Re: Chain Saws
Oregon's anti kick chain is good for those that have not had much experiance with a chain saw. It propably saved a few folks from some nasty cuts. For the person that is used to a chain saw, it cuts way to slow . However most dealers will swap chains for you when you buy your saw if you ask them. Carlton also puts out a antikick chain. So does sthil. The secret to a proper cutting chain is how it is sharpend. If you are cutting wood off of the beach, your chain will not cut properly for long because of the sand and dirt on the log. Or if your cutting trees that have been in a flood or high tide . Or the log has been dragged through the mud. Many times I have seen people move the saw back and forth across the log trying to make it cut. Of coarse this will not help. It is time to sharpen your chain before it heats up and stretches to much and your at the end of the adjustment. To properly sharpen a chain you check all the cutters and find the most damaged tooth. count the number of strokes it takes to bring it back to shape , and file every tooth the same. Why? you ask? Ever been cutting into a log and your saw always goes off at an angle? well that is why the teeth should always be near the same length so the friction is the same all the way through.No teeth longer on one side than the other. next thing is to check your rakers. Lay your raker file ( a small flat file ) on the top of the chain The raker should be just below the thickness of the top of the tooth. This is done so that the whole tooth is biteing the wood not riding on the raker. Your sawdust should be just under a 1/4" wide and at least a 1/4"long not a fine powder. To keep your chain at max cut you should give each tooth three strokes of the file every 2nd or third gas up. AND KEEP YOUR TIP OUT OF THE GROUND!!! That is the basics of a good chain no matter who makes it.
Some good tips here on keeping a chain sharp.
The Oregon chainsets with the 'anti-kickback' design are used by people that don't use a saw very often. If you're uncomfortable around a saw, then this is the chain to use, to have the least amount of a chance you'll end up in the hospital that night.
The Carlton (I know there are others, Stihl -- my logging buddy uses a different one, but can't think of it right now) is offered in many different types.... you can get a chisel chain, semi-chisel chain, you can even get their new MC series chains that are designed for use in smaller saws (they also have an anti-kickback feature with this chainset). They also have a chipper set that will stay sharp longer when cutting abrasive (dirty, sandy) wood. These chainsets will cut faster, longer.
The differences in these chain companies are night and day. The Carlton's rakers are a lower profile than the oregon, allowing it to make bigger shavings than it's big-box-store counterparts. I feel the steel is harder on these, and that's why they stay sharper longer. The loggers chains are not sold in the home depots, sears, etc. You have to go to a specific chainsaw dealer (typically, although, I get mine from the local hardware store that orders it in for me, and they make it up right there.) in order to get these chainsets.
I like them. I'm not going to tell everyone else they need it, but this is just my experience with it. The chain that comes with the saw is usually an oregon chain -- it's cheaper, and the chances of someone getting hurt on it are definately less. It's a good chain to learn on. However, when it comes time to replace the chain, or when you've gained more experience -- if the price is $15 for an oregon, or $20 for a Carlton... try the Carlton. You won't go back.
