Re: cylinder wall gouged up
The factory gasket has a self-setting glue on it and it practically welds the parts together. You need to get some sort of bar or screwdriver behind a protrusion and either pry or hammer them apart. It won't come easy. The gaskets will be destroyed and you will need to scrape all surfaces clean. They are relatively simple ones so you have the choice of buying them at radical prices or making your own from 1/32 gasket paper sold in auto stores.
You can bore a single cylinder to .030 over and the increased displacement is so small that the engine will never notice it. HOWEVER---Be aware that the factory recommends reboring any cylinder that is worn .002 over or out of round or barrel shaped by more than .002.
If you do not do this, the engine will still perform satisfactory but you will not achieve the full potential of the engine. So be sure to have the machine shop mike every cylinder. Then, the choice is yours.
Also be aware that the factory recommends a maximum overbore of .030 yet Wiseco sells pistons .040 over.--Even if there is no more meat for an overbore, you still have the option of re-sleeving for about a couple of hundred each cylinder--but don't take this job to a regular machine shop, take it to an outboard guy who has done it before. At 200 a hole, it still beats 1200 for buying a new bare block.
Also, ask the machine shop to slightly chamfer the ports inside the cylinder; It will not change the timing and will significantly reduce the possibility of ring catching. This is a place where you can do it yourself with a rat tailed file or a Dremel and save a bit of money if they don't automatically do it.
