Clanking/rattling sound after prop change

Joshto

Seaman
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Jul 29, 2019
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74
Update here. Finally got to the boat today. I switched to my 3 blade aluminum prop, using the same new rubber hub I had installed the 4-blade with. Went out to the lake, full tank and 3 people in the boat....no rattling or clanking whatsoever past 4000 rpms. There was only one time when I seem to have heard something during the holeshot but I couldn't reproduce it after a few tries. So definitely that 4 blade prop is causing the engine to make the noise...seems to be lugging the engine. Too bad if that's the case, I love the thrust the four blade prop has.
 

Franco_boater

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Nov 2, 2021
Messages
112
Two red flags.

Going from aluminum to stainless, you normally need to drop 1" in pitch. You kept it the same

Going from 3 blades to 4 you normally need to drop 1" in pitch. You kept it the same

To go from a 3 blade aluminum to a 4 blade stainless, you should be at 17p. Not the 19p you bought.

You are lugging your motor. That rattling is the motor detonating and eating itself
Hello, Can i ask you one question?
I was using 3 blade 19P, this year i bought 4 Blade Prop 19P to have better hole shot. both aluminium props
I haven’t been boating yet . Alpha one gen 2,
do you think It will generate some problems?
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Going from aluminum to stainless, you normally need to drop 1" in pitch. You kept it the same

Going from 3 blades to 4 you normally need to drop 1" in pitch. You kept it the same

To go from a 3 blade aluminum to a 4 blade stainless, you should be at 17p. Not the 19p you bought.
30 years ago you'd have been right, not today.

About then Merc released their new range of props, along with a parts bulletin outlining that the old philosophy of dropping an inch of pitch was no longer needed as the new rengineering and design of props matched inch for inch across 3 and 4 blade and regardless of materials... Other manufacturers have also followed suit.

Chris...
 
Last edited:

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... With all the damage to those plugs after only 8 hrs. run time, I'm goin' with massive detonation,.....
The corners of the electrodes are rounded right off,....
 

Rick Stephens

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Aug 13, 2013
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Ayuh,..... With all the damage to those plugs after only 8 hrs. run time, I'm goin' with massive detonation,.....
The corners of the electrodes are rounded right off,....
Not to mention droplets of metal welded right to them.
 

Bondo

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Staff member
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70,891
So what could be the cause and possible solutions?
Ayuh,..... Timin' to advanced, or more likely, a lean condition, when it can't make enough power to get to Wot, at 4800 rpms,.... aka: lugging,...
 

Joshto

Seaman
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Messages
74
Ayuh,..... Timin' to advanced, or more likely, a lean condition, when it can't make enough power to get to Wot, at 4800 rpms,.... aka: lugging,...
Thanks. I will start with the fuel mixture. The strange thing is this engine can easily get to 4800 RPMs. Runs smoothly. Except for the noise with the 4-blade prop, the engine appears to be performing great.
 

Joshto

Seaman
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Jul 29, 2019
Messages
74
Quick one here before I go into troubleshooting mode this weekend.

About the fuel mixture adjustment. I'm going to tune it as per the manual but isn't that needle only for Idling? I mean, should that affect the engine's performance while revving high RPMs?

I'll check the timing is correct (it should be 6° BTDC as per the manual). If it is, what else can I check? Maybe try higher octane fuel?

Btw, about this comment:

Rick Stephens said:
Not to mention droplets of metal welded right to them.

There isn't such thing as metal droplets on the sparks - that's the microscope's light effect on the uneven surface. Sparks have nothing attached to them except the appearance of burned metal.

Thanks
Josh
 

rustybronco

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 24, 2021
Messages
134
The idle circuit is in play from idle to somewhere around 1,500 rpm's. Not sure on the exact rpm but should be close enough for your question.
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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6,347
Quick one here before I go into troubleshooting mode this weekend.

About the fuel mixture adjustment. I'm going to tune it as per the manual but isn't that needle only for Idling? I mean, should that affect the engine's performance while revving high RPMs?

I'll check the timing is correct (it should be 6° BTDC as per the manual). If it is, what else can I check? Maybe try higher octane fuel?
Check that that the timing not only intial but full advance is correct

As mentioned by others the idle mix screw is only for idle through about 1500 rpm then the main venturi takes over. Things that will lean out main mix is any obstruction in fuel delivery-
Pump
pick up tube clogged
antisiphon valve
clogged fuel filter (normally in bowl in bottom of fuel pump on 3.0)
Fuel tank vent plugged

Also carb could be be in need of teardown, cleaning, and rebuild.
If the main jets or power valve (or piston for power valve) is clogged they will run lean.
 

Joshto

Seaman
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Jul 29, 2019
Messages
74
Check that that the timing not only intial but full advance is correct

As mentioned by others the idle mix screw is only for idle through about 1500 rpm then the main venturi takes over. Things that will lean out main mix is any obstruction in fuel delivery-
Pump
pick up tube clogged
antisiphon valve
clogged fuel filter (normally in bowl in bottom of fuel pump on 3.0)
Fuel tank vent plugged

Also carb could be be in need of teardown, cleaning, and rebuild.
If the main jets or power valve (or piston for power valve) is clogged they will run lean.
Thanks for the details. I plan to rebuild the carb offseason.
 

Joshto

Seaman
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Jul 29, 2019
Messages
74
Check that that the timing not only intial but full advance is correct
Also, can anyone help me confirm the right manual for my engine (L375837)? Is it #26 or #10? When I enter the serial number in https://www.mercruiserparts.com/ it throws this range:

3.0L GM 181 I/L4 1 1998 - 0L010042 THRU 0L096999​

And that corresponds to Manual #26.

1661369634915.png
If it's indeed 26, then the initial timing varies. I assume mine is 1 BTCD, correct?

1661367902617.png

As per manual #26, full advance timing should be automatically set by the distributor after setting the Initial Timing at Idle.

1661369537718.png
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,347
Also, can anyone help me confirm the right manual for my engine (L375837)? Is it #26 or #10? When I enter the serial number in https://www.mercruiserparts.com/ it throws this range:

3.0L GM 181 I/L4 1 1998 - 0L010042 THRU 0L096999​

And that corresponds to Manual #26.

View attachment 368747
If it's indeed 26, then the initial timing varies. I assume mine is 1 BTCD, correct?

View attachment 368743

As per manual #26, full advance timing should be automatically set by the distributor after setting the Initial Timing at Idle.

View attachment 368746
Seems correct for your serial number- your initial timing (set in base mode) should be 1 deg BTDC- not in base mode 12 deg , then total timing 23 BTDC at 2800 rpm. if for some reason module is bad could be pulling in more advance... or could need setting
 

Joshto

Seaman
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Messages
74
Final update.
Glad to report the issue is gone. As suggested by most of you, the problem was a mix of a lean condition and too advanced timing. The timing was set to the older model's spec, 6 degrees (that explains why it blew the gasket last summer). I delayed it to 1 degree following the manual and improved lots. Then I adjusted the fuel mixture; the needle was about half turned towards the lean side.

I finally got the engine idle/fwd at ~700 RPMs in the water. The shift now engages softly....you can barely hear the gear apply, particularly in reverse.

Went out to the lake with the four-blade prop. While it was only me, a full fuel tank and a heavy toolbox, I could tell right away it would perform better when loaded.

The engine runs smoother, quieter, has more responsive throttle and has more power. It comes out the hole shot faster and reaches speeds (way over 40mph, at 4k revs) I'd never seen in this boat since I bought it. It had plenty of power left to go even faster, but the lake was choppy (~2-feet waves).

Good thing I don't need to rebuild the carb and I can use the new prop without blowing the gasket again.

Thanks, everyone, for your input. This forum rocks.
 

airshot

Rear Admiral
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Jul 22, 2008
Messages
4,975
30 years ago you'd have been right, not today.

About then Merc released their new range of props, along with a parts bulletin outlining that the old philosophy of dropping an inch of pitch was no longer needed as the new rengineering and design of props matched inch for inch across 3 and 4 blade and regardless of materials... Other manufacturers have also followed suit.

Chris...
Must be gettin really old as this does not make much sense to this old brain...When you add an extra blade with the same pitch, you should be moving more water which puts more strain on an engine. Just for curiosity, I have been looking at getting a spare prop for my boat. Thinking a change in blades, pitch etc might squeek out a little more speed. In all the sites I have been to, they have always recomended dropping 1-2" in pitch when moving to a 4 blade. Now I am more confused than ever, gettin old I guess....
 

Joshto

Seaman
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Messages
74
When you add an extra blade with the same pitch, you should be moving more water which puts more strain on an engine.
And this would explain why the 4 blade prop exposed the timing issue of my engine.
 
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