Compression 1959 sea king 35hp

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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If that is assembled correctly it will not leak when engine is running !
 

F_R

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OK, so this is getting frustrating for all of us. Everything we suggest results in an "Already been there, done that". So let's sit back and do some out of the box thinking.

1. I seriously doubt the lower carbon seal is making it run on one cylinder. I've seen way too many of those engines run to destruction due to water intrusion through the lower bearing when the seal was broken or missing. The point being, they ran very well with no seal, at least well enough that nobody detected it until the whole thing turned to trash.

2. I've never gone to the trouble to test the seal with air pressure as you have, so have no idea what to expect.

3. The carbon has to slide up and down on the crankshaft to maintain contact with the bearing as the shaft moves up and down in its end-play limitation. Actually that is said wrong. The shaft slides up and down in the seal quad ring. So, the question is - is the seal maintaining contact? Quad rings are chosen over o-rings because they are better suited for use on sliding situations. Sliding or not, see #1

4. As a BTW, the carbon seal is an adaptation from shaft seals used on millions of well-water pumps. A sound and proven design.

5. I had a thought in mind when I asked whether it has spark on the lower cylinder while it is running. OK, the thought was possibly the vacuum cut-out switch has a broken spring inside, or maybe a petrified diaphragm. Could result in spark while cranking, but lose it when actually running?

So, those are my thoughts. Money refunded if they don't work.
 

racerone

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I was not there.----But where bearings properly located on the dowel pins ??
 

42 Clyde

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Aug 4, 2020
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Normal crankcase pressure runs around 4-.5psi

Does the lower cylinder have spark while it is running?
I first want to apologize to F_R. I wrote the post about the 4 psi befour i read your post about the 4-5 psi. Boy i sounded like a jerk. Sorry.

so i have ben fighting with this thing all summer. I rebuilt it over last winter. I realy wouldent care about it so much if it wasnt my grandfathers boat. He promised me when i was 6 that we would take it out and go fishing. It lasted about 10 min befour it over heated and we had to row back. That was 1986. He passed away 2 years ago. Thats when i got the boat. I promised my grand mother i would get her out in the boat befour she passes. We dont expect her to last the winter. So this summer may be my last shot. So i do apoligise if i come off weird im not very good in social situations aswell.

I have ben tinkering with this thing about 2 hours a day for weeks. I can field strip this thing down to the short block and back to running in about 1.5 hours.
right now i have it down to the absolute minimum equipment to run. That means i dont have any cut offs connected to the points right now. Disconnected and taped off for testing purposes.

yes the dowel pins are in the block in the right spots.
 

F_R

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I am out of ideas also. Well maybe one more. You say you have swapped everything in the ignition system. Does that include the spark plug wires? Could one be arcing through to the armature plate where it is clamped to the plate?

Have we suggested the possibility of it ingesting water into that lower cylinder? Actually, that is fairly common. They would develop a pin hole in the inner exhaust cover plate on the side of the powerhead. Then squirt water into the exhaust ports.
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
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9,612
My '58 Sea King was a good runner, provided the carb was squeaky clean and the magneto was completely refreshed (meaning new wires, coils, points, Champion plugs, condensers.) My impression was that it was somehow not as quiet as an evinrude or Johnson sister motor, but ran well. You might replace the head gasket and resurface the mating surface of the head, on the chance that there was an overheating event. You may gain some improvement in compression.

If you like the Sea King, you might try a smaller one for a kicker. The 5 (5 1/2?) has a self contained tank, and as I recall the option to use a portable tank as well. Like the 35, they are good dependable motors and easy to refurbish. Wire on all of them is the 7mm metal core.
 

393Clevor

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May 18, 2019
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209
Just going to throw this out there.. but I had a 56 10hp Johnson that gave me trouble like what you talking about.. I had that thing apart 100 times it seems.. it would run ok for a minute then not .. replaced everything seal and all, it had those same seal you are dealing with and nothing changed.. that's the thing that drove me nuts.. nothing changed after I replaced everything.. it ended up being the wear plate under the mag/ignition plate was worn.. it felt tight had very little to no play when I had the flywheel off.. I took my video camera and recorded the mag plate as I spun the flywheel and you wouldn't believe how much it moved.. unreal but you grab it and try to take the play/slop out of it and it felt nice and tight.. I ended up machining the surfaces kinda back yard style and it worked 100% I could not believe how nice it ran after.. I have some videos of what I'm talking about on youtubes.. see video.. I have some other videos on there too.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9Fla6PpWv4
 
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