chrysler voltage regulator

[northworm23]

Hello all. I have a 1977? - 75 hp - 757HC with a bad voltage regulator (#195-4470). I'm new to this outboard thing and was wondering if I could replace the regulator with something less expensive that functions the same. Or, maybe someone could direct me where to find a deal on one. Thanks.

 

[RRitt]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

is it a square block bolted to side of starter bracket with four spade lugs sticking straight out? does it have four wires screwed into the spade lugs with 8/32 machine screws? <br /><br />if so, then it is nothing more than an industry standard "square bridge" rectifier. The only rating your care about is amperage. 30A is your dead minimum. Chrysler used 40A modules. It would not hurt to use 50A. the higher amperage won't make any difference except that the unit is less likely to burn out if you have a momentary short circuit.<br /><br />you can buy them from any electronics supply house for $4 each. I wouldn't be surprised if radio shack carried them. They are a fundamental building block of modern electronics.

 

[northworm23]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

Thanks for the reply RRit! <br />It sounds like what you're describing. It does have four spades: 2 for AC, 1 positive (+) I'm asuming for DC, and on that's grounded to the starter. I'm not sure how to attach a pic to this, but there is a pic located at: www.outboardparts.com - chrysler/force - VOLTAGE REGULATOR # 195-4470. If you still belive a standard "square bridge" rectifier will work, please let me know. <br />Also, is the sole purpose of the voltage regulator to rectify AC into DC to charge my battery? Or does it play some other roles as well? <br />Thanks again!

 

[RRitt]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

this is a square bridge rectifier.<br /> http://mysite.verizon.net/vze1otp1/Ebay/25a400vbridgerectifier2.jpg <br /><br />industry standard is for metal plate on bottom to dissipate heat and be compatible with grounded chassis.

 

[northworm23]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

Thanks again. Do you think that will work for me? Here's a direct link with the photo of mine.<br /><br /> http://www.colortomorrow.com/obimages/195-4470.JPG

 

[RRitt]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

i can't tell much of anything from that photo. <br /><br />you need to take a better picture of your actual unit that clearly shows the connections and any printing on the unit.<br /><br />there are two separate electrical design functions commonly lumped together with a "voltage regulator". One is the conversion of AC alternator output to raw DC voltage. The other is regulating the DC voltage so that it does not fluctuate with engine speed.<br /><br />In most early outboards the battery provides the regulation. However, if your battery connections become corroded or your battery is disconected while engine is running then you could damage engine electronics. before the mid-90's chrysler/force electronics were of a more durable design and this wasn't such a big issue. However, it can not hurt to have voltage regulation at the engine.<br /><br />from your picture I can not tell if that is rectifier or rectifier+regulation.

 

[RRitt]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

according to cross references, your engine has rectifier only. it would not be surprising if someone used a different unit with regulator. <br />IF you have a very expensive fish finder <br />AND<br />your batteries are in the stern where they are subject to a lot of corrosion<br />AND<br />power for instrument panel comes from a lug clamped to battery cable<br /><br />THEN corroded battery terminals could blow out your fish finder.<br /><br />HOWEVER, if your battery has split posts where the engine cable clamps onto one end and the instrument cable is wingnutted onto the other then corroded terminals combined with rectifier only won't cause electronics failure (unless you have mid-90 engine, in which case it's already just looking for any excuse to break).

 

[RRitt]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

hmmm ....<br />more digging ...<br />the part in your picture is a Motorola 6PR2005a<br />it appears to include both regulation and rectification. that's good news/bad news<br /><br />good news is that regulation is a good thing.<br />bad news is that it is no longer a generic part that you can find at the local radio shack. Even if you find it as a motorola electronics component instead of a gold-plated mercury marine electronics component it will still be pricey. Even if a surplus electronics store got some, it's the type of thing they might charge $10-$15 for. <br /><br />you could still use the generic square bridge if this part is NLA or if you can't find anybody who can get you one and you need a temporary fix (just make sure that your battery connections are good and clean).<br /><br />search ebay for "Motorola 6PR2005a"<br />include searching text as well as titles.<br />sooner or later something should pop up.

 

[northworm23]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

thanks again for the intel, you've been quite helpful. I was able to locate the chrysler/mercury part for $55.00...ouch! That radio shack option sure sounded better. Oh well. I'm gonna see if I can't find one with the motorla cross reference for less...<br />Thanks again!<br />Also, my engine leads and electronics are attached to the same post on the battery. Is that bad? (This is an old boat with much re-wiring and re-rigging...kind of mickey moused)

 

[RRitt]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

with a voltage regulator between the alternator and the electrical system it doesn't matter. system voltage is controlled at the source.<br /><br />but ... <br />if there is no voltage regulator at the alternator then the battery acts as the voltage regulator. It is a quite good regulator and if you keep your boat in tip-top condition there's no problem using it.<br /><br />However, what about not-quite-tip-top?<br /><br />If your battery terminal is corroded, then the voltage into your electronics equals 12V plus the voltage across corroded connection. If you disconnect battery with engine running then you get peak alternator output to all your electronics. Either situation is very often enough to fry stuff. corroded terminals slow-cook your fish finder and disconnected battery is a fast-fry.<br /><br />Mercury's minimum markup is 400% wheras electronics distributors will settle for doubling their cost. So if mmercury wants $55 then the motorola wholesaler is selling them for under $13 each. This means an electronics place will sell them for under $26. Trick will be finding someone who has the motorola part number. Try Ebay. You can put in even the most obscure part numbers and they often come back with it.

 

[northworm23]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

Once again, a thousand thanks! I'll keep searching for the motorola part and see what I can't come up with. Also, I had no idea about the effects of battery terminal corrosion. I'll definitely keep up on that. You've been a huge help and I really appreciate it!!

 

[eurolarva]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

According to the mercury site your motor is 1976. The voltage regulator/rectifier is $299 and is availible. Here is a link to the part<br /> Voltage Regulator

 

[RRitt]

Re: chrysler voltage regulator

i just did a quick search on ebay with motorola part number. It came up for $24<br /><br />I guess that mean mercury is no longer happy with a mere 400% markup. Apparently 20 times cost is the new standard for a plastic bag with "quicksilver" written on it.