, if you go "heavy" on aluminum vs. wood, if you're properly accounting for floatation foam you should use more of it (even if the boat weighs less!) because wood floats and aluminum sinks.
 

Moserkr

Chief Officer + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2021
Joined
Nov 23, 2020
Messages
869
Yea TBN may be building little bass boats, but I wish I had seen it prior to my build. I may have gone all AL instead of wood. The wood may float but it is heavy!!! Mine is 3/4" so its overkill, plus it's epoxied. Interesting info @jtaggart on the wood vs AL weight, another reason to go lighter than 1/8" AL for the floor. Good point on floatation foam, that I would say you could never have enough of.
 

jtaggart

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 20, 2018
Messages
30
The Al weight is from Alro, the plywood weight is from a random google search so make of it what you will but.
 
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