Connecting Kicker Motor

kfederig

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Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Messages
2
Hi I have a 2000 Lund Fisherman with a 2000 115 Hp Johnson 2 Stroke and am in the process of installing a Mercury 9.9 Pro Kicker Tiller handle to the boat. I'm thinking about using the E.Z.-Steer system. Will this system allow me to raise and lower either motor
with the E.Z Steer bar still attached?
I mounted the motor pretty central to the space between the 115 Hp Motor and the side of the boat. But if I turn the big motor all the way to the right it will hit the small motor.
And if I turn the Kicker Motor all the way to the left the Tiller handle hits the side of the boat. It looks like I can leave the Tiller handle in the vertical position to avoid hitting the boat. And as long as both Motors are linked they shouldn't hit each other.
Doe's anyone have any comments our suggestions?IMG_20210509_125053015.jpgIMG_20210509_125212112.jpgIMG_20210509_125140892.jpg
 

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
8,187
You need to have full tiller operation if you ever need to use the kicker by itself. It doesn't really matter if the motors hit because you'll never turn them in different directions anyway.

Personally I don't like the ezsteer and would never own one. I do think they can be left on with one motor going up, but I don't know for sure. They look chinsey to me.

Both motors have either a steering rod or a forward handle where a ball joint can be mounted. I always make my own steering setups using 5/16" SS threaded rod. Then I cover them with 5/16 plastic tubing. The ends are equipped with quick detachable ball joint fittings. They come on or off in about 15 seconds.

The pic shows a 2 level mounting on my SeaRay. Easy peasy. The 2 motors on my Whaler (and other boats I have owned) are on the same level, so the rod was straight and required no finagling.

P3310005web.jpg
 

kfederig

Recruit
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Messages
2
You need to have full tiller operation if you ever need to use the kicker by itself. It doesn't really matter if the motors hit because you'll never turn them in different directions anyway.

Personally I don't like the ezsteer and would never own one. I do think they can be left on with one motor going up, but I don't know for sure. They look chinsey to me.

Both motors have either a steering rod or a forward handle where a ball joint can be mounted. I always make my own steering setups using 5/16" SS threaded rod. Then I cover them with 5/16 plastic tubing. The ends are equipped with quick detachable ball joint fittings. They come on or off in about 15 seconds.

The pic shows a 2 level mounting on my SeaRay. Easy peasy. The 2 motors on my Whaler (and other boats I have owned) are on the same level, so the rod was straight and required no finagling.

View attachment 339690
Thanks Jims123,
That's a neat looking setup. I'm sure it didn't cost anywhere near the $260 they want for the E.Z. Steer or similar systems. I may make one like that also. Where did you get the quick detachable ball joint fittings?
And how to they attach to the Stainless threaded rod? Did you heat the rod before you bent it? Could you possible take a couple close up of where the rod connects to the Motors? I just started looking into this and don't know much about it.
I really appreciate your assistance with this!


Thanks, Kevin
 

matt167

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
4,159
The cheapest way to get what you want is the Attwood kit which costs $20.. If the steering link is too short ( by looks, it is not too short ), you can get stainless all thread at fastenal with the right thread to use the quick ball joints and brackets from the Attwood kit. If your in fresh water, hardware store all thread will work too.
 

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
8,187
Thanks Jims123,
That's a neat looking setup. I'm sure it didn't cost anywhere near the $260 they want for the E.Z. Steer or similar systems. I may make one like that also. Where did you get the quick detachable ball joint fittings?
And how to they attach to the Stainless threaded rod? Did you heat the rod before you bent it? Could you possible take a couple close up of where the rod connects to the Motors? I just started looking into this and don't know much about it.
I really appreciate your assistance with this!


Thanks, Kevin
I bought detachable ball and joint sockets from McMaster some years ago.

Here was a quick google search. Try eb for a better price.


They mount to SS allthread. The pic here was an old setup that I used to connect an OB on a bracket to an I/O. That was my first job - now I use all SS fittings.

IMG_3481.jpg
 

matt167

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
4,159
I bought detachable ball and joint sockets from McMaster some years ago.

Here was a quick google search. Try eb for a better price.


They mount to SS allthread. The pic here was an old setup that I used to connect an OB on a bracket to an I/O. That was my first job - now I use all SS fittings.

View attachment 339707

Panther has these for $16/ 2 of them right on Iboats,http://ww2.iboats.com/Panther-Pair-...6072286--session_id.090367943--view_id.163196 but the Attwood kit gives you the motor brackets, balljoints and zinc all thread for $20
 
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