Close on the formula

dubs283

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the block has casted 880 between the welch plugs on stbd side. also the casting number above the flywheel ends with 880
 

dubs283

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definitely not vintage to the boat, replaced at one time prior to current ownership

its a labor of love that keeps me outta trouble
 

dubs283

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guessing the cause of this was the reason for the long block r and r20230701_180744.jpg
 

dubs283

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I wanna visit the store where one can acquire this mcm package complete for $500
 

dubs283

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Post #23 shows an exhaust manifold that has suffered a crack.

What was the cause of this crack?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Will this long block have a 14" flywheel w/ one piece rms?
Won't know until you pull it apart

Probably not on the 14"

The heads are non-vortec. My guess not a true "880" motor. Could just be a new block.

And it is casting number 10243880 that makes it an 880 motor, not an 880 cast on the side

If it has a mechanical fuel pump, it's not an 880 motor
 

dubs283

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If it has a mechanical fuel pump, it's not an 880 motor

Good to know. It does have a mechanical pump with the sight glass on the side, no tygon hose to the carb

It is a 12 bolt intake so yep, non vortec. I'm guessing this long block assembly vintage is in between the og 2 piece rms and vortec? 260 crank horsepower? It does scoot on step

I will verify full casting number at some point this weekend

I was told with log style manifolds that freeze cracks are horizontal, heat cracks are vertical. My guess is the original motor got cooked pretty good requiring the long block r and r
 

dubs283

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You guys ever drink orange juice immediately after brushing your teeth?

Yuck
 

dubs283

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A few years back I purchased a 1982 Ford econoline club wagon. 2wd with a 351 windsor. 38k miles original, nice rig

Only major issue I noted was at times it would puke oil out the rms. 2 piece rms being roughly 40 years old. I know what to do now

One summer I decided to pull the motor and give it a reseal, not down to head gaskets but everything else was inspected/replaced

Now I'd never gone this far in depth with a ford engine but I figured I can get by with my knowledge, an mcm vintage manual for specs and local/online part houses. It worked out great

After removing the oil pan and getting eyes on the rms cap/housing I had no idea what I was looking for. When I removed the cap I saw an empty groove where the rms should be. Ford sent this block out with no rms in place, Friday motor

Installed a new rms with anaerobic red silicone and never lost a drop out of the rms again.
 

dubs283

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The number casted into the block above the flywheel, stbd side reads 10243880
 

dubs283

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haven't gone cinderella yet with the mounted package but this is the best photo of the fuel pump setup you'll see today
 
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