Cherry condition 1974 Startcraft 16 foor Super Sport - upgrades

[redneck joe]

Nice.

 

[wrunner74]

a few more pictures, first the water pump innards...there was nothing left of the impeller fins.


a shot of the dash, excuse the sawdust mess under the passenger side, I had just cut the opening for the stereo. The black covering on the rails is foam pipe insulation I found in the garage. I'm considering adding it all around to protect the metal, or not.... No adhesives required it just snaps on and off.



The drivers pedestal seat, $79 for the post and $40 for the seat. Good enough.
Set so my knees don't hit the steering wheel. It swivel's 360 and locks forward.
That old Hummingbird LCR 8000 is still in working order, but provides a very crude display. 1980's tech.
(See the original LCR 8000 commerical on youtube, LOL https://youtu.be/lz2EF4oTY98 )
A new Lowrance Elite 5 Combo HDI (a closeout for a bargain https://youtu.be/N07hXvRC3Qs ) will be here tomorrow along with a bimini top (at the request of the boss, she likes to stay dry). We'll see how that works out.




cruising past my friends mansion.

 

[Watermann]

Oh man that water pump was thrashed. A water pump kit is one of the first things a guy should do when you get a new to you boat no matter what the year.

 

[GA_Boater]

There ya go. Do you think that was a buck well spent? LOL

Was the impeller work before or after the previous weak tell tale talk?

 

[wrunner74]

Boat has been running great, added a new floor layer and I/O carpeting...however, yesterday at a crowded boat landing on a shallow lake, I was forced to navigate backwards out of the dock approach channel due to some knuckle head who pulled his boat right up to mine as I was launching. I hit something and the boat lurched a bot...I managed to get out into deeper water and rode around without any issue all day. Unfortunately, when I pulled the boat out, I was missing a chunk of the skeg. It has been repaired at least twice in the past 40 years, but now I'm wondering if I should just leave it or install a skeg guard. Problem may be finding one to fit a 74 motor.

Boat landing etiquette is really out the window these days.

 

[jbcurt00]

You laid a new deck over the existing carpet and deck?

What'd ya use for the new deck, how'd ya seal it and how'd ya secure it?

 

[Watermann]

Post up a pic of the damaged skeg, it would help to give proper advice.

 

[wrunner74]

Yes, the new decking is 1/2" AC2 "environmentally friendly" plywood. I did not lay it over carpet, just over the stock vinyl flooring. I considered using marine plywood, but it was almost $50 / sheet and required sealing both sides. Too much hassle and expense for this old tub. The original floor was in OK condition, but soft in spots. I used 100% silicone caulk and 1.50" coated deck screws nearly every square foot. I then used an I/O carpet adhesive to secure non backed I/O carpet. It looks great. I'll take some pics later and post.

Got a call back from the local prop repair shop and it could cost up to $200 to weld the skeg...I'll keep searching got a stainless skeg guard that will fit a 1974 Merc 50hp. That sounds like the best solution. Plenty of skeg left, maybe 1.5 to 2 inch chip missing.

 

[wrunner74]

No Title

Here are some updated photos showing the left dashboard upgrades, marine band radio / MP3 player, charging and voltage monitor and fuse panel - new carpet, new Shorelander trailer for $500...the TeeNee was shot.

 

[jbcurt00]

Yes, the new decking is 1/2" AC2 "environmentally friendly" plywood..

That's Micronized Copper Azole treated plywood, which when water leaches out the chemicals, eats aluminum. It's extremely corrosive to aluminum and should NEVER be used in an aluminum boat.

 

[wrunner74]

I heard something about that, (they describe it as environmentally friendly...probably as compared to arsenic) but here's the deal...the boat is 42 years old. It does leak a bit, maybe a few gallons in 3 or 4 hours, but it gets bilged out regularly. The AC2 is above the old decking and separated by the old vinyl flooring. It's not in contact with any aluminum. The intended use is dry conditions and it's always stored indoors The little MCA that gets into the bilge water will be quickly diluted and flushed. Unless it's like hydrochloric acid, I don't think it will ruin my summer and the old girl's summer's are numbered anyway. It's like having and old dog and feeding him whatever he likes knowing he's not long for the world. Plus, if it does corrode that bad, it's the perfect excuse for the boss to get a new boat!

I was cleaning the the garage and found a whole can of Kilz. That might have been good to apply to both sides of the plywood.

 

[jbcurt00]

As you see fit, she is yours to do, but done differently, this ole gals days wouldnt be numbered in 100s, but in multiple 1000s.........

Oh, and the corrosive stuff tends to collect in places that arent well flushed, like seams.

Plan to crush it when you've used her for the last time?

 

[Watermann]

Yeah that looks pretty good runner but we're in love with our Starcraft boats and don't like seeing things done in this fashion. That love and when others come and read threads here they don't get the wrong idea of how things should be done. So that's why the negative response to your upgrades to double decking with PT plywood, silicone and screws.

BTW I don't know if you've seen my Chief but it's older than your SS and it will surely out live me and just maybe if treated good will go another 40+ years.

 

[wrunner74]

Are we 100% sure about that corrosive claim? From what I'm reading elsewhere, MCA is now approved for use with aluminum. ACQ and AC2 chemicals have changed recently to resolve this issue...here's and excerpt from someone in the treated plywood industry:

'' ...have seen numerous posts regarding the use of pressure treated lumber, and its potential corrosive qualities. I am in the pressure treating industry, and want to educate

those folks who may not be clear on this topic.

About 4 years ago, a new treating chemical was introduced that was designed to eliminate the corrosive qualities of the chemical that was in current use. Any lumber purchased at the retail level with an end tag labeled ACQ or AC2 has corrosive qualities and is not designed to be used in direct contact with aluminum. With that, typical metal fasteners like deck screws, nails, joist hangers......had to be "hot-dipped" to protect against corrosion so that any structures being built wouldnt eat the fastener and jeopardize the integrity of the structure. If you tried to use a standard galvanized fastener, or attach aluminum flashing for a deck project, in direct contact with an ACQ or AC2 product, it would dissolve the fastener and aluminum over time.

So an new chemical was introduced; MCA-Micronized Copper Azole, that is approved for direct contact with aluminum. This is a much less corrosive chemical compound and is more similar in design to CCA that was the industry standard prior to the introduction of ACQ and AC2.

Bottom line.....if you want to use pressure treated lumber for your boat deck mods, you can do so by simply making sure that you purchase any product that utilized the micronized copper treatment. Check with folks at the lumber yard and ask them what treatment was used on their product. Most of the industry has moved to this newer chemical, but 1 of the big-box retailers still uses the old stuff.

Good luck with your projects''!

Also the MicroPro page says

" Fasteners - MicroPro? technology offers many benefits including significantly improved corrosion performance. LifeWood? brand pressure treated wood with MicroPro technology exhibit corrosion rates on metal products similar to CCA pressure treated wood and untreated wood."

And finally, one more mention about MicroPro Treatment:

MicroPro is the latest of the formulations for pressure treated wood. Here there are much the same ingredients as in ACQ, the difference being that microscopically ground copper is actually forced inside the wood cells where it cannot come out. This means no more corrosive effect on fasteners or aluminum caused by the copper, no more problems with fresh water lakes and still no arsenic or chrome.

The stuff I used is MicroPro/AC2. See: https://www.menards.com/main/buildin...86341252561822

Here's great article that explains it best. http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/2229-pressure-treated-wood-the-new-generation

I won't be losing any sleep over my choice of materials.

 

[Watermann]

Thanks for the info. I have a few questions about the AC2 you used. Is it wet and heavy like the other stuff or do they kiln dry it? Does it have an A sanded side or is it rough with knots missing or that want to fall out like the other PT ply?

The cost is pretty low so it makes me wonder about the quality as most PT ply has 2 rough sides with lots of voids that make it too weak for spans beyond the standard 16" on center and then add cutouts in a boat deck makes me wonder how well it would do. How many plys does the 1/2" have?

As good as they make AC2 sound I hate to cherry pick one phrase but it stuck in my head which above all else makes me not want to use it in my boats "significantly improved corrosion performance" I would still choose ply that has no corrosive properties years down the road. The quote came from Menards site.

 

[jbcurt00]

You described your choice as AC2 treated, as did Menards, but in the specs its MCA

I'd rather err on the side of caution....

 

[wrunner74]

AC2 / MicroPro is what they call it now. The AC part is what confuses many. As I understand it, ACQ and AC2 / NON MicroPro was soluble copper - the MicroPro process makes it insoluble and resolves the corrosion issues.
MCA is the same as MicroPro or actually MicroPro uses MCA. I think most of what we have heard in horror level corrosion stories is the old high soluble copper treatment. It washed off very easily. MCA or AC2 / MicroPro does not wash off at all according to the manufacturer. Hence the "green" rating. I probably wouldn't advise using it on a new boat, but I think I'm good for a few more happy years on the water.

As far as quality, I think they call it CCX, one good C grade side and one not so good C side. I was lucky and found two sheets with zero void or knot holes. You can see in one of the pics just how clean it is. I'd say more like a B grade. Not very green color either, looks almost like regular plywood.

 

[wrunner74]

No Title

Just had the old girl out on the Wolf River in Wisconsin yesterday...put in at New London and cruised 30 miles without issue all the way to Fremont and even beyond on one 6 gallon tank of gas. Filled up the spare tank and headed back to New London...on the way, I was on an open stretch of river dong about 27 mph. The thought in my mind was "wow, this old boat just runs great after 42 years". What happened next is every boaters nightmare. There was nothing to be seen ahead but all of a sudden BANG! The boat shuddered as if I hit a brick wall. I killed the throttle and looked back. All the motor covers where all blown off and just hanging there. It looks like someone had stuck a stick of dynamite in the motor. Amazingly it was still running. Panic turned to a sickening felling. I tied up to the nearest dock and started picking through the damage.

It looks like the lower unit hit a submerged log. Must be a telephone pole sized beast just drifting slowly under the surface. The motor popped up and the nose of the top cover hit the board my father had installed years ago for rod holder used for trolling. The impact left a deep mark in the oak board. This popped the top latch and the two wrapper latches and the front panel just plopped off. In a few minutes I had replaced the top cover, re-secured the wrapper but the front cover is now a problem.

The impact broke off the nose of the top cover, including the little plastic pentagon emblem and most of the aluminum that holds the front cover on.
I just found a old top cover on eBay, but I doubt I'll ever find that plastic emblem. Really sucks as I had a picture of the motor just minutes earlier in it's pristine condition. Has this sickening feeling ever haunted you too? Here's some pics of earlier in the day. Not so "cherry" anymore. dammit!

If anyone has a lead on one of those rare pentagon emblems please let me know. Otherwise I will fab a new one from scrap aluminum. I found a site that carries the motor stickers, but the "500" I'd need is included with a pack for $65, yikes...

 

[Watermann]

Yikes that's a nightmare alright, what a horrible pit of the stomach feeling you must of had. It is a testament however of how tough those old motors are. Glad you didn't get stranded though that would've made matters way worse.

 

[DLNorth]

Can't help with the part, but I did a similar thing years ago. 1970 16 SS, I just put on a rebuilt Merc 85 and had it on the lake for the 1st time, went through a channel and felt a "ping", got back to the dock, bent skeg. Still that way many years later.

Dan