Converting from vertical 2x4 to horizontal 2x6 bunks

[HRG]

I suggest you put a pair of vertical roller style side guides on the back of the trailer. Otherwise it will be hard to center the boat when you retrieve it.

Tie Down Engineering Boat Loading Roller Guides

Heavy duty 2" roller with end caps. Length of roller is 9" Roller angle adjusts to angle of hull. One piece adjustable clamp with U-bolt. 16 inches of adjustment, 8" on both sides. Easy mounting, fits all channel and tube frames up to 5 inches. Hot galvanized steel...

www.iboats.com

Tall vertical side guide posts are definitely on my to do list. I'll need them to be able to be able to gauge the rear of the trailer when backing up and also to know where the trailer sits in the water when loading.

Thanks for the link to the roller style guide posts. I'll check them out.

 

[HRG]

It has more than ample Bunk Area for 600-800lbs

I don't mind the extra cost or work to convert to flat 2x6 bunks. Can't hurt and more peace of mind for a novice like me.

Another consideration is that the bottom of my boat will extend over the trailer's fenders so I'll have to have the top of the bunks at least 1" higher than the top of the fenders. Adding flat 2x6's (or even flat 2x4's) on top of the vertical 2x4's will help in that endeavor. Thanks.

 

[HRG]

My very first homemade boat was a 16' V-hull with an 80" beam. It ran with a 60 HP 2-stroke. The hull was 3/8" marine plywood. After a few years I pulled the motor and slid her off the trailer to repaint the bottom.

Not a sign of any dents or damage. Oh, that trailer had no carpeted wooden bunks - all little rollers.

Not trying to be argumentative. Just providing facts so that you can make a decision that you will be happy with.

View attachment 367344

I really appreciate your taking the time to help me out.

Does your boat pictured have longitudinal 1x4's on the bottom? My flat bottom jon boat only has the 3/8" plywood bottom with chine logs on the sides. No keel or longitudinal 1x4's for the bottom.

 

[flashback]

Cedar would be an excellent choice.

 

[JimS123]

I really appreciate your taking the time to help me out.

Does your boat pictured have longitudinal 1x4's on the bottom? My flat bottom jon boat only has the 3/8" plywood bottom with chine logs on the sides. No keel or longitudinal 1x4's for the bottom.

The longitudinal "battens" were 1x3", and yes there were 4 of them on the bottom. Additionally, there was a 1x4" keelson running down the center. The chine logs were 2x3". Of course, all of these are located INSIDE the boat, so they only impact structural integrity, not trailer-ability or performance.

The external keel (located outside the hull, and fastened thru to the keelson, was 3/4x1". The chines were hard.

All of these parts were made of oak. They impact on fore to aft flexing, not trailering support, per se'. The ribs are what support the hull on the trailer, and it sounds like you have plenty.

I'm not an expert on jons, but many of the aluminum ones I see have a protruding keel, PLUS two more keels located half way between the center keel and the chine. My 14' semi-V is built that way. Without something like that I would think side slip would be inevitable. But then again, it all depends on how much HP you put on her and how fast you want to go. Obviously, at displacement speeds it may not make a difference.

 

[airshot]

I think you're right about fillets not being necessary. I'll just glue and screw.

I don't remember seeing untreated 2x4 or 2x6 pine lumber at Home Depot, Lowes or other local lumber stores in my area. Lots of treated lumber though. I have bought redwood and cedar 2x4's for fence building in the past so they are available. I don't see 2x6x8' cedar listed online for local HD or Lowes.

Also not sure if 1/2" stainless steel staples for the carpets will have holding power in cedar or if they will come off over time.

Just think about going with 2x4 rather than 2x6, going with simple 2x4 will more than double the load area you now have. Treated lumber isnt necessary, just dont coer the bunk on all sides so the water can drain out from the wood. The quicker the wood dries, the longer it will last. My jon boat trailer uses just plain ole 2x4 pine with carpet on three sides, been on there over 5 years with no sign of deterioration.

 

[HRG]

Cedar would be an excellent choice.

OK, will use cedar for horizontal bunk supported by pressure treated vertical 2x4. Thanks.

 

[HRG]

The longitudinal "battens" were 1x3", and yes there were 4 of them on the bottom. Additionally, there was a 1x4" keelson running down the center. The chine logs were 2x3". Of course, all of these are located INSIDE the boat, so they only impact structural integrity, not trailer-ability or performance.

The external keel (located outside the hull, and fastened thru to the keelson, was 3/4x1". The chines were hard.

All of these parts were made of oak. They impact on fore to aft flexing, not trailering support, per se'. The ribs are what support the hull on the trailer, and it sounds like you have plenty.

I'm not an expert on jons, but many of the aluminum ones I see have a protruding keel, PLUS two more keels located half way between the center keel and the chine. My 14' semi-V is built that way. Without something like that I would think side slip would be inevitable. But then again, it all depends on how much HP you put on her and how fast you want to go. Obviously, at displacement speeds it may not make a difference.

*** Pictures omitted to save bandwidth ***

Thanks for posting the pics. I bought a 6 HP outboard for my 12 foot jon boat. Will be going at trolling speeds when traveling to try to catch some fish. So will be going at displacement speeds.

 

[HRG]

Just think about going with 2x4 rather than 2x6, going with simple 2x4 will more than double the load area you now have. Treated lumber isnt necessary, just dont coer the bunk on all sides so the water can drain out from the wood. The quicker the wood dries, the longer it will last. My jon boat trailer uses just plain ole 2x4 pine with carpet on three sides, been on there over 5 years with no sign of deterioration.

OK. Since folks here said their bunks are short "vertical" 2x4's (like 3 feet), I'll skip the horizontal 2x6 bunks and go with horizontal 2x4 bunks.

I know that cedar 2x4's are available in my area so I'll look for two of the hardest straight cedar 2x4's for my bunks. Hardest so the staples will not come off. Will glue and screw the cedar 2x4's on top of vertical PT pine 2x4's. Bunks will be 8 feet long to extend from under the transom to where the bottom curves upward at the bow.

Thanks.