could this be carburetor trouble

[RTripp]

Well .... Started the motor took off top spark plug wire. Motor almost died but kept running. put it back on and rpm picked up a little.

Took the bottom one off and got shocked pretty good. While it was off I noticed spark coming from the other end of plug wire.

and the motor shut off. I went to crank it again and my battery on drill died.

Gotta go to work now. I will try again this afternoon.

 

[Mohawkmtrs]

Switch the plug wires around...if the top cylinder starts acting up, replace the spark plug wires...might as well replace both.

 

[spybot]

Total wide shot but, what mix are you using for the 2 stroke oil ???
If its 50/1 try 25/1 see how the motor runs. Also check your plug leads. seems like the bottom one is toasted.
I had a motor that would rev freely ect ect but would give me all the symptoms you are experiencing no power under load. I changed the mix to 25/1 she ran like a champ. I traced it down to a bust crankshaft seal
It may work for you it may not but its worth a try.
Cheers Andy

 

[RTripp]

Thanks for the responses

Tried to buy new spark plug wires today. No luck at O'reilleys, West Marine and another marina place. I guess I need to order them. The marina said they would order them, I said, 'I can do that.' An have them shipped to my door.

I don't want to put these wires back on. I did not enjoy the SHOCK!!

Yes, I have been running Super Tech TC-W3 Outboard 2-Cycle Oil, at 50;1

Now I have to wait for the new spark plug wires to arrive.

 

[racerone]

Next time you or your neighbor look for help at that marina you may find the door locked shut.

 

[RTripp]

I did have them do some carb work on my 4 hp Evinrude and they way overcharged me and did't do a good job. They cleaned the old carb and charged me $180.

Racerone it is nice of you to stick up for one of my local Marinas. I do like to shop locally and I tried at two brick and mortar places.

But, the main guy at this particular marina really is a jerk.

And......I miss lead you with my quote. I actually said thank you. I will look elsewhere. To myself I said, "Self, you can order this yourself online and have it delivered to your door."

I will be getting the new plug wires on Wednesday. So, Thursday I will try them out.

 

[thatone123]

I have worked on these motors a lot, dozens. That carb may not be clean. It is hard to get them completely clean and most take short cuts including me. The small passages with the lead bird shot or more likely the ones with the round aluminum plugs may have dirt behind them. My process to clean is to clean outside and spray with carb cleaner than put in can of chem-clean or berrymans or chem dip for 24 hours or more, swishing can a few times during that period. Then take out and clean with carb cleaner once more then blow passages with compressed air. Some use soap and water to clean after the dip which makes not much sense to me. If this does not make it run right an ultra sonic cleaner may break up the crud in the carb. If the carb is still funky, take out the aluminum plugs and repeat this process. Still no relief, use carb for paperweight and buy new or used one.

 

[thatone123]

These motors run good on 1 cylinder. I had one last season do that. Changed the power pack and ran on both like new. A compression reading like yours is not the best. Too much difference between cylinders. I have never warm/hot tested them as to compression. Have tested dozens. Cold on 80's models is usually around 90 but not a 5 point difference. Just rebuilt one that had about 80 compression which was detailed on this site with my rod end confusion that I am about to test. Maybe both of your cylinders are about 85, but carbon in the 90 one is making it read higher hot??? Some of the pros here might know about that.

 

[thatone123]

You can make some models of this outboard easier to start by removing the natural safety switch and I also remove all junk that make the starter only start in natural etc. Plus useless carb airbox. You can take over a pound of weight off this portable and make it real simple to operate and start better because you can open the throttle. This is real handy in cooler weather. In cold weather, you might have to put the airbox back due to carb iceing at below 35 degrees.

 

[spybot]

Let us know when the plug leads arrive.
I would like to know if you try out the 25/1 mix I would like to think it could be this any easy fix if it is.

 

[RTripp]

Thanks to everyone for responses. The new wires are supposed to come today. March 1. I am anxious to try the new plug wires. I got a little shock when pulling the top wire off, but WOW I got serious shock from bottom. I was holding on to throttle with right hand and pulling wire with left hand. Shock went right through me to the right hand. YIKES!!

When I took the motor back to the mechanic after my first run with it. The next day when I went to get it I remember the mechanic saying they spent a half hour on the carb. I believe all they did was blow it out. It could need a real good cleaning and a new Kit.

 

[spybot]

Lets take one thing at a time.
Fit the plug leads Try it see how it goes.
Mix up some premix 25/1 in a small Jerry can and run it see how it goes.
If still no change strip the carbs and thoroughly clean them.
Keep us in the loop
Cheers Andy

 

[Fed]

Well .... Started the motor took off top spark plug wire. Motor almost died but kept running. put it back on and rpm picked up a little.

Took the bottom one off and got shocked pretty good. While it was off I noticed spark coming from the other end of plug wire.

and the motor shut off. I went to crank it again and my battery on drill died.

Gotta go to work now. I will try again this afternoon.

This needs to be checked as you won't get good spark to the sparkplug if it's shorting to ground back at the coil end.
I checked the BRP website & it looks like the leads are an integral part of the coils so I'm not sure how you will go with the new replacement leads.
Look for carbon tracking & cracks where the sparkplug lead comes out of the coil.
In the past I've had success by meticulously removing all traces of carbon, clean up & coat with 5 minute araldite.

 

[RTripp]

6;15 and no UPS yet. I have seen them as late as 8:30 this week. It's not even Christmas!!

I will put them on in the morning if they come tonight and check other things as well.

It's really nice of you folks to offer advice. Thank you!

 

[racerone]

I can't believe how impatient some folks are today.-------I say " if you want it done in 2 months it is a rush job "---

 

[jimmbo]

I got a little shock when pulling the top wire off, but WOW I got serious shock from bottom. I was holding on to throttle with right hand and pulling wire with left hand. Shock went right through me to the right hand. YIKES!

You would be much better/safer if you kept your other hand away from the engine when touching spark plug wires. Keep it in your pocket where it can't complete the circuit. In your case, going from hand to hand puts your heart right in the center of the conductor. Hearts are sensitive to shocks of any kind, best to avoid them

 

[RTripp]

cleaned and inspected coils and terminals, connected new spark plug wires - tested spark - great spark!!

but...... now motor won't crank. It did sit a few days with fuel in it So, I opened up the throttle and with no choke on I put the drill to the fly wheel for 30 seconds and not even a hint of cranking. rechecked spark and the spark looks great.

tried again to start - nothing

The primer bulb is tight

I did add more oil to the gas so I am at about 25:1

 

[racerone]

If you have to use a drill to start a motor there is something wrong !---Also a possibility of overtightening the flywheel nut.----And 25:1 will not make it start any easier either.------Trouble shooting needs to be done here.

 

[RTripp]

This afternoon I'm going to try less oil in mixture and if that won't get it to crank then I'm guessing carb kit replacement is next for me.