Can't find info on what to put on the coupler bolts before torking
clean and dry
clean and dry
So, at the least, I'd put 30 weight oil on them and torque to spec.
Just tighten it up a quarter turn before snapping the bolt.
Good luck getting them out.
Mercruiser does things its own way but that doesn't mean it is the only right way.
Mercruiser does things its own way but that doesn't mean it is the only right way.
Ok, so he lubes them.... Now, what torque value do you advise he use??
The standard torque provided by Mercruiser for clean and dry?
Put them in dry and you can expect corrosion.
By dry do you mean totally degreased or simply as supplied by the manufacturer with residual oil?
ARP rercommends pulling up all its fasteners with oil on the threads, especially critical ones like main and rod bearings.
The oil recommendation is because it gives a uniform coefficient of friction wheras dry assembly bolt stretch depends largely on bolt surface condition.
Mercruiser does things its own way but that doesn't mean it is the only right way.
My stuff doesn't break or come apart so after using appropriate coatings on fasteners for over 40 years, I'm not about to change.
Most stainless fasteners require anti seize to torque correctly due to galling of stainless.
I just bought $1000 worth of stainless bolts from Totally Stainless for an old Vette I'm restoring and they came with instructions and a bottle of nickel anti sieze.
They are not warranted if you don't use the anti sieze and their torque recommendations.
Virtually every bolt installed in a refinery or chemical plant gets anti sieze.
The only way to truly correctly torque a critical bolt is with a stretch gauge as I do with rod bearings in my racing engines.
Or, for big stuff, a hydraulic bolt stretcher is used to guarantee correct bolt strain.
Put em in totally degreased if you want.
Good luck getting them out.
Especially with steel or stainless fasteners into aluminum.