Re: cd14 wont run
ArneA,
Your compression is a bit low but you can get the engine to run and your compression values are within 10% of each other.
The motor you have does not have a thermostat, so water is constantly circulating around the water jackets and cooling the motor off. (That is how the motor was designed and there is nothing you can do to prevent this.) So, the engine you have will have a higher tendency to build up carbon and coking on the cylinder head, in the grooves where the pistons rings reside, and in generalize area of the exhaust housing.
Coking of the rings will prevent them from moving freely, so will not seal as well and thus low compression. The rings could be froze in place due to years of harden coke/carbon and thus again prevent free movement of the rings and again low compression. So, a good decarbon treatment with Seafoam or Evinrude(BPR) Engine Tuner is a great idea and make take a couple application. Seafoam and Evinrude's Engine Tuner is cheap enough for a try. The guys are right, it will smoke like a house on fire, so just up date your neighbors...lol. All the smoke is the carbon dissolving and burning away.
Couple of things to consider regarding low compression:
- Most of us don't own mechanic quality compression gauges ( most of get them from Harbor Freights, etc, etc). So, values will vary and technique is important too.
- Try when the engine is cold and give 5 to 6 good long tugs on the rope. Make sure the gauge is secure and snug and not overly tightened. Make sure both plugs are out at the time of compression checking.
Here is a link to a youtube video of someone doing a compression check.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyCw4SiuT2I&feature=fvsr
- Low compression will cause you motor to be hard to start and difficult to low idle.
You should be very sure that you are running this motor on a 16:1 fuel to oil ratio. That is 8 ounce of TCW-3 grade 2 cycle oil per 1 gallon of 87 octane gas. Please don't let any tell you go to 32:1 or 40:1 or 50:1 because today's oil are better. You motor has bushings, so if you don't use the right oil to gas ratio you shorten the motors life and cause excessive wear and thus low compression.
** You stated that you put a new carb on. I am assuming that you put a new carburetor kit with a new style float.**
When you did the carburetor change(kit I assuming), did you
- remove all the old high and low speed needle packing (item #58) and replace with 2 new ones for each needle?(items 59 and 69)
- remove the core/expansion plug (item #24) to make sure that the mixing chamber was free and the three little at it's base was clear and clean. (This step is the one people forget or don't think about and it bites you in the butt sometimes.)
- Blow all the passages with compressed air after the carburetor dip?
Here is a link to electronic parts diagram for your motor.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/377018/37701800001.htm
Here is diagram for the carburetor for your motor, so you can make reference.
Here is a procedure for removing the expansion/core plug for cleaning.
Nonremoval of that core or expansion plug to do a complete carburetor cleaning is probably the one issue that plagues a lot of us. It is also a source of frustration because the trash and goo that is in that pocket can't always be cleaned with carb clean or blown out. In the future if when you get a carburetor kit and do a complete carburetor cleaning, always remove the core or expansion plug and replace with a new plug.
I am going to supply some diagrams for better explanation.
Be very careful if you put the carburetor body in a vise, so you don't damage the linkages or body with the vise.
You can use a punch or a drill to [highlight]carefully[/highlight] puncture a hole so you can remove the core plug. I have used a machine screw to puncture the core plug and used a pair of piers grasp the screw head and pop the core plug out, but be very careful not to go too deep with the drill, punch or screw. You don't want damage the chamber.
Once you have carefully cleaned the chamber, the little holes at the bottom and the needle passage to the mixing chamber then apply the core plug with the convext side up (the rounded side facing the sky).
[highlight]Try not to use wire to scrub out the holes or the needle passage way to the mixing chamber are you could damage or widen the hole and cause mixing problems. Spray carb cleaner or compressed air.[/highlight]
If you do not have a air compressor, then walmart sells compressed air cans with the straws that can be used. $3 or $4 dollars.[highlight]Also remember to disassemble your carb of all plastic and gaskets prior to using carburetor cleaner or dip( that stuff eats gaskets and plastic)[/highlight]. Blow it all out with compressed air.
Then take a wide punch or a 3/8 or 1/2 extension from a socket set (it has a wide flat base) and carefully tap(with a hammer and wide punch or extension piece) the core plug replacement in place. The convex (rounded portion) should be somewhat flat when done.
Well, that's how I do it, maybe someone will have other methods.
