Crazy noise I cant figue out

[CurrentObsession]

Newer to me 1998 SeaRay 290 Sundancer with twin 350 EFI/ Alpha drives.

When trying to get up on plane a dashboard buzzer sounds but goes away when on plane. At first I thought it was related to the vacuflush toilet that is located just forward of the helm. Buddy went down to the head area while using the boat yesterday to try and figure out where the noise is coming from. He insists it is no where near the head and says he thinks its coming from the dash area above.

What could it be?

 

[alldodge]

Its the warning buzzer and its behind the helm gauges. Something is not right so there is an alarm going off. Check to motor for codes either with a scanner of the led and paper clip.

Solid buzzer is from overheat, drive lube bottle, oil pressure

 

[harringtondav]

Solid buzzer is from overheat, drive lube bottle, oil pressure

If either lube bottle is low, the bow up when climbing onto a plane could allow the bottle's switch to close and set off the alarm. Then stop when you level out. Top off the bottles and see if it stops.

 

[bman440440]

one (or both) of the drive lube bottles is low

 

[Mad Props]

Was also thinking maybe low oil/sloshing back when inclined, but I think the oil pickup is towards the back so wouldn't make sense intuitively, but still worth checking engine oil level.

 

[CurrentObsession]

Okay, stopped at boat at marina on way home to check it out.

Its not the drive lube, both are full.

I don't think its over heating as the buzzer goes on and off many times during our usual 1/2 hours on plane rides.

Both oil pressure and temp dash gauges show normal readings.

A check of the dipsticks shows 1 quart low on starboard and 1/4 quart low on port. I guess I will fill oil to proper levels tomorrow and go for a spin.

 

[alldodge]

Might be a bad sensor switch. If you can check for codes it should let you know. Even things like a lube bottle which has not been cleaned out in a long time can start similar issues

 

[CurrentObsession]

Might be a bad sensor switch. If you can check for codes it should let you know. Even things like a lube bottle which has not been cleaned out in a long time can start similar issues

Okay

How do I check codes?

 

[alldodge]

Okay

How do I check codes?

Don't have a motor serial number but being a 98 I'm assuming its a MEFI 3 ECM
If that is the case you need a resistor 12V LED which can be had at places like radio shack. Find the DLC connector, then with it and a paper clip, turn key ON without starting and count the flashes

 

[CurrentObsession]

Awesome
where do I find list of fault codes?

 

[alldodge]

Here is a list

 

[CurrentObsession]

I've been looking online for an LED test light but the traditional old fashioned bulb ones are all I can find, will that work also or does it have to be LED?

 

[CurrentObsession]

Will this work if I use the red wire and probe?


https://www.harborfreight.com/computer-safe-automotive-logic-probe-98709.html

 

[alldodge]

It has to be a resistor type LED. If not used it can over load the ECM

https://www.radioshack.com/products/5mm-red-led-1

 

[alldodge]

Or get the code mate from Rinda
http://www.rinda.com/marine/marine.htm

 

[CurrentObsession]

Okay

Got my diode and am ready to get codes.

How do I do this by myself?

I am thinking I will miss some of them by the time I get from the cabin where the ignition keys are to the back engine bay.

 

[alldodge]

It flashes slowly and will repeat the codes at least 3 times, so no hurry. Plug in the led and jumper then turn key to ON and start counting. There will be a pause between each set of 2 numbers, and a longer pause when it starts to repeat

 

[CurrentObsession]

Okay

That didn't work out so well...…....

Bought a pack of 100 diodes from Amazon cause it was cheaper that a single plus shipping from Radio Shack (all stores by me are closed), did the jumper between A and B and diode between E and F.

Best I could see, it occasionally sparked maybe after 30 seconds or so. Didn't light up like I am used to seeing like on a furnace circuit board that flashes for diagnostics, it was more like a spark plug sparks. After several attempts I noticed that the diagram provided by AllDodge shows a + and - polarity to the diode. Didn't work either way.

Questions:
Is the longer leg of the diode the + or - side?

Do I have the wrong specs on the diodes?

 

[CurrentObsession]

[No message]

 

[alldodge]

As in post 9 it must be a "12V LED", what you probably have is a 2 or 3V.
I understand trying to save money, but your messing with a $600 to $1200 computer.

Search on "12V LED"
I'm seeing .36 to $2.50