Cold Starting - Procedure questions ??

[big_chief]

Hey guys,

I searched the net and pretty found what I was looking for... just had afew questions I couldnt get a clear answer on. Motor is 2001 Yami V6 150

These questions are referring to trailered, ear muff cold starts.

1 - for some reason I thought it was not a good idea to start a cold motor (sitting 1-2 weeks) with throttle, like 1500-2500 rpm? And/or feathering the throttle just as it cranks up.

2 - (key prime question) For years, I have started my motor without using throttle... my procedure has been... primp, push key 2-3 times, then crank (usually starts, if not)... re-check prime, push key once, full throttle then back to neatral once, pull choke (manual on motor), crank. This usually get its everytime.

My question... which never dawned on me. When I push the key, I am just pushing it and releasing it. Then turning to start... should I be pushing while I am turning to start? I know it gives it a shot of full each time... was always just trying to be conscious of too much fuel.

Also for clarity. is the key push considered a choke? I have a manual pull choke on the motor itself. I dont need to use it often, unless its been weeks though. Any difference?

Let me know if Im off on something... I have had the boat/motor for years, without any issues... just always wondered this. I am writing this as my neighboor is full reving his motor in the yard... ha. Thanks,

 

[Maclin]

That is a newer engine than I am used to, but I believe pushing in the key activates the choke solenoid, so it would need to be held in while crankng at first to choke the carb. Having the throttle open a bit to just off idle will help. If yours is EFi or something like that then this is probably not good info.

So, if the key is just a choke then I would: Prime the bulb, hold Key in with throttle in throttle only and open a bit, then crank. If no go after 10 seconds or so then reprime bulb and repeat. If 2 or 3 cycles of this do not work then open the throttle up to halfway (be ready to pull it back should it catch), then crank with no choke.

 

[Maclin]

And do not rev past 2000 on just the muffs for water supply. Make sure the water is at a good pressure and running out past the ears before trying to crank. Your neighbor's impeller is on borrowed time

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Donno yer particular motor, But,....

Carbed motors like alittle throttle action to get started, especially on stone cold motors,...

Mine, bein' a 4.3, I/O, I pump the throttle Twice to Wot, to set the choke, 'n prime it, then pull back to 'bout 3/4, 'n hit the key,....
If she Lights off, I quickly pull back to as low an idle as it'll still run, til I see oil pressure on the gauge,...
Then I run it up to 'bout 1,000/ 1200 rpms to warm at hi-idle for a few minutes,...

If it Don't start,... I'll pump Wot a couple more times, 'n repeat the process above,...

Pumpin' to Wot, on My carb, not only sets the choke, but pumps raw gas into the intake,...
Kinda like yer primer button, I believe, a raw gas prime,...

On yer primer button,... I believe the key has to be "On" to make it work,... atleast any I've seen, work that way,...

 

[big_chief]

Ive read that starting procedures vary between motors... makes sense. My 01 Yami is carb'd.

Most of the topics I read about don't specify earmuffs of water. So it seems that I'm not that far off, in that high revs ON EARMUFFS should be used with caution.

On my key switch. Its 3 position (off, on, start). I do have to turn it to ON, when I push the key. I can hear the solinoid click on the motor when I do this. I think I'll give it a try next time pushing the key and starting at the same time.. just see if I get an different result.

Everything has been fine with the motor... I was just seeking some clarity on this. Thanks.

For what its worth... using my regular procedure... (without any throttle or pushing key while turning) it usually fires in 2-3 cranks. When it cranks, the rpms are a bit low for about 3 seconds (600-700, which makes sense casue I dont give it any throttle), then raise to about 800 on its own. The motor has never died once it catches... just smoke for about 3-5 seconds, then 800 on its own. If its been sitting longer than a week, I sometimes feather throttle after about 1-2 mins of running to about 1000-1200 for afew seconds, then let it run about 5-10 mins at 800.

Thanks for the insights.

 

[UncleWillie]

There seem to be a little confusion as to what action, does what.

Pushing IN the key usually activated the Choke Solenoid which closes the Choke.
You would normally hold the key IN, Choke closed while cranking. Release shortly after start.
If you have a manual Choke, the solenoid is likely doing nothing but going click, and not moving anything.
Pushing the key IN multiple times does nothing for a non-running engine; Solenoid attached to the choke or not!
If your choke is thermostat controlled, Pushing once may set the choke, The thermostat will release the choke once the engine warms up.
Have a look back there to see what, if anything, the solenoid is doing.

Pumping the throttle, cycles the Accelerator Pump, giving a small squirt or raw fuel down the throat.
Each cycle of the throttle adds another squirt until the carb bowl goes empty.
This is the equivalent of priming the engine.
The slight loss of RPMs immediately after start, is caused by a half-filled carb bowl getting refilled once the fuel pump comes to life.

 

[big_chief]

Uncle Willie... THANKS! What you said makes perfect sense...

First, I did assume that when I pushed the key I was getting a small squirt of gas... (this further reinforces all motors/controls are different) because I had a small jon boat with a 28 Johnson afew years back. It was a custom boat... but the key push on this boat DID actually squirt gas into the carb. I was able to visually see the squirt with the cowl off. Now, on the my current 150 Yami, the carbs have an airbox that I never bothered to remove while I pushed the key. I just assumed, since both motors had a solinoid that clicked... <-I know... bad thing to just assume.

Second, what you said also makes sense when I pull the manual choke on the motor. When I pull this... If I hit the key push, nothing happens. Essentially, the manual over rides the key, which now makes sense. In the past, when I did the manual, the motor cranked so I never thought anything of it.

Thanks... I walk away with this...

1. My key push and motor manual choke are essentially the same thing. But I have never been using the key push properly in the first place. Push the key AND crank... will save me a trip to the motor to do it manually for now on.

2. What I thought was actually squirting gas was not... it was when I pumped the throttle that squirted the gas.

3. I'll quit assuming and pull the cowl next time....

Thanks guys,

 

[steelespike]

I've never had a outboard over 50 hp but here's my cold start procedure. Squeeze primer bulb till firm not beyond, Advance throttle beyond idle speed.
Some have a separate high idle lever others you pull out the throttle lever in order to advance the idle.Start the motor while pushing in the key.
On start reduce the speed as required ,a momentary slightly high idle and a push of the key may be needed to keep a cold motor running.
While the initial fast idle may be really high until you reduce speed; it is highly unlikely to have a runaway on a cold motor.
I'm surprised you have a separate hand choke on your relatively new 150 motor.Does it appear to be factory?
While I can't speak to the big motors over 50 hp. I never saw a 50 hp that had a accelerator pump so operating the throttle does nothing
for priming. It is safe to say that all carbed automotive sourced I/Os have an accelerator pump.So "pumping the gas" will help prime a cold motor.
All my outboards dating back to 61 responded better on a cold start with the throttle advanced beyond idle.
It's safe to say a motor set at idle on cold start will initially struggle.

 

[Maclin]

My 1980 model Mariner 90 OB has a hand choke pull but it is under the cowl, I figure it is for mechaincs to use with a helper, that kind of thing.